HF-mx5t's 3076 turboed trackday/street toy :)
#41
well, im atleast hoping the osgiken does not detonate as fast as the torsen.. the worm gears inside the torsen were showing signs of damage after 5000 miles of very hard use. and the inside wheel was slipping in 3-4gear turns.. im really looking forward to testing the osg diff. but right now we have about 70cm snow. so it will have to wait a few months
#43
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Just screw some spikes into your tires and go for it! I'll bet you would be the first to race a 400 HP Turbo Miata with a OSGiken diff on ice. It will be groundbreaking or at least somethingbreaking
#44
What are your front brakes?
My understanding of the theory behind the dual chamber manifold is that it's basically like the turbine inducer, but unwrapped from the snail into a straight log. It takes the rapidly moving intake charge and discharges it through a slot to the slow-moving, high-pressure charge in the manifold very efficiently, with little turbulence.
My understanding of the theory behind the dual chamber manifold is that it's basically like the turbine inducer, but unwrapped from the snail into a straight log. It takes the rapidly moving intake charge and discharges it through a slot to the slow-moving, high-pressure charge in the manifold very efficiently, with little turbulence.
#45
What are your front brakes?
My understanding of the theory behind the dual chamber manifold is that it's basically like the turbine inducer, but unwrapped from the snail into a straight log. It takes the rapidly moving intake charge and discharges it through a slot to the slow-moving, high-pressure charge in the manifold very efficiently, with little turbulence.
My understanding of the theory behind the dual chamber manifold is that it's basically like the turbine inducer, but unwrapped from the snail into a straight log. It takes the rapidly moving intake charge and discharges it through a slot to the slow-moving, high-pressure charge in the manifold very efficiently, with little turbulence.
we have buildt similar manifolds on everything from 600whp saab engines for racing, to "mild" streetracing bmw e30's. with very good results.
front brakes are hispec 4pot calipers over something im guessing are the corrado g60 discs. using ferodo pads. mazdaspeed master sylinder and brake booster. goodwin rear disc upgrade. all in all a very confidence inspiring setup. car easily does over 200kph on a very small track and it still feels safe to brake very late.
#46
Mazda MX5
Says your kit uses "D" calipers. Don't think it's the Corrado rotor, as if I recall, that is only 280mm.
Ran the numbers today, and it looks like you're really front-biased, about the same as if you just put the '01-05 Sport brakes on the front, but not the rear. You'd have a lot better brake balance if you either changed to the C calipers with 34.6mm pistons on your current setup, or changed to the actual Sport brakes on the rear, with a 35mm piston. With the larger gain from the Sport booster as discussed by Keith over at M.net recently, you should be okay for effort with the smaller front pistons and have a righteous pedal feel.
Says your kit uses "D" calipers. Don't think it's the Corrado rotor, as if I recall, that is only 280mm.
Ran the numbers today, and it looks like you're really front-biased, about the same as if you just put the '01-05 Sport brakes on the front, but not the rear. You'd have a lot better brake balance if you either changed to the C calipers with 34.6mm pistons on your current setup, or changed to the actual Sport brakes on the rear, with a 35mm piston. With the larger gain from the Sport booster as discussed by Keith over at M.net recently, you should be okay for effort with the smaller front pistons and have a righteous pedal feel.
#48
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What is that sensor using for a reading? aka what is giving it a signal? the brake rotor mounting spots coming within a certain distance?
I am looking into setting up a telemetry setup for my car to get it dialed in (and make traction control) and this would be essential
I am looking into setting up a telemetry setup for my car to get it dialed in (and make traction control) and this would be essential
#53
BTW, just HAVE to share this vid.. friends of mine made a GHETTO dyno, to learn how to tune their even more Ghetto rides.. thing is tho.. they use cheapass solutions. but this **** actually works.. rear mount turbo ls1 in a 200sx s13
YouTube - Driftfun and Haga Homemade Dynotest LS1 s13 2010
heres a vid of the car before turbo
Powerdrift Norwegian License day 2009 on Vimeo
YouTube - Driftfun and Haga Homemade Dynotest LS1 s13 2010
heres a vid of the car before turbo
Powerdrift Norwegian License day 2009 on Vimeo
#56
The dyno is awesome even though many will say it's not safe, etc. I had visions of a similar device once. If you install a flywheel of some type to the drive axle input (output) it will greatly increase the inertial load available to simulate the dyno load. It could even be a complete drivetrain with the transmission (different load gears) and use a flywheel there.
#59
took the engine out today.. dooing som small mods..
brace between the downpipe and transmission.. changing the wastegate to a V band unit. fixing a small leak near the oilpan, general checkup etc..
pics of the downpipe brace..
3mm stainless steel. solid as hell.
also included are some general pics of the engine, and specifically the coolant reroute setup on my engine.
brace between the downpipe and transmission.. changing the wastegate to a V band unit. fixing a small leak near the oilpan, general checkup etc..
pics of the downpipe brace..
3mm stainless steel. solid as hell.
also included are some general pics of the engine, and specifically the coolant reroute setup on my engine.