hi_im_sean

iTrader: (3)

Im just sick of wearing the outside edge of my tires. Im at 4.5/4.75 at the pinch welds, NB hats, and cant go any lower without high centering on the speed bumps in my neighborhood. Well maybe a 1/4", but yea.

hornetball

iTrader: (4)

Tire pressure has a lot to do with this, and not necessarily in a way you might expect. I lowered the pressure I run on my current set of RC-1s by 4-6psi (targeting 30-32 hot) and am seeing much better outside edge wear. Apparently, the 36psi hot I was targeting before kept the contact patch too small. Lowering the pressure increased the contact patch but really didn't increase roll-over much if at all. The trade-off is that on hot days I can see some chunking from higher temps with the lowered pressures. So many factors . . . .

hi_im_sean

iTrader: (3)

There sure are

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

<p>Pretty good so far. I'm still struggling with aluminum.</p><p><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /></p>

sixshooter

iTrader: (12)

That's not proper eye protection.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

<p>I tried it, worked, but doesn't protect from the right UV freqs. My hf helmet broke literally today. So I went out to HD and bought one of the non-auto-darkening shields. I like it a lot.</p>

yank

iTrader: (1)

Sweet! Lets have a welding party. I'll bring my helmet.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

<p>More pics. First actual project too.</p><p><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /></p>

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

<p>More pics. First actual project too.</p>
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hi_im_sean

iTrader: (3)

Why would even attempt sunglasses when the risk is retina damage?

The weld imperfections in the first pic are from impurities in the crack. With TIG welding, clean all the things! Not just the outside.

Not bad otherwise, practice practice.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

<p>Because it was funny, and made me laugh <img alt="" src="https://www.miataturbo.net/images/smilies/smile.gif" title="" /></p><p>Yes, I know. Mostly laziness because that is not a high stress part. I need some better wire wheels for my dremel, and a stiffer brush.</p><p>The settings are all pretty confusing, so more research will help.</p><p>I do have quite a bit of TIG experience, (whole manifold) but now that I can do it on my own time I think things will only get better.</p><p>Next up is a master cylinder brace.</p>

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Last aluminum weld before the argon left. Continuous, 120amp. It finally blew the 15amp outlet fuse right at the end. Need to use a kitchen outlet next time.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

<p>Oops, forgot to post photo yesterday.</p><p><img src="http://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.miataturbo.net-vbulletin/828x1471/80-oykonhflgndxhbqypqqqjmg_914iydbps4snm0q83yzi_w829_ h1471_no_jpeg_a7aef8857549091c1b49795e17793c9ed1b5 ef82.jpg" title="" /><br /><br />&nbsp;</p>

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Fuel pressure question.
<br />I kinda want to tinker with my AFPR and whatnot. How exact is the 43.5 NA regulator. Can I just set my AFPR to 43.5 and not need to retune or anything? I also need to install my DW200 but a good AFPR should keep it at 43.5. Of it changed at all it would be richer anyways right?

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Also, how do you adapt the NA lines to AN. Can you use the same clips that you use on the NB lines?

codrus

IIRC, the NA lines are just hose barbs, right? You use a 3 inch length of hose, an NPT barb, and an NPT-to-AN adapter..

As for retuning, my guess is that the fuel pressure is unlikely to be completely consistent across the range between the two regulators, so it'll vary a bit. Shouldn't be a big deal, just run the autotune algorithm for a bit.

--Ian

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

<p>Well ****, if I'm not AN from the hardline no point in going an at all to the fuel rail. Just need an NPT-an for my fuel rail adapter. Need to see what fittings are on the regulator I got.</p>

hi_im_sean

iTrader: (3)

Only other options are to flare(unlikely to succeed) it or braze a fitting on.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

<p>Thats stupid. Are the NB fuel lines routed the same?</p>

codrus

What do you mean 'routed the same' ?

NB is non-return, so the fuel line routing is obviously quite different. They use GM "push-on" quick-disconnects, which is basically a hard line with a tall ridge at the end. The fittings have a plastic insert that slides over the ridge and then clicks into place, you get them off with a special tool that slides over the hard line and then goes underneath the plastic retainer to release it.

If you really want to get rid of the barbs, it might be possible to put an NB fuel pump bracket thingey into an NA fuel tank.

--Ian