Aidan's loose oily bunghole actually runs a track lap
10-07-2015, 06:46 PM
#4441
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I'm going to talk to my landlord. He expressed interest in the compressor when he picked it up and moved it to my new house. Maybe I can trade for one of his smaller ones.
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10-07-2015, 06:59 PM
#4442
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Its says right on the name plate "full load amps-22" Being a compressor, it shouldn't be running at full load all the time. Plug the bitch in and turn it on. If it makes it past inrush, youll be fine IMO.
Do you not have a clamp on ammeter?
Do you not have a clamp on ammeter?
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10-07-2015, 07:01 PM
#4443
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False. It says FL Amps. Now to some measly electrical engineer like me that means nothing 
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Plug the bitch in was #1 on my list. I need to rewire the plug though.
Deezums talked about blowing caps though.
.Plug the bitch in was #1 on my list. I need to rewire the plug though.
Deezums talked about blowing caps though.
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10-07-2015, 07:09 PM
#4447
You have a voltmeter? Just check the voltage is in spec at all times while it's working. The clamp would be valuable if you don't trust the breaker.
The compressor I was dealing with would drop under 200v occasionally, which apparently is bad on the start capacitor. It would randomly pop the breaker, start and run fine, or sound like a box of rocks failing to turn over before eventually popping the breaker.
The windings on the same motor blew up, possibly from running full current through it while it wasn't moving. It sounded the same as failed start capacitors when it finally died, except a new capacitor didn't work then.
Either it was a **** motor to begin with, the first failing capacitor damaged the windings, or it was the low starting voltage. I don't know, but I blame the voltage for part of it.
Regardless, there's an expensive motor on larger breaker now. It works, though the compressor is falling apart around it lol
The compressor I was dealing with would drop under 200v occasionally, which apparently is bad on the start capacitor. It would randomly pop the breaker, start and run fine, or sound like a box of rocks failing to turn over before eventually popping the breaker.
The windings on the same motor blew up, possibly from running full current through it while it wasn't moving. It sounded the same as failed start capacitors when it finally died, except a new capacitor didn't work then.
Either it was a **** motor to begin with, the first failing capacitor damaged the windings, or it was the low starting voltage. I don't know, but I blame the voltage for part of it.
Regardless, there's an expensive motor on larger breaker now. It works, though the compressor is falling apart around it lol
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10-07-2015, 07:10 PM
#4448
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I have a little volt meter. Guess I can open up the panel and measure. 2 110v lines right? Or do they merge into one 220v line. I'll take pictures when I'm home.
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10-07-2015, 07:12 PM
#4449
The two good HF compressors, the oiled compressor ones, have made in italy pumps, made in the USA tanks, and typically Baldor motors. But the motor brand seems to change occasionally. This is why the HF 60gal compressor costs twice as much as the Husky and Kobalt branded ones, and even more than the cheapest IR one.
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10-07-2015, 07:15 PM
#4450
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I think 10% below nominal is max acceptable, so that would be 207 VAC. You dont need a clamp on ammeter, just surprised you dont have one. If its drawing to much current, you will measure that as a voltage drop with you multimeter.
I thought under voltage is hard on the run capacitor? Power factor and whatnot.
I thought under voltage is hard on the run capacitor? Power factor and whatnot.
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10-07-2015, 07:27 PM
#4459
I think 10% below nominal is max acceptable, so that would be 207 VAC. You dont need a clamp on ammeter, just surprised you dont have one. If its drawing to much current, you will measure that as a voltage drop with you multimeter.
I thought under voltage is hard on the run capacitor? Power factor and whatnot.
I thought under voltage is hard on the run capacitor? Power factor and whatnot.
I did not know that about the harbor freight compressors, if I ever need a bigger one I'll have to remember that.
Three taps for residential, all off the same transformer. Two hots and the neutral.
Three phase comes with three transformers, all of their own.
Residential alternates the phase your neighbors transformers tap from, for balancing. Your breaker panel alternates poles of the single transformer, and occasionally taps two for 220V. Each line sees half the amperage, so a 20A double is two 10A singles.
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