Aidan's loose oily bunghole actually runs a track lap
#8621
Excellent fabwork as always. I wish I could get a welder to tinker with.
Design questions:
1) Could the ends have been tapped for NPT/AN adapters or was weld on bungs utilized to reduce number of potential leak points?
2) Would it be tricky to weld a 90° angle stock across the length of the rail, and notched out locations for the valve cover and drilled holes in places?
3) Will this be hard anodized if using e85? I think that's one of the reasons why the FM rails are compatible in the first place. (I can't open the posted link on work computer)
4) Can I get an ABS keychain? <3 <3
Design questions:
1) Could the ends have been tapped for NPT/AN adapters or was weld on bungs utilized to reduce number of potential leak points?
2) Would it be tricky to weld a 90° angle stock across the length of the rail, and notched out locations for the valve cover and drilled holes in places?
3) Will this be hard anodized if using e85? I think that's one of the reasons why the FM rails are compatible in the first place. (I can't open the posted link on work computer)
4) Can I get an ABS keychain? <3 <3
#8622
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1) ORB is supposed to be cut with a form tool, and that is $$$$, I dislike NPT. I get the weld bungs off ebay for like $3 a piece. Easy button.
2), the rail rides so close to the bolts that there is no room for angle stock like you are suggesting, the socket head bolt needs to basically be touching the fuel rail, I had to grind it out actually. If you look at the AN rails (mtuned/fm) they actually have the bolt cutout into the rail.
3) I'd like to, and if I end up figuring out a good place that can do it I will pull it off and have it done. The pdf basically says e85 itself is not corrosive, but if you let it sit and suck up moisture then it can develop acids. They pulled a aluminum fuel rail that had been in use for 3 years and it looked good as new inside. I will rarely be using e85, and when i do it will come from the only station in portland that carries it, so it gets cycled all the time.
4) Yes. Sean is taking care of those.
2), the rail rides so close to the bolts that there is no room for angle stock like you are suggesting, the socket head bolt needs to basically be touching the fuel rail, I had to grind it out actually. If you look at the AN rails (mtuned/fm) they actually have the bolt cutout into the rail.
3) I'd like to, and if I end up figuring out a good place that can do it I will pull it off and have it done. The pdf basically says e85 itself is not corrosive, but if you let it sit and suck up moisture then it can develop acids. They pulled a aluminum fuel rail that had been in use for 3 years and it looked good as new inside. I will rarely be using e85, and when i do it will come from the only station in portland that carries it, so it gets cycled all the time.
4) Yes. Sean is taking care of those.
#8623
I'd only bother on roll tapping the ORB fitting if you were running them for hydraulics and were actually going to run at 200 bar. A fuel system running at 4 bar isnt going to make cut tap threads fail.
I think you're too concerned about the wrong bits failing and not concerned enough about the right bits failing.
I think you're too concerned about the wrong bits failing and not concerned enough about the right bits failing.
#8629
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Hence the need for the ******* form tool. Hence the need for welded on fittings.
I am king of cheap.
Drain line built. I'm totally spoiled by having 2 spare motors. One for in the spare shell mock-up, and the other for in the garage mock-up
Got a bung welded on. Went way better than expected.
Might do a temp sensor bung? But I already have sandwich plate temp sensor so probably will skip that one.
I am king of cheap.
Drain line built. I'm totally spoiled by having 2 spare motors. One for in the spare shell mock-up, and the other for in the garage mock-up
Got a bung welded on. Went way better than expected.
Might do a temp sensor bung? But I already have sandwich plate temp sensor so probably will skip that one.
#8633
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intake is out of my old setup. I think it will fit on the new setup. it goes where the headlight used to be.
I also had to redo the oil drain, was about half an inch too short on the first try. Oh well.
Water lines are going to be super short. I chopped down my water return even further and put another 6AN fitting on it.
I'm trying to decide if I want to chop up my shelf to be able to fit the hood pipe ahead of time. While the motor is out I could do a clean cut and have an easy route up.
For the record I will run a downpipe 95% of the time but v-bands are awesome, and with one bolt on the downpipe and a hood swap i can be shooting flames over the windshield.
I also had to redo the oil drain, was about half an inch too short on the first try. Oh well.
Water lines are going to be super short. I chopped down my water return even further and put another 6AN fitting on it.
I'm trying to decide if I want to chop up my shelf to be able to fit the hood pipe ahead of time. While the motor is out I could do a clean cut and have an easy route up.
For the record I will run a downpipe 95% of the time but v-bands are awesome, and with one bolt on the downpipe and a hood swap i can be shooting flames over the windshield.
#8635
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Exactly. So I think I'm going to at least try and make it fit right now. If I cut and reweled and paint it will be so much nicer now than if I try and do it with the motor in the car.
#8636
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245s on 9s fit a little tighter up front. Had to pull on the fender a bit, and it contacts the sway bar at full lock. I also need to reroute my brake ducting. Advice on that is welcome.
More fuel line work. Rivnuts hold down the fuel lab filter, short feed line goes to it, and then the 115* fitting sends the line back to the fuel rail.
More fuel line work. Rivnuts hold down the fuel lab filter, short feed line goes to it, and then the 115* fitting sends the line back to the fuel rail.
#8637
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Afternoon project was the hood. Got the hood vent hole cut, drilled. Aero catch holes cut.
Tomorrow will be finishing up the hood, need to drill aero catch holes. And also get a head in the engine bay to pressure test the fuel rail.
I'm almost running out of things to do. Might drop the diff and refill/reseal it. Motor is supposed to be done this week.
Tomorrow will be finishing up the hood, need to drill aero catch holes. And also get a head in the engine bay to pressure test the fuel rail.
I'm almost running out of things to do. Might drop the diff and refill/reseal it. Motor is supposed to be done this week.