Leafy

iTrader: (1)

IDK about you but I run 50psi base pressure so if I did ever man up and run ALLOFIT that would be like 80psi of fuel pressure. Thats still like 18A. I was never concerned with the actual wire, just the terminals in the connectors.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Do we trust mazda to use terminals that match the capacity of the wire?

What about using both terminals for power and grounding to the actual fuel pump assembly inside the tank?

codrus

ALLOFIT is only 30 psi? Pfah!

--Ian

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Plans for a holset here. Allofit=like 50psi.

deezums

iTrader: (3)

What if...

1/8-1/4NPT pipe bungs welded and epoxied sealed, then matching plastic NPT plugs, drilled for brass machine screws.

I make 1/8 NPT weld bungs out of flange nuts, drilled and tapped. Cheap and home depot racing has everything...

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

I'm confused how that makes an electrical connection.

codrus

You could always hijack the gauge sender wires and run power across those too. You don't need a fuel gauge, right?

--Ian

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

It crossed my mind.

deezums

iTrader: (3)

Well, you weld the NPT bung on the panel there, then the plastic NPT pipe plug is an insulator.

If it were me, I'd drill and tap the center of the pipe plug for a 6-32 brass machine screw, then use ring terminals soldered onto my fuel pump wires. I'd attach the ring terminals on the brass allthread or cut off bolt...

Kinda like the through panel terminal things you buy, but with NPT seal and all diy.

codrus

Weld a sump onto the bottom of the tank and gravity drain into a big-*** external pump?

--Ian

codrus

I think you're probably overthinking it.



--Ian

patsmx5

iTrader: (16)

Bad idea. Connections inside the tank are brass terminals that can not spark. using a steel plate (the pump housing piece) can spark.

deezums

iTrader: (3)

The wire will be alright being ran close to it's limit, the terminals connecting the wires might not be as up to the task.

I wish I had an extra fuel pump connector, I've got a massive 50A 12V power supply. I'll see when the terminals melt.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Good call. Learn something new every day.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Hmmm, maybe I should send you one.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Oh and today I played around with timing maps. And mine is pretty much identical to DIYAutotunes 1.6 base map. So I'm comfortable running that for now. Called around and found a load bearing dyno, so I will be going there after I re-gap the plugs, install the fuel pump, regulator, and flex fuel sensor, and continue reading about tuning timing. This has been the most help so far.

https://www.miataturbo.net/ecus-tuni...actices-56374/

Does fuel need to be adjusted with timing? Or will it be 11.5AFR at 10* BTDC and 20* BTDC?

I want to tune pump, then e85. Then test the flex capabilities, and then dyno tune for spark.

I think my goal is going to be a nice 180hp tune for track season next year. I'm going to be on better tires, brakes, and I like to think I have improved as a driver a little bit.

patsmx5

iTrader: (16)

In my experience once your'e close to MBT they don't change much, but when you're way off, you'll have to start adding fuel as you add timing until you get somewhat close to MBT.

EDIT: Deleted some of that, didn't make sense. Hmm...

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Interesting. So I may have to slightly adjust but if its close I should be fine? I can always retune fuel again on the street.

codrus

My approach is to tune fuel ahead of the time on the street with the wideband, then do the timing on the dyno. I keep an eye on the fuel, but I don't mess with it unless it starts going outside of a range I'm comfortable with, or it pings and I want to see if I can fix it with a bit more fuel. Once you've found MBT you can go retune the fuel on the street afterwards if you want to.

One of the reasons why I've never messed with water/methanol injection is that supposedly it and the fuel affect each other, so it takes a bunch of back-and-forth tuning to get it right.

BTW, a load-holding dyno offers what appears to be an appealing on-the-surface idea of tuning individual cells by telling the dyno to hold (say) 5500 RPM and setting the boost controller to the desired MAP value, then fiddling the advance up and down until you maximize the power. I say on the surface because this is very heat-intensive on the motor, and (I'm told) it will ping with much less timing than it would even when running in that cell on the track.

--Ian

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

I'm ok with running it at the extreme. I've also heard the trans takes the most heat out of all of it.