hrk

iTrader: (6)

I thought it would be good to document the build for the Locost 7 here.
Some background of the car.
The frame started it's life as former CMC build frame in 2004, first time on the track -05 July, turboed in 07, retired from wheel to wheel racing in -08, back to track 2011 inspired by new Chase the Dragon Hillclimb and had various autocross and time tral events since. I ran 1.32.4 in Road Atlanta with 12 psi boost.


Thank you Lucas Coleman for the photo

Current junkyard motor gave up with the help of malfunctioning boost control and quite a few events. #2 rod appears to be the culprit, uneducated quess judging from the holes in the block and pan...

The idea all along was build the auxiliary systems first and then bring the build motor, so I wouldn't be risking expensive parts for cooling, ECU or oiling failures. Done failures with all those, so I guess I should start with the motor then.

I currently have 01 VVT motor in pieces in the garage, Wiseco -4 cc 84.5 mm pistons, Belfab rods, ARP studs for mains and head and JayL:s former flipside manifold with ridiculously large throttle body. LS truck coils are there for ignition and boundary oil pump should be coming.

Motor from junkyard



Manifold: Thanks Zabak and JayL for photo as well



Throttle body:


Does anyone have an idea of wiring diagram of Infinity Q35 throttle body?
There are 5 wires coming out from TB sensor, colors as shown in the photo.

hrk

iTrader: (6)

01 head stock 122,000 miles from automatic
Head height 134 mm
intake 112 cc
combustion 53 cc
exhaust 84 cc slight leak from valves.

Combustion chamber


Exhaust volume, notice unshrouded -99 head on the backround for porting ideas.

Fireindc

iTrader: (13)

Well ****, this thing is sick. Any more pics or details on the build? Where can i buy a frame?

soviet

iTrader: (10)

Big boner for this build

Zabac

iTrader: (39)

Thanks for posting the build HRK.
Can't wait to see the numbers you end up with.

hrk

iTrader: (6)

This company I bought the frame is no longer in business, keep an eye out on locostusa.com, there are lots of builds for sale in various states (of build).

Frame, notice XR4Ti on the background:


Photos salvaged from lost website:
HeikkiCMC7 Photos by HeikkiCar | Photobucket

And since this is a turbo forum, first iteration of turbocharging:


This one overheated the motor once redflag was thrown and the car needed to be stopped from full song for extended period of time. The fan was not powerful enough to cool it down without the airflow from outside.

More photos from initial turbo install:
TURBO Photos by HeikkiCar | Photobucket

hrk

iTrader: (6)

The Wiseco pistons and pins are weighed, difference of 0.4 gr is evened out to lightest one which was 317.7 gr.

The engine guru I have been talking to suggests that engine could benefit from filling the coolant chamber partially for extra support after boring the block 1.5 mm.
However I have not seen anyone here actually doing that. Searches have shown thin walls for bigger 85.5 mm bores close to the head. This filler would be up to waterpump using similar filler as Moroso Engine Block filler, so the cooling should not be compromised much. I would do it after block was cleaned, but before it was bored, so the boring would have more solid block, at least in theory.

Any thoughts?

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

It sounds like he's suggesting a "block guard" or block girdle. Its becoming popular on the 400+ ecotecs and D-series hondas.

turbofan

iTrader: (1)

ha! XR4Ti. I've owned two. Fun cars. Soooooo much fun.

In fact, that looks like a TBird or SVO intercooler on that turbo setup you pictured.

Need new thread on the Merkur, or link to what you've got done to it. Miss mine regularly.

RyanRaduechel

iTrader: (10)

Block guards are completely different. Block guards are used in open deck engines, it's a metal piece that is installed to form a "closed deck."

Block filler is more like cement, comes in a powder for, you mix it with water and pour it down the water jackets.

muoto

Awesome project! And props for the Finnish flag

hrk

iTrader: (6)

Merkur was sold in 2005, but it still runs in autocrosses occasionally here.
I did only one track day on Road Atlanta in -04 and it was quite horrible.
Sorry no threads or many photos of this car.

Intercooler in pictured -07 setup was modified from RX-7 II gen. Made 208 hp on Dynojet dyno with 8 psi spring in wastegate and some boost creep.

turbofan

iTrader: (1)

haha I can't imagine it was excellent on the track. I bought mine for nothing, cobbled together a big intercooler setup and turned the boost up. blew it up. I went everywhere sideways on junkyard tires. squishy suspension but was a ton of fun in high school!

Miater

I would say fill it first and then machine.

Calling Bogus.

hrk

iTrader: (6)

Some progress,

Lower end is being line honed, bored, filled with filler up to water pump and honed to 0.0035" piston clearance with torque plate on and main caps torqued.

Head is being ported and goes for valve seat machining next. The guides were surprisingly good and I won't change them this time around.

sixshooter

iTrader: (12)

Let me know if you ever decide to sell it. Locost with turbo Miata power has been on my mind for a few years. Good luck with the build.

hrk

iTrader: (6)

Thanks Sixshooter, but I cannot imagine anything I could replace this with. Yes, there are much faster cars and more fun and cheaper cars, but the combination is hard to beat.

Anyway, a little update, +1 Supertech valves SS intake and Inconel exhaust have been ordered, porting is mostly done, need to get the seats in the head ground for the new valves.

hrk

iTrader: (6)

Some updates, the block is back from being filled, line honed, decked and bored for Wiseco pistons. Rotating assembly is being balanced and head is getting the seats done for new valves.

I ordered Ford Zetec shimless lifter for test fit. I wanted to see how it would work and there might be a problem with longer valves from Supertech, but we will see once the seat are finished and I have the lifter in hand. Cams are going to be stock, but I'd like to have stiffer springs to avoid floating. I have the Volvo ones but they measured 80 lbs pressure at 1.550" and they are listed at 66 lbs at 1.570". Stock ones were 46 lbs at 1.550". We shall see what installed height ends up being.

hrk

iTrader: (6)

Well,
I guess I spent my time building the engine instead of updating this thread.

Some highlights:
Engine ran well 332 hp 325 tq with now sold Garret 2560 turbo.
Dyno thread
https://www.miataturbo.net/megasquir...s3x-%3D-73409/

June Dragon Hillclimb
https://www.miataturbo.net/local-mee...llclimb-73330/

August Dragon Hillclimb
https://www.miataturbo.net/local-mee...g-3-4-a-73705/

Barber Time Trial event
https://www.miataturbo.net/local-mee...weekend-74674/

Hillclimbs I got overall 1st on both times, at Barber won the class and was fastest in the rungroup but I lost to formulas and CSR. Downforce and smooth course helps them.

I broke 5-speed transmission again, this one had < 60 minutes lifetime in the car. Still have couple spares and one working one back in the car so it is all good for now, and excuse for more power...

Upgrading turbo to 6758 EFR and downpipe and exhaust to 4".

Would there be any recommendations on reasonably lightweight muffler with 4" inlet and outlet, quiet sound and minimal backpressure?

I did like my previous Raptor for sound, if that gives an idea of noise.

Thanks

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

On the muffler, I would probably make my own. Its really not that hard, buy the packing form burns and make the biggest casing you can fit in the car. Preferably multiple of different lengths. Its honestly not that hard, just time consuming. Otherwise stick some dynomaxx racing bullets of various lengths in there and use a borla if thats too loud.

With the EFR, I'm guessing you're going to want to get the treadstone vband that lets you go straight to 3.5" pipe then taper.