hustler's "driver shame" thread
06-03-2010, 05:13 PM
#762
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I've been burning through hubs ever since putting on r-comps and at $40 each for the hardening and heat treating I couldn't deny it.
So you have no experience with them?
ART seems to be genuinely concerned with the longevity of these so my fingers are crossed. I'm still taking extra hubs to the track just in case.
So you have no experience with them?
ART seems to be genuinely concerned with the longevity of these so my fingers are crossed. I'm still taking extra hubs to the track just in case.
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06-03-2010, 07:52 PM
#766
Tour de Franzia
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Erroneously correct me again and I'll ban you. Final warning.
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06-03-2010, 08:05 PM
#767
Okay pal or would you rather I refer to you as sport?? LOL jk....now I will correct you. Because my previous post was just a way to make your bearings last...it was a how to not a correction. LOL
As far as correcting on znut. I did stand corrected, and understand and respect your cross stance with him.
As far as correcting on znut. I did stand corrected, and understand and respect your cross stance with him.
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06-13-2010, 09:35 AM
#769
Tour de Franzia
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The car worked right at Hallett. I put in a different oil cooler which I scored from my buddy Matt. Oil temps were about 240* in 92* ambient using a 2.5" brake duct to feed the cooler.
The Hawk DTC-60's are awesome. Caliper temps are 390* and the pedal engagement takes a little getting used to, you have to roll to brake pressure more than I'm accustomed to, but after the 2nd session it made sense and I was fine. Pedal force is light, torque is easy to manage...I had very few lock-ups and i was pushing it desperately looking for 1:00:19 which I did not get. I decided to not put the 60's on the rear because I had so much XP12 material left, so I ran them. Even with a good bedding with lots of "blueness" on the rotor, I was still overheating them all day. I'm going to try ducting the rear brakes in some capacity so i can run more brake than I did after the first session.
The Racing Brake front rotors are awesome. The rotors don't look especially smooth, but to the touch they are very flat. There are also no heat-checks in the rotors. If these continue to performs like this, I will buy them again...maybe even considering the expensive CGI material.
My front outside tire is eaten up BAD because there are several places that corners exit downhill...time to get this car corner balanced.
For anyone who's never been to Hallett, the run from 3-4-5-6 is awesome with power and grip. I realized that I'm not pushing these tires, so I turned the wick up in session 3 and it started raining, lol. Then in session 4, I realized what I've been missing and that I'm basically not using the tires...then suddenly I went under the SM record. Time to turn the wick up.
The Hawk DTC-60's are awesome. Caliper temps are 390* and the pedal engagement takes a little getting used to, you have to roll to brake pressure more than I'm accustomed to, but after the 2nd session it made sense and I was fine. Pedal force is light, torque is easy to manage...I had very few lock-ups and i was pushing it desperately looking for 1:00:19 which I did not get. I decided to not put the 60's on the rear because I had so much XP12 material left, so I ran them. Even with a good bedding with lots of "blueness" on the rotor, I was still overheating them all day. I'm going to try ducting the rear brakes in some capacity so i can run more brake than I did after the first session.
The Racing Brake front rotors are awesome. The rotors don't look especially smooth, but to the touch they are very flat. There are also no heat-checks in the rotors. If these continue to performs like this, I will buy them again...maybe even considering the expensive CGI material.
My front outside tire is eaten up BAD because there are several places that corners exit downhill...time to get this car corner balanced.
For anyone who's never been to Hallett, the run from 3-4-5-6 is awesome with power and grip. I realized that I'm not pushing these tires, so I turned the wick up in session 3 and it started raining, lol. Then in session 4, I realized what I've been missing and that I'm basically not using the tires...then suddenly I went under the SM record. Time to turn the wick up.
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06-13-2010, 10:37 AM
#771
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Oh and BTW...I have no AC. Suddenly the air through the blower is really, really, really hot...probably from the extractor hood. lol I poured sweat 4-hours each way.
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06-13-2010, 11:06 AM
#775
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It drops to zero, then back. When I reduce lateral g-loading, then it goes again. This only happens when I'm over 1-g though according to the butt accelerometer.
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06-13-2010, 11:12 AM
#776
mkturbo.com
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Ok, that is a slightly different problem then my 92 DD is having. On hard left turns its power drops and then comes back once I straighten out. Allthough the 92 has 302k miles on it so I just don't take hard left turns.
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06-13-2010, 11:29 AM
#780
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This happened with an FSAE I got to mess with once. It was actually the ******* ECU diagnostic port brushing the tube frame. Which to this day makes no sense to me, but there you have it. It was basically resetting the ECU on hard left turns.
Forgive the ignorance, but the tach takes signal from the ignition on these cars right? As opposed to direct from a CAS type sensor? OR is it a unique setup with the 99 motor in the NA chassis?
Reason I ask is that it might help narrow down the fualt location.
If the tach is getting a signal right off a CAS, then chances are that you have a bit of insulation on the tach signal wire rubbed of on the firewall, which is grounding the CAS and screwing with its signal, and subsequently messing with your spark as well.
If your tach basically gets signal from say a coil negative side, then you probably have some fuckup from the CAS to the igntion, and not a case of insulation rubbing on the firewall.
My .12.
Forgive the ignorance, but the tach takes signal from the ignition on these cars right? As opposed to direct from a CAS type sensor? OR is it a unique setup with the 99 motor in the NA chassis?
Reason I ask is that it might help narrow down the fualt location.
If the tach is getting a signal right off a CAS, then chances are that you have a bit of insulation on the tach signal wire rubbed of on the firewall, which is grounding the CAS and screwing with its signal, and subsequently messing with your spark as well.
If your tach basically gets signal from say a coil negative side, then you probably have some fuckup from the CAS to the igntion, and not a case of insulation rubbing on the firewall.
My .12.
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