hustler's "driver shame" thread
09-28-2011, 09:33 AM
#1101
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not trying to climb up your jock strap or anything... but both your car and your driving look blisteringly fast judging from that video. I wouldn't be ashamed to post video's of both skill and speed 50% of what you're accomplishing in that video. damn good.
As for the numbers on the street... I feel ya it does make me feel sorta poseur when i drive around with numbers still on teh car from the last event, but **** it. It's different when you can walk the walk and talk the talk. At this point I'd say you've got nothing to prove and no one to impress.
The performance speaks for itself.
As for the numbers on the street... I feel ya it does make me feel sorta poseur when i drive around with numbers still on teh car from the last event, but **** it. It's different when you can walk the walk and talk the talk. At this point I'd say you've got nothing to prove and no one to impress.
The performance speaks for itself.
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09-28-2011, 09:37 AM
#1102
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Not at Hallett. I backspaced to get a clean lap. Spoolin is quicker than me but he and I do a pretty good job of keeping up with the TTA Vettes, and I'm talking about seasoned drivers, on Hoosiers, who run NASA all year long and know every track.
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10-12-2011, 01:59 PM
#1105
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Do I "need" a dual feed rail? I have the M-Tuned rail on there and I'm converting fuel lines from rubber to SS, it would save me a lot of cash.
I'm also cleaning up all the wiring in under the hood while the head is off and a few other little things. I'm giving serious consideration to "getting myself up to speed" on electronics and putting everything on a switch panel in the glove box with bulk-head mil-spec wiring because the wires in this car are 22-years old.
I'm also cleaning up all the wiring in under the hood while the head is off and a few other little things. I'm giving serious consideration to "getting myself up to speed" on electronics and putting everything on a switch panel in the glove box with bulk-head mil-spec wiring because the wires in this car are 22-years old.
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10-12-2011, 06:22 PM
#1110
Don't do braided stainless lines. My hoses and fittings guy carries an industrial textile braided line that is lighter, gasoline safe, alcohol safe, massive pressure safe, uses standard fittings and is cheaper than any stainless line you would actually want to run. Plus it doesn't look like ricer stainless line train wreckage, and it won't rub a hole in anything it touches. I do shrink a piece of heat shrink tubing over it anywhere that I'm worried about it touching something, but it's pretty tough, and I doubt it's really necessary.
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10-12-2011, 06:53 PM
#1111
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Don't do braided stainless lines. My hoses and fittings guy carries an industrial textile braided line that is lighter, gasoline safe, alcohol safe, massive pressure safe, uses standard fittings and is cheaper than any stainless line you would actually want to run. Plus it doesn't look like ricer stainless line train wreckage, and it won't rub a hole in anything it touches. I do shrink a piece of heat shrink tubing over it anywhere that I'm worried about it touching something, but it's pretty tough, and I doubt it's really necessary.
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10-12-2011, 07:04 PM
#1112
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10-12-2011, 10:03 PM
#1113
Jeez are you always this lazy. These are well known products like Earl ultraflex something, Aeroquip Starlite etc. The nicest products like these have a kevlar outer braid and are pretty spendy they are light though. Some also require specialized hose connectors at least I think the Aeroquip stuff did. Just go to JEGS or summit racing etc and search. There are plenty of cheaper brands too.
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10-12-2011, 10:04 PM
#1114
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I see nothing concerning other than great pistons, no scores in the piston walls, and the valves look fine except for an intake valve on #3. This is after 20k miles and ~70 hours on the track.
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10-12-2011, 10:32 PM
#1118
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Great question, I'm guessing the valves are burn around the seats. What do you guys think about the coloring on the valves? Why does carbon build up on the exhaust valves but not the intake? What are your thoughts on converting to SS or Inco valves after looking at these pics?
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10-12-2011, 10:47 PM
#1119
Looking at the color of the valves. If we evaluate the valves like we would spark plugs, then the golden brown valves should be the ones that are the coolest of the bunch correct??? with white burning too hot. Looking at the valves I would say there is definite cooling gradient from one end of the motor to the other.
Almost looks like cyl 2 and 3 could be running a bit lean
Edit: one of the cylinders looks like it has a lot more gunk around the intake valves than the others. Leaking valve seal creating carbon deposit so vale doesn't close???
Consider this thinking out loud.
Almost looks like cyl 2 and 3 could be running a bit lean
Edit: one of the cylinders looks like it has a lot more gunk around the intake valves than the others. Leaking valve seal creating carbon deposit so vale doesn't close???
Consider this thinking out loud.
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10-12-2011, 10:52 PM
#1120
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https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...6&d=1318471421
hmmmm, head gasket leak between cylinders? There is a much more significant ring from the gasket around #4. When I loosened the studs if felt like studs in the same area were looser than the others. I'd hate for this to be a head-torque issue.
hmmmm, head gasket leak between cylinders? There is a much more significant ring from the gasket around #4. When I loosened the studs if felt like studs in the same area were looser than the others. I'd hate for this to be a head-torque issue.
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