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So TK and I looked at the sync loss issue yesterday. Took it out for a test drive on the same route as Tuesday night and it utterly failed to reproduce the problem. Grr.
While fiddling with it in the garage it did generate one or two sync losses which we caught on the composite log. Looking at it, the single cam pulse is missing in the 4-2-4-1 pattern, so I'm probably going to chalk this one up as yet another infamous NB1 cam sensor failure. It's a strange one though, AFAIK usually those are heat-related and the drive on Tuesday wasn't out of the ordinary in that regard.
Also got around to putting in one of the brake pressure sensors I've had sitting around for ages.
Basically this is monitoring pressure in the front circuit coming off the master cylinder, and is intended to be a permanent install, for track data logging/analysis purposes. I have a second one two which I'm going to temporarily install in other places in the system to get some info on exactly what the ABS, prop valve, etc are doing, but that'll have to wait for another day. The Eastwood vise-mounted brake flaring tool is awesome, BTW.
Took it out for a brief test, pushed it into ABS to see what it did:
Looks pretty good. Red line is brake pressure, blue is longitudinal acceleration, yellow is TPS, and purple is speed. You can see a linear relationship between braking gees and brake pedal force until around 110 bar in the brake system when the ABS kicks in. Since I'm measuring it on the output of the master cylinder, this is the pedal pressure, input to the ABS system. The output is seeing lower pressure, which is why the braking gees stop rising. I dunno if the slight drop is due to the ABS or a bump in the road or what.
New trailer for the Miata, it's a 24 foot TPD triple axle. Weighs 3900 pounds empty, which is about double the weight of the open trailer. I've been looking for one for a while, this one showed up in San Diego on Craigslist, and I managed to get a deposit down before the long line of other people who wanted it. Made a lightning trip down there Thursday morning with the truck. The Duramax is quite happy doing 70 up the grapevine pulling it, although mpg drops to about 10-11 from the 13 it normally gets.
I kind of want to pick up an arduino and a big backlit LCD. And do a DIY racepak. Analog inputs would be nice for something like the fuel level sensor/turn signals.
The one that's online is a bit down-rev at this point, TK and I have been hacking on it independently and not doing a very good job of integrating things and updating the git repository.
I kind of want to pick up an arduino and a big backlit LCD. And do a DIY racepak. Analog inputs would be nice for something like the fuel level sensor/turn signals.
Or the easy button is racepak IQ3.
Going to pull your code and take a look at it.
Dash2 Pro is a pretty sweet option now thanks to Brexit.
I kind of want to pick up an arduino and a big backlit LCD. And do a DIY racepak. Analog inputs would be nice for something like the fuel level sensor/turn signals.
:
Here's my in-progress MS3-Pro+Arduino+Twin OLED (128x64) gauge-mod.
I prefer OLEDs since they're easier to read with the top down.
Previously I had a PLX Devices LCD display and with the top down during the day, the only colour combination I could see in most situations was white text on a black background. So with all the sexy colours available, and the ability to display 128x128 bit graphics, I only ever used the 4-line mode in black and white.
FYI: Those temperatures are in Degrees.
Arduino DUE + CAN transceiver (for MS3-Pro CAN 11-bit messages)
3-lines/values per gauge 4-lines/values per display Peak Values
Pushbutton to control OLED displays - 3 lines per display (default), 4 lines per display, peak values (holding longer than 2 seconds resets peaks to zero)
Arduino and Sensor box (containing TinyIOx board and Oil Pressure, Oil Temperature, IAT inputs to MS3-Pro) will be housed in the glovebox (this weekend's job).
Dash2 Pro is a pretty sweet option now thanks to Brexit.
What I really like about the iq3s is the built in CAN. And the street features. Turn signals, headlight indicators, parking brake indicators. Etc.
Originally Posted by Lokiel
Here's my in-progress MS3-Pro+Arduino+Twin OLED (128x64) gauge-mod.
I prefer OLEDs since they're easier to read with the top down.
Previously I had a PLX Devices LCD display and with the top down during the day, the only colour combination I could see in most situations was white text on a black background. So with all the sexy colours available, and the ability to display 128x128 bit graphics, I only ever used the 4-line mode in black and white.
FYI: Those temperatures are in Degrees.
Arduino DUE + CAN transceiver (for MS3-Pro CAN 11-bit messages)
3-lines/values per gauge 4-lines/values per display Peak Values
Pushbutton to control OLED displays - 3 lines per display (default), 4 lines per display, peak values (holding longer than 2 seconds resets peaks to zero)
Arduino and Sensor box (containing TinyIOx board and Oil Pressure, Oil Temperature, IAT inputs to MS3-Pro) will be housed in the glovebox (this weekend's job).
What I really like about the iq3s is the built in CAN. And the street features. Turn signals, headlight indicators, parking brake indicators. Etc.
What I like about the DASH2 Pro is the built in CAN and street features
It has 100% of that stuff (signal/light indicators, CEL, etc), even has an alternator light with the right impedance. You do have to pay $150 to get CAN receive, but it's so discounted now that it's not much more than the IQ3S even when you buy CAN. Also, it has predictive GPS lap timing.
That will never cease to amaze me. I paid $1924 taxed and titled for the exact same trailer brand new in 2010.
You found it cheap. Mine was either $2500 or $3K (I don't remember any more) when I bought it the same year. That might have included tie down straps and the spare tire, though.
So I test-fit the Miata in the trailer today, fits nicely.
The trailer wheels prevent me from opening the doors far enough to get out, so I'll either be leaving the top down and climbing out that way, or else just using the winch.
Also managed to get the trailer into the side yard. THAT was a tight fit, I'm going to need to lose the bushes next to the fence, I think, and the trailer is going to need one of the fancy multi-camera backup systems or else I'll never get it in there without a spotter.
:
Also managed to get the trailer into the side yard. THAT was a tight fit, I'm going to need to lose the bushes next to the fence, I think, and the trailer is going to need one of the fancy multi-camera backup systems or else I'll never get it in there without a spotter.
:
--Ian
Consider adding parking sensors too.
I added a reversing camera to my Mazda SP23 but have more confidence in the reversing sensors in the work Hyundai iLoad (I can reverse that thing anywhere it will "just fit" into).
11-13-2016, 01:43 PM
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