Schuyler

iTrader: (1)

<p>I cannot turn the motor over all the way by hand. I can spin it in reverse at that point, then the same thing happens. Rod hitting the block?</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>Motor is on the engine stand. I'll pull the pan and head on Friday and we'll finally know.</p>

HHammerly

iTrader: (3)

Bummer but a good thing that you cranked it by hand, did it turn ok before and after you put the timing belt on?
It must be a crank scraper a stray part in one cylinder or bad timing belt instalation?

Schuyler

iTrader: (1)

<p></p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>Sorry for the confusion, rereading it now I wasn't very clear. This is the blown motor. My guess is a bent rod hitting the block.</p>

HHammerly

iTrader: (3)

Oh that is great news

Schuyler

iTrader: (1)

<p>Alrighty ladies and gentleman. I didn't fix these pictures, so you'll have to click them or whatever so they aren't huge. Took them with my 7d.&nbsp;</p><p>Rods 1-4. 4 is FUCKED, but it wasn't the one with bad compression. Also with 4, the crank seems to have hit the block. I've included pictures of that as well.</p><p><img src="http://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.miataturbo.net-vbulletin/2000x1333/80-img_0445_6cd56dcb48155eab9e149e0ce9774feed6a0f9e1. jpg" title="" /><br /><br /><img src="https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.miataturbo.net-vbulletin/2000x1333/80-img_0446_67f0a8f2e653e1ea4bc7ae685580db17acf10d65. jpg" title="" /><br /><br /><img src="http://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.miataturbo.net-vbulletin/2000x1333/80-img_0444_03e0d8a26ab5d828c51b308e7a190e6317b6acd0. jpg" title="" /><br /><br /><img src="https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.miataturbo.net-vbulletin/2000x1333/80-img_0443_87168fa4fe851b960de9f5c494a093266d247ee4. jpg" title="" /><br /><br /><img src="http://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.miataturbo.net-vbulletin/2000x1333/80-img_0437_7c64ae7d6c9efe49adb8183ecf6c6a3b46cac6c1. jpg" title="" /><br /><br /><img src="http://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.miataturbo.net-vbulletin/2000x1333/80-img_0441_6a893f70a049f3af693933b6d6a4177934e8bc60. jpg" title="" /><br /><br />&nbsp;</p>

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

<p>Are those the redhorse fittings we talked about?</p>

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

<p>Also, holy carnage batman. That is awesome.</p>

patsmx5

iTrader: (16)

Looks like the crank hit piston 4 due to the rod being shorter, moving the piston closer to the crankshaft throw.

turbofan

iTrader: (1)

^ what Pat said.
<br />
<br />Schuyler, would you please elaborate on your fuel plans and document it really well? For some reason I can't quite wrap my head around the whole return-conversion, but I need to do it in a few weeks.
<br />
<br />Thanks!

DNMakinson

iTrader: (3)

<p>Any signs of Detonation or pre-ignition? Wondering if #4 got hot and detonated. Seems coincidental that this is yet another #4 failure.</p><p>Head look fine to go on the new block?</p>

Schuyler

iTrader: (1)

<p></p><p>Negative. All my fuel fittings so far are Russell</p><p></p><p>Sure can. I'll add pictures and diagrams once it is actually installed (and I've verified it works)</p><p></p><p>No signs of detonation. Head looks fine.</p>

patsmx5

iTrader: (16)

If you have it or can buy one, get a 10x magnification lense ( I use a cheap jewelr's loupe) and look at the spark plugs with it in good lighting. I did this and what looked "fine" is actually detonating, as was evident by the black specs and-more obvious- little ***** of aluminum stuck to the ceramic. These were ov course invisible with the naked eye, but showed up with good lighting and a 9x magnification.

I HIGHLY recommend you do this so you know for sure if it was knocking, or at least do it on your new motor to be sure it's not knocking. Very cheap and accurate way to tell if it was knocking.

turbofan

iTrader: (1)

<p>OK Hurry up :P thanks.</p>

Schuyler

iTrader: (1)

<p></p><p>Will do :P</p><p>But in the mean time, Flounder has a pretty good guide as well.</p><p>https://www.miataturbo.net/diy-turbo...l-style-74629/</p>

Schuyler

iTrader: (1)

<p>So I think the plan is going to be to run wastegate pressure and&nbsp;get it tuned on e85 without really adding any timing. Then run 10psi, tune, find peak torque. Increase boost with to flatten the curve. I'd prefer not to bend any more rods.</p><p>Any comments?</p>

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

<p>I say get on a dyno before turning up the boost. Didn't you up the compression with the new block? Or lower it because automatic.</p>

Schuyler

iTrader: (1)

<p></p><p>Increased. 9.5:1 -&gt; 10:1</p>

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

<p>Get on a dyno before you crank boost. My&nbsp;<img alt="2 cents" src="https://www.miataturbo.net/images/smilies/sign0134.gif" style="height:15px; width:23px" title="2 cents" /></p>

Schuyler

iTrader: (1)

<p>Woodruff key on the new motor is broken. Stuck in sprocket.</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>Stripped one of the 8mm 8 point bolts that hold the baffle down in the pan. So that is gunna suck too.</p>

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Hope you called it a night. No need to break more.