Orion ZyGarian

I havent posted here much lately, as I've been trying to focus on work and getting my Supra back on the road. My Miata is (supposed to be) just a daily driver.

Engine seized and I need a daily, so basically I went full retard. ARP head studs and flywheel bolts, Scat rods (which look like all the same generic ebay, Tomei ones, etc.) SuperTech 10.6:1 pistons, clevite bearings, MegaSquirt PNP, Megan Racing engine mounts. So much for staying stock.

As my sig says, I even have an F20C drivetrain to put in it, but right now need a running car. As with most builds, this one ended up being much more than a simple BP engine swap or bare essentials rebuild.

I'm just going to dump pics, and you guys should be able to figure it out.





In case I want to turbo it...








New A/C system including Evaporator since its so cheap. Of course, this is how it came in the box. Fortunately I was able to get it out



Also I'm painting it
























Fidanza flywheel friction surface replacement

Miater

Good looking little build, dyno pump gas?.

I just sold my 88' Supra Turbo in that same color. I still have a spare motor and targa...

soviet

iTrader: (10)

Power goals?
I would also at least do ARP Main studs.

Orion ZyGarian

Yeah, have to switch to 93 now because of compression and whatever tune I can squeeze out of it

I have a room just of parts...so I know how it is.
Whatever I squeeze out of it with just what you see. 140 whp would be splendid. I dont plan on spending any more on it from here...but just in case I want to eventually, it's getting the -12 bung for the oil pan. Dont think ARP mains will be too necessary tbh.

soviet

iTrader: (10)

oh

140whp

yeah, overkill.

Orion ZyGarian

If I'm honest, I'd love to do a 6258 or 6758 (likely the latter since theyre the same price), but the truth is that the plan has always been to swap out for something else. Ideally, when it comes time, I would sell the build engine and go for something bigger but lighter.

Life thinks its funny when I plan things though, so who knows? Maybe I'll even go V8.

That said, I'm still researching on where the best place to put this big ol friggin -12 bung. I would swear it is overkill for the kind of turbo I'd run, only because I'm worried about actually fitting the fittings. Still plan to run A/C no matter what as well.

I've been going through your thread to see what you did with your setup, though I'm only a few pages in. How are you liking your placement of the return? I might just copy what you did tbh, looks like it worked well

The one I'm referring to is https://www.miataturbo.net/build-thr...e2/#post848310 Is there anything in the way of that, like the steering shaft?

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

No nothing is in the way there. Have a look at my ghettotastic one. Also, please do some sort of female threaded bung on the pan rather than a male thread. You will **** it up somehow putting the engine in or taking it out and make it leak. Mine is on the front section of the pan while soviets is the 3rd from the front. There's still plenty of room there.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1370275957

Orion ZyGarian

Thanks for the suggestion. The oil lines we usually use (in the non-Miata world) for draining are generic -12 female on the end, so thats why I opted for that.

That's an interesting setup. Is that a brass elbow? How did you get it angled right?

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

Yes, its setup that way because with non-crimp style AN fittings I only ended up with ~1" of hose and I wasnt able to get the correct angle with the fittings since 1" of hose doesnt have much play. Its 1/2NPT in the pan and when I manage to re-do it with AN style fittings I will put my -10 to 1/2NPT adapter back in.

Orion ZyGarian

Turns out part of why this is delayed is I'm still working on where exactly I want the oil drain. I'm keeping A/C and PS, so placement has become a bit of a headache, especially since I dont even know what turbo/placement I would be running.

Seriously, having a hell of a time figuring out where this drain is going to go. I'm debating doing it right next to the dipstick. I would think because of clearance issues with the pumps, it would be easier to try to mount the turbo further back, but that also just runs me into the issue of downpipe fitment.

I'm going through threads and finding what other people have done, such as:



It can be tough to tell how much clearance there actually is to tighten the fitting on. I'm pretty sure what is used in that setup (BEGI S1) isnt a -12