My crapp DIY junk build
11-16-2009, 01:19 PM
#21
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I would bought a turbo without the internal or built in WG as you have an external one.
Just FYI, the weld where the wastegate is attached to will give up at some point, trust me I have seen it happened. I would have welded a longer tube and attach brackets to it so it can hold under heat and vibration.
Just FYI, the weld where the wastegate is attached to will give up at some point, trust me I have seen it happened. I would have welded a longer tube and attach brackets to it so it can hold under heat and vibration.
Also, why do u say the weld is going to give? I did a double pass on it and it made great penetration, I even preheated the cast manifold and then cooled it slowly in the oven. Not saying it wont, just wanna know what's wrong with it.
Another thing, you have to watch out when porting the cylinder head, especially on the intake side. The texture roughness usually found on the intake runners is control the speed of the fuel and not just spit it out the exhaust side. I have seen it happened before where people go crazy smoothing and widening the ports and at the end what they did was kill the CH.
Thanks for all the input man, i appreciate it.
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11-17-2009, 01:24 AM
#23
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Yeah I knew that but I had no choice, not really sure a weight support would help though. I'll probably just leave it how it is and if it cracks then I'll try some support or something.
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12-18-2009, 10:00 AM
#24
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my friend bought one of those 150$ ebay turbos
This turbo...
was spinning tires in 3rd gear... which caused third gear to do this.....
and then he bought a miata!
This is a cool build thread, i think mine will be slightly milder but on the same theme! Congrats on getting it done!
JP
This turbo...
was spinning tires in 3rd gear... which caused third gear to do this.....
and then he bought a miata!
This is a cool build thread, i think mine will be slightly milder but on the same theme! Congrats on getting it done!
JP
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12-29-2009, 10:08 PM
#25
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Well a small and pointless update, got a cheap MBC online and tomorrow will be finishing the 1.8 diff swap.
Ordered the rest of the meth parts I need so soon I will be able to make det cans and start tuning.
As a side note, I've had this urge to pull my system apart and make an Absurdflow-style manifold and new downpipe. But I should resist the urge until at least next winter, no matter how badass it would be.
Also needing new tires soon, does anyone know what the widest size tire you can safely put on a 15X6.5 stock NB wheel?
Should have some logs to post spoolups by this weekend.
Ordered the rest of the meth parts I need so soon I will be able to make det cans and start tuning.
As a side note, I've had this urge to pull my system apart and make an Absurdflow-style manifold and new downpipe. But I should resist the urge until at least next winter, no matter how badass it would be.
Also needing new tires soon, does anyone know what the widest size tire you can safely put on a 15X6.5 stock NB wheel?
Should have some logs to post spoolups by this weekend.
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12-30-2009, 12:06 AM
#26
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Toyo says the 225/50/15 is all good, but seems to reccomend against the 225/45/15.
http://marktg.toyotires.com/file/18968.pdf
Looking forward to the logs. Def. hold off on the Absurdflow style goodies until the car has broken something next year, and is already out of commision. There's something to be said for stopping the building, and starting the driving.
http://marktg.toyotires.com/file/18968.pdf
Looking forward to the logs. Def. hold off on the Absurdflow style goodies until the car has broken something next year, and is already out of commision. There's something to be said for stopping the building, and starting the driving.
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12-30-2009, 04:32 PM
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Toyo says the 225/50/15 is all good, but seems to reccomend against the 225/45/15.
http://marktg.toyotires.com/file/18968.pdf
http://marktg.toyotires.com/file/18968.pdf
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12-30-2009, 10:05 PM
#30
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Well I ordered the remainder of my meth injection parts, I have everything I need except the actual meth itself.
I couldn't find anywhere local that sells it, does anyone know of any cheap places to buy it online?
I couldn't find anywhere local that sells it, does anyone know of any cheap places to buy it online?
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01-01-2010, 01:52 AM
#34
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I could however easily be wrong.
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01-03-2010, 03:37 PM
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Ok well I finally got to take it for another drive yesterday. I did take some logs but I have two issues.
First one is, after the diff swap, I was getting a vibration or knocking noise that was coming from the rear somewhere, not exactly sure what's up with that yet.
Other issue is that my map readings are very shaky.
I've had this problem before the diff swap, and I cleaned all my grounds and ran some extras. It made the issue way better, but it's still there any pretty bad, so I was thinking it's gotta be:
-Still grounds are bad, but I think I ran enough that it should be good.
-Power input is not steady, throwing off all the readings, I'm going to try an inline power conditioner and see if it helps, I remember seeing someone say it helped them in the past.
-The MAP actually is that shaky, I'm taking it from port on the back of the IM, I've seen people say that's a bad place to get it from but idk, I'll try another one and see if it helps.
Let me know what you think though, it's hard to really get any for sure info about my spooling off of this. I'll try to resolve the shakyness issue but first of course I'd like to figure out what the noise is in my rear.
This is a 2nd gear pull.
And here's a 3rd gear pull, only to 5k rpm though.
Also, the afr map on the screenshot is obviously not the one I use to do VE ----. it just was the default that popped up when I opened MLV
Again, thanks for the comments and suggestions.
First one is, after the diff swap, I was getting a vibration or knocking noise that was coming from the rear somewhere, not exactly sure what's up with that yet.
Other issue is that my map readings are very shaky.
I've had this problem before the diff swap, and I cleaned all my grounds and ran some extras. It made the issue way better, but it's still there any pretty bad, so I was thinking it's gotta be:
-Still grounds are bad, but I think I ran enough that it should be good.
-Power input is not steady, throwing off all the readings, I'm going to try an inline power conditioner and see if it helps, I remember seeing someone say it helped them in the past.
-The MAP actually is that shaky, I'm taking it from port on the back of the IM, I've seen people say that's a bad place to get it from but idk, I'll try another one and see if it helps.
Let me know what you think though, it's hard to really get any for sure info about my spooling off of this. I'll try to resolve the shakyness issue but first of course I'd like to figure out what the noise is in my rear.
This is a 2nd gear pull.
And here's a 3rd gear pull, only to 5k rpm though.
Also, the afr map on the screenshot is obviously not the one I use to do VE ----. it just was the default that popped up when I opened MLV
Again, thanks for the comments and suggestions.
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01-10-2010, 11:16 PM
#40
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Do you have a boost gauge? Perhaps you are getting waste gate flutter or surge on the compressor. That's a pretty big compressor on a small engine and you are running a lower pressure ratio on the compressor side with what I would consider a large turbine AR on a 1.6L.
Just an idea from a newb. Experts can chime in and tell me how it is. ;^)
Just an idea from a newb. Experts can chime in and tell me how it is. ;^)
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