x_25

In theory, you can just run the narrow band. It is very not reccomended though. I forgot about the wide band since I had installed it a while before to see what the stock ecu was doing.

ANONYMOUS_HAM

i did that too. I love it in the vent how it fits so well

Forrest95M

You just literally need to open a new project and hit detect, the project will be detected and tunerstudios will select the corresponding firmware. Serial mismatch happens when TS believes its one firmware and the ECU is running a different firmware

ridethecliche

iTrader: (2)

Forrest to the rescue!

ANONYMOUS_HAM

wow, alright then. I'll try it later. I hate how I work everyday over the weekend.

ANONYMOUS_HAM

it still didn't work. Just pulled up the other firmware.

Forrest95M

Shoot, I forgot you need some stupid adapter file to reflash hi-res onto ms1. You can try this one https://www.miataturbo.net/megasquir...windows-52140/
I had no luck with that one, I had to use some file I found on an old m.net thread, I'll see what I can dig up.
Like people said before, now would be time for a reflash.
EDIT: https://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?p=4349770 post #20

ANONYMOUS_HAM

So about to make my first order of everything except the PCB. I am going to build the harness adapter first while I have the money for that then I can purchase the other one in a few weeks. My question is, why the two harnesses? It doesn't really specifiy in the article what the megasquirt bundle is for. Just the MS3x bundle. Do you splice them together in the end or what? Thanks.

shuiend

iTrader: (24)

When you build an MS3X there are 2 DB37 connectors on it. The top db37 is for the expander board and you use the 3X wiring bundle for it. The bottom db37 is for the megasquirt wiring bundle. You will run wires from both db37's over to the connector that you plug into the stock harness.

ANONYMOUS_HAM

ah sweet! Thanks a bunch.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

why were you looking at DIYPNP docs trying to install run a MS1?

ANONYMOUS_HAM

i got rid of the MS1, budget just has too many hoops and I would like it to run as best it can, and reliablely.

ANONYMOUS_HAM

Okay so I have ordered litterally everything. I am picking up a MS3 mainbored assembly locally today. And I just have one question, the rest is pretty self explanitory, to clarify all you do it replace the R54 with the R22 Resistor. The R13 is confusing. Is it supposed to be the R19 or R13? Also is all you do is turn it like they have it?

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

R52 is a variable resistor, but we always tune it to be at 100K ohms. So instead, I use a spare 100K ohm resistor, R22, and install it in the R52 position instead (outer two holes).

R13/R19. We don't install R13, but the left hole of R13 goes to 5v. The right hole of R45 is part of the VR input circuit. Bridging the left hole of R13 to the right hole of R45, via a 1K resistor (R19), provides the necessary pull-up for that circuit.

ANONYMOUS_HAM

Ahhhh. Okay. Thanks a lot.

ANONYMOUS_HAM

So for $200 I got a STIM built, and a MS3 kit with the board kinda done. Unfortunately I have to do the things I talked about before that they didn't do. But it was a surprise.

x_25

That looks like an MS2 processor to me on the right hand side in that picture?

Also, plastic lid is probably not a good place for putting static sensitive circuits....

ANONYMOUS_HAM

it is Ms2 I found out. But it'll work I suppose. Everything should still be the same. I moved the plastic lol don't worry.

ANONYMOUS_HAM

So I got here and I have no idea which one it is. I've looked around a little bit. If anyone could say.

ANONYMOUS_HAM

So there is the 99% done I'm pretty sure. The problem above and that one is the only thing I'm missing. But I'm taking a break for today. I loaded the firmware, the map sensor works, and reads correctly. Also do I need to jumper for the IAC and PWM? So I just need those 4 questions answered. And I can finish up the main board.