My next car to sale thread
08-01-2013, 05:06 PM
#181
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I went to town with a wire wheel on a drill and afterwards used some kind of rust killer spray that turns the rust black on my dash bar. I thought about painting it with some rustoleum too, but decided it was good enough as long as the rust has been killed.
No need to spray the **** out of something that will never be seen, function>form.
No need to spray the **** out of something that will never be seen, function>form.
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08-01-2013, 05:13 PM
#182
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The words 'rust' and 'plastidip' should never be used in the same sentence. In fact, some day people will wake up and realize plastic dip shouldn't be used on anything that isn't uber-temporary.
SEM 'Trim Paint' is da bomb when it comes to:
A) adhesion/durability
B) looking OEM (has a proper satin look for interior parts).
C) quick flash time
Use SEM etching primer underneath.
-Zach
SEM 'Trim Paint' is da bomb when it comes to:
A) adhesion/durability
B) looking OEM (has a proper satin look for interior parts).
C) quick flash time
Use SEM etching primer underneath.
-Zach
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08-01-2013, 05:15 PM
#183
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I went to town with a wire wheel on a drill and afterwards used some kind of rust killer spray that turns the rust black on my dash bar. I thought about painting it with some rustoleum too, but decided it was good enough as long as the rust has been killed.
No need to spray the **** out of something that will never be seen, function>form.
No need to spray the **** out of something that will never be seen, function>form.
The parts where the rust will be removed are going to be covered in this rust resist crap that I used to coat where I drilled holes in the chassis when I installed the roll bar on my 97'
Anyways just logged on to print out wiring diagrams for the W/I, AEM gauges, and 93 harness. Time organize and rebuild!
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08-01-2013, 05:37 PM
#184
Pretty worried about your planned use of solder. How are you planning to use that?
There is a reason that the manufacturers use crimped connections. And it's not because they are saving money.
Solder is OK for:
1. Wire repairs (stip both ends of a broken wire, twist together, solder and heat shrink); and
2. Circuit boards.
Other than that, you should get a quality crimping tool and crimp. Unless, of course, you plan on removing that dash on a regular basis for Easter egg hunts. (Are we allowed to say Easter?)
There is a reason that the manufacturers use crimped connections. And it's not because they are saving money.
Solder is OK for:
1. Wire repairs (stip both ends of a broken wire, twist together, solder and heat shrink); and
2. Circuit boards.
Other than that, you should get a quality crimping tool and crimp. Unless, of course, you plan on removing that dash on a regular basis for Easter egg hunts. (Are we allowed to say Easter?)
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08-01-2013, 07:43 PM
#185
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I appreciate the tips guys. There will be absolutely no issues with my soldering, plastidip, rust repair.
I cut the wire, strip it, insert heat shrink, twist the wires together, properly solder them, cover with heat shrink, done. There is absolutely nothing wrong with this. Especially if the wire is supported properly, which it will be.
For the record I understand that solder creates a solid piece of wire. This can cause it to fatigue at the ends, and eventual failure. BUT to be honest I've seen plenty of crimps fail (one actually fell apart on me today as I was moving the harness around) although I know that the ones that fail were done improperly (but that can be said about solder too).
I was taught to solder at a young age, it's what I grew up with doing, so I feel most comfortable working with what I know. Plus I don't own a good crimper. It's on my list.
I got quite a bit done today. I have to prepare for my calc test tomorrow though which makes me sad. I'll finish up the dash tomorrow and then I'll be working my way backwards to the trunk. I'm sure I'll catch flak for the sound deadening that will probably be used excessively.
I cut the wire, strip it, insert heat shrink, twist the wires together, properly solder them, cover with heat shrink, done. There is absolutely nothing wrong with this. Especially if the wire is supported properly, which it will be.
For the record I understand that solder creates a solid piece of wire. This can cause it to fatigue at the ends, and eventual failure. BUT to be honest I've seen plenty of crimps fail (one actually fell apart on me today as I was moving the harness around) although I know that the ones that fail were done improperly (but that can be said about solder too).
I was taught to solder at a young age, it's what I grew up with doing, so I feel most comfortable working with what I know. Plus I don't own a good crimper. It's on my list.
I got quite a bit done today. I have to prepare for my calc test tomorrow though which makes me sad. I'll finish up the dash tomorrow and then I'll be working my way backwards to the trunk. I'm sure I'll catch flak for the sound deadening that will probably be used excessively.
Last edited by FRT_Fun; 08-01-2013 at 08:02 PM.
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08-02-2013, 12:11 AM
#186
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My solder:
The wires look dirty but they were freshly stripped and the bare wire was clean. I don't always twist them together, but it's force of habit and I know it's better to tin both sides, touch them and apply heat. Also disclaimer, this isn't my best work, just the only pictures I had available.
If I'm doing it wrong let me know, I'm not trying to be defensive, tips are always welcome.
The wires look dirty but they were freshly stripped and the bare wire was clean. I don't always twist them together, but it's force of habit and I know it's better to tin both sides, touch them and apply heat. Also disclaimer, this isn't my best work, just the only pictures I had available.
If I'm doing it wrong let me know, I'm not trying to be defensive, tips are always welcome.
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08-02-2013, 10:38 AM
#193
Yes. A lot of people use solder-type wire terminals on cars. That's a poor solution for a high-vibration environment.
I didn't know what exactly you were doing behind that panel, which is why I listed the two instances where solder is OK. For the record, when I have a broken wire, I repair it exactly the way you are doing. But when I make a wire termination, I always crimp (and use aviation terminals for good measure).
I didn't know what exactly you were doing behind that panel, which is why I listed the two instances where solder is OK. For the record, when I have a broken wire, I repair it exactly the way you are doing. But when I make a wire termination, I always crimp (and use aviation terminals for good measure).
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08-02-2013, 10:41 AM
#194
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Yes. A lot of people use solder-type connectors on cars. That's a poor solution for a high-vibration environment.
I didn't know what exactly you were doing behind that panel, which is why I listed the two instances where solder is OK. For the record, when I have a broken wire, I repair it exactly the way you are doing.
I didn't know what exactly you were doing behind that panel, which is why I listed the two instances where solder is OK. For the record, when I have a broken wire, I repair it exactly the way you are doing.
After my test today I'm free all weekend and will hopefully have the current batch of repairs done and driving the car. Taking pictures but probably won't post until I'm done.
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08-02-2013, 06:02 PM
#197
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Boost as in like an ebc?
The o2 comes out of the other 2 main connectors. This one is odd. I think it ended near where the radio was... dunno. Guess ill find out eventually.
The o2 comes out of the other 2 main connectors. This one is odd. I think it ended near where the radio was... dunno. Guess ill find out eventually.
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