My next car to sale thread
07-30-2013, 06:38 PM
#161
I'm a terrible person
Thread Starter
iTrader: (19)
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Arizona
Posts: 7,174
Total Cats: 180
**** just got real. Project FML dash organization has begun. I don't know how far down I will be stripping this B yet. But I will say I'm glad I decided to do this. I'm a bit overwhelmed right now with the massive amount of wires, but once I start mapping it out and sorting through what is what it should be good.
My goal is simplicity, and simple looking. I want to eliminate everything that is used, and tidy everything up so every wire has it's place.
My goal is simplicity, and simple looking. I want to eliminate everything that is used, and tidy everything up so every wire has it's place.
Reply
0
0
07-31-2013, 01:12 PM
#165
I'm a terrible person
Thread Starter
iTrader: (19)
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Arizona
Posts: 7,174
Total Cats: 180
When I see my car with the dash out I get excited and nervous at the same time. The wiring REALLY needed to be sorted out. I have a general plan of how I want things to end up. Hopefully I'll have it back up and running by the end of the weekend.
Reply
0
0
07-31-2013, 01:23 PM
#166
Elite Member
iTrader: (13)
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Taos, New mexico
Posts: 6,593
Total Cats: 554
I'm about to swap my cracked POS dash out for a clean one I've got in my garage. How hard was it to pull this thing out? Do you forsee any issues getting it back in? Think i can do the complete swap in say, 4-5 hours on the weekend? I'm not going to "tidy" up the wiring like you are really, just a quick swapout.
Glad to see you doing work on this thing. neat.
Glad to see you doing work on this thing. neat.
Reply
0
0
07-31-2013, 02:00 PM
#167
I'm a terrible person
Thread Starter
iTrader: (19)
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Arizona
Posts: 7,174
Total Cats: 180
It was really quite quick pulling it out. I'd imagine that it will take a bit longer to put in because you actually have to line things up.
I used this:
http://www.miata.net/garage/DashRmv_89_93.pdf
It was quite accurate minus a few things, but if you use logic it's easy to figure out.
I had mine out in about 1.5 hours in 105 degree heat (lots of breaks).
Add another 30-45 minutes to pull the bar off the dash and swap to the new one. And probably 2 hours for reinstall.
This might sound stupid and obvious but make sure you have a really good screw driver and one that fits those screws perfectly or it's really a pain. There are about 50 screws you will probably have to remove. Luckily they are pretty much the same so you don't have to keep track of which ones went where, just where they went.
I used this:
http://www.miata.net/garage/DashRmv_89_93.pdf
It was quite accurate minus a few things, but if you use logic it's easy to figure out.
I had mine out in about 1.5 hours in 105 degree heat (lots of breaks).
Add another 30-45 minutes to pull the bar off the dash and swap to the new one. And probably 2 hours for reinstall.
This might sound stupid and obvious but make sure you have a really good screw driver and one that fits those screws perfectly or it's really a pain. There are about 50 screws you will probably have to remove. Luckily they are pretty much the same so you don't have to keep track of which ones went where, just where they went.
Reply
0
0
07-31-2013, 06:05 PM
#174
I'm a terrible person
Thread Starter
iTrader: (19)
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Arizona
Posts: 7,174
Total Cats: 180
How difficult is it to get a MS working with a different year miata than what it was built for? Is it a matter of connecting the cars harness to the connector of whatever year the MS was built for?
Reply
0
0
08-01-2013, 10:02 AM
#176
I'm a terrible person
Thread Starter
iTrader: (19)
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Arizona
Posts: 7,174
Total Cats: 180
NM
I'll probably just end up actually building one of these damn things. It's about time I actually do work. I'm assuming that if I have a 93 with a 99 1.8 that I should still make one for a 90-93 harness..?
I'll probably just end up actually building one of these damn things. It's about time I actually do work. I'm assuming that if I have a 93 with a 99 1.8 that I should still make one for a 90-93 harness..?
Reply
0
0
08-01-2013, 10:49 AM
#177
Boost Czar
iTrader: (62)
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Chantilly, VA
Posts: 79,484
Total Cats: 4,076
correct.
when I'm building a 90-05 MS3x, there's little difference between the ECU itself; it's all in the harness. The only real exception being an additional flyback for the VVT and the alternator controller.
But I wouldn't have been able to plug in say y8s's ms3x into my harness and run because of the way he built and modded it.
so that's why I said depends.
when I'm building a 90-05 MS3x, there's little difference between the ECU itself; it's all in the harness. The only real exception being an additional flyback for the VVT and the alternator controller.
But I wouldn't have been able to plug in say y8s's ms3x into my harness and run because of the way he built and modded it.
so that's why I said depends.
Reply
0
0
08-01-2013, 03:11 PM
#178
I'm a terrible person
Thread Starter
iTrader: (19)
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Arizona
Posts: 7,174
Total Cats: 180
Gotcha. Well I have to decide if and when I want to upgrade from the MSPNP. I feel like if I am pushing for 300whp it would be good to have some extra features.
This thread is about to move like craaaaay.
Plastidiping the dash bar.
Removing parts of the dash.
Relocating MSPNP to behind center of dash.
Rewire errything not part of the stock harness with connectors, heatshrink, and solder.
Move how the wires route from the interior to the engine bay so that the wires/vac lines go through the holes from the heater core and A/C.
Apply sound deadening to certain spots.
Move the routing for the water injection a bit.
Installing a fixed USB mount after the USB/serial converter for the MSPNP.
Remove or hide excess OEM harness wires.
Remove surface rust and plastidip certain interior spots.
And probably more.
This thread is about to move like craaaaay.
Plastidiping the dash bar.
Removing parts of the dash.
Relocating MSPNP to behind center of dash.
Rewire errything not part of the stock harness with connectors, heatshrink, and solder.
Move how the wires route from the interior to the engine bay so that the wires/vac lines go through the holes from the heater core and A/C.
Apply sound deadening to certain spots.
Move the routing for the water injection a bit.
Installing a fixed USB mount after the USB/serial converter for the MSPNP.
Remove or hide excess OEM harness wires.
Remove surface rust and plastidip certain interior spots.
And probably more.
Reply
0
0
08-01-2013, 04:29 PM
#180
The words 'rust' and 'plastidip' should never be used in the same sentence. In fact, some day people will wake up and realize plastic dip shouldn't be used on anything that isn't uber-temporary.
SEM 'Trim Paint' is da bomb when it comes to:
A) adhesion/durability
B) looking OEM (has a proper satin look for interior parts).
C) quick flash time
Use SEM etching primer underneath.
-Zach
SEM 'Trim Paint' is da bomb when it comes to:
A) adhesion/durability
B) looking OEM (has a proper satin look for interior parts).
C) quick flash time
Use SEM etching primer underneath.
-Zach
Reply
0
0
