codrus

The photo doesn't seem to be working.

--Ian

gesso

iTrader: (1)

Your past few image links are bad and you should feel bad /zoidberg/.

Also I can't tell how far off center it's drilled (see above comment) but we could chuck it up in the mill and make the hole/thread centered?

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

Its because I hosted them on MT rather than imgur like I usually do.

Did the valve cover image work? Trying to figure out how far to go back.

Possibruu but it should be OK with the 10.5mm drill. I can bring it by and we can give it a shot.

gesso

iTrader: (1)

I only see two broken image links (the most recent two).

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

Rehosted on imgur. Better?

SchmoozerJoe

iTrader: (2)

Absolutely.

codrus

Yeah, photos work now.

You could also drill to 7/16 and thread it for 1/4 NPT, adapters from that to -6 are common.

--Ian

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

I thought about that, but I have a pretty vicious hate for NPT and I don't own a 1/4"NPT tap. Either way I'm buying a drill and a tap so I figured I'd go for metric and expand my meager collection. The fittings are going to come from Summit either way so I'm also trying to stick to just a couple brands of fittings. So far its all Bat-Inc and Fragola, and maybe 1 fitting from Russell.

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

In other news, the great big bastard coolant fitting on the back of the head, the one that feeds water to the oil preheater/cooler I'm eliminating, is way larger than 3/8" NPT. I don't want to create a "cursed water plug" esque situation back there but I do want to block it off. Anyone have a clever idea?

I'd prefer to avoid things like Curly's "bolt and hose clamp" plug

codrus

The metric threads are straight/parallel, right? If so you're going to need some external way of sealing them -- a rubber washer?

--Ian

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

Yes sir, requires a seal in the form of an aluminum crush washer


http://www.summitracing.com/parts/fra-491953-bl

hornetball

iTrader: (4)

I got a set screw that was just a bit bigger than the outlet ID, ran a tap into the outlet and JB welded the set screw in. Has held up to a year of tracking with no issues.

rwyatt365

I cut it off flush to the head, tapped it with a 3/8 NPT and plugged it with a brass plug. The ID of the fitting is almost perfect for the 3/8 NPT tap. My engine hasn't been run that much (still finishing the car) but so far no leaks.

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

Interesting... you literally just tapped it into the remnants of the steel fitting?

rwyatt365

Yep - I did that, exactly.

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

Humm... are there pics somewhere I'm not seeing? That bastard must be pretty thick.

rwyatt365

Hard to see in ths fuzzy pic, but it's right behind the black -AN fitting sticking out from the reroute spacer (behind the water outlet). IIRC, the outlet is pretty thick.

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

Daymn, no kidding. That steel is much thicker than I thought it would be. I browsed through your build thread and didn't it so I do appreciate the pic

I'm still on the fence though. I know removing the whole thing and tapping the aluminum would be "better" in the long run, but I'm lazy and I already have the 3/8NPT tap


On a completely semi unrelated tangent, I drove the Miata to work this morning for the first time in probably 2 months. Lolz were had and I got revved on by an SRT4 at a light. I hope beating a stock Miata off the line makes him feel better about his day job

rwyatt365

Glad the pic helped (I probably didn't post it 'cause it was such a lousy picture).

I thought about trying to remove the whole thing, but it wouldn't budge when I tried with a channel-lock. So I just cut the b**ch off and tapped it.

hornetball

iTrader: (4)

Nothing wrong with putting pipe threads into steel. In fact, most pipes used in industry are steel and pipe threads were specifically designed for that material.