good2go

iTrader: (2)

I thought he did back in post #1580

18psi

iTrader: (76)

Dude,
Please read the threads before commenting on them. IF you don't know, or don't have time to read, then don't comment.
You can't get upset at him when everyone here knows the details of the thread except for you. The regulars here pretty much all know the rough breakdowns of each of our threads cause we're all friends pretty much.
It's a brand new cnc head from 949. Never been used.

patsmx5

iTrader: (16)

Yeap, he did. I missed that.

Well, if it's machined correctly, the measurements won't change. OEMs build cars, set the lash, and they are good for years. Mazda did this too. So can any good machinist.

Since he said the head is new, I'd double check all the measurements and contact the builder. If new they should at least all be the same, especially a performance oriented head, having exacting tolerances is common on performance motors.

patsmx5

iTrader: (16)

Hey he didn't answer when I asked, he answered in his second post and I missed it. My bad! Besides he's good about his multi quote post, I've gotten used to it!

LOL at talking about me instead of his motor though. Lets get back to talking miatas going fast.

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

I'm starting to realize that rather than trolling, you appear to be asking questions while having not followed the thread or read the proceeding data. The information you asked for is already in the thread, in multiple locations, and I didn't feel like repeating myself.

If that is the case, I apologize for accusing you of trolling but please try to follow along if you are going to offer advice.

If that is not the case and you are skimming the last page or so and can't be bothered to follow along, I'll happily ignore your comments.

I've got no beef with you personally, hell I don't even know you, but I also know I don't want to sit here and repeat myself constantly. I'll be the first to admit this thread is a mess and its hard to follow at times, but I've encouraged that from the beginning because most of the content is my fractured ramblings and babbling. But hey, its my build thread and I can do that. Believe it or not I do read other peoples threads and I am aware of the valve issues other people are having, and the root causes for said issues. At this point that is not the issue as the engine has literally accomplished 2880° of rotation while in my possession.

Again, thank you for your comments, I will take them under advisement. I'm going to contact the guys who built my head and see what they recommend.

patsmx5

iTrader: (16)

Yes I missed it. I've followed your thread a good amount, but I have not read every page of it, your build thread is 1,600 post long! You're the guy that's doing everything and has a running car now. Thus I thought you were having problems with the head on the car, didn't realize this was a different head when I posted.

I don't troll people, I'm here to learn so my car will go faster and do so reliably, and help others when I can. In fact when I see a stupid question asked with 5 troll answers, I'll respond with actual help. In 2007 I was the grammar police and posted a lot and did troll people back then, now I'm here to learn and ask dumb questions when I need to and offer advice when I think I can help and I have real world experience. I hate it when 5 people offer advice that have no actual experience, so I try to never do that. One things I've learned is that miata motors are not the same as every other motor, so just because I know chevys, of LS1's, or whatever, doesn't mean that blanket-applies to miata motors. I have a ME degree so I'll also chime in on threads discussing mechanical ideas, or anything involving heat transfer, things like that as it's my background.

Good luck getting it straightened out though! I'll try to go back and read through your apparent motor-build that I missed and check it out. I hope to find pics of your CNC head, like, lots of pics. I'm going to find those, right?

And now I have to go pull the SC off my car and mail it to whipple for repair..... :( Good luck moving forward though!

Monk

iTrader: (3)

I am here primarily to troll.

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

There are some pics. I took an absolute buttload of pics but didn't post the vast majority of them. It's a ways back at this point.
Thanks! And tough luck on the blower, sorry to hear that. AX100 right? What does it cost to fix one of those things? I had to get some quotes to fix a M45 a while back and going to Whipple directly wasn't cost effective. I then we ended up sending it to Magnuson? This was probably 10 years ago now so take that with a grain of salt.


We've never questioned your motivation ...or orientation.

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

FedEx pushed back delivery on the damper install tool to Weds. Buh.

Depending on what replies I get to my emails, and what (if any) corrective actions need to be taken, engine might go in this weekend. Gesso is awesome and he's going to let me use his garage/lift/hoist to do so I'll most likly drop the engine at his place some time this week. I need to figure out more beer to bribe thank him with.

Should this NOT happen, I won't get another stab at getting the engine in until some time in August. But that's OK! I'm not in a mad panic to get this done but I would like to stay on schedule if possible. I'd rather do this RIGHT than do it FAST at this point.

patsmx5

iTrader: (16)

Yeah it's the W100AX. I pulled it and it has a dead oil seal, and the rotors have a bit of scuffing near the gear side of the blower. Compressor boost/spins fine, but it's worn away the coating in a few spots and you can see the aluminum so I dunno if that's normal/bad/oh crap.

I also don't know what the price will be to repair it. It's less than 1yr old so techincally under warranty, but they said they will have to inspect and diagnose why/what failed before saying if it will be repaired under warranty. Fingers crossed!

I'm also doing some mods to get the blower cooler, as I'm assuming it's a heat-related failure as that seal went from perfect to dead the day went from 21 to 28 PSI. And I'm within the SC RPM/Pressure limits but it died literally the first time I drove it with the new pulley.

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

Does it look like the timing is fucked up in this image? Shouldn't the 10 and the T each be lined up with a mark on the damper? Granted, I'm going from memory here and the damper is not pushed on all the way, but look at the timing marks on the pulley compared to the timing cover.

I'll check this with the FSM when I get home or I'll never be able to sleep again.

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

Also, the more I look at my mocked up coolant lines, the more I don't like them. I may order some banjo fittings for the turbo and see if I can come out the top, and then connect to some sort of BEGI style block bolted to the head? We'll see. I just do not like those long unsupported runs back to the front of the motor, it gives me the heebie jeebies.

patsmx5

iTrader: (16)

I've never used that damper, so I don't know what those marks are.

Easy way to tell though, just pull a spark plug, drop a long extension onto the piston and rotate the motor to find TDC, then you'll know for sure which mark is TDC, and can copare the marks and cam timing.

Also I swear from that pic the timing belt tension looks loose on the top. Is it? It may just be the pic/angle making it appear not-tight. I run mine pretty tight.

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

The marks *should* be in the factory location in relationship to TDC and the crank keyway, but seeing as I still have all the factory parts on the bench and the damper is not torqued, its a simple matter to confirm.

Now that I've stopped hyperventilating I realized this was probably after I spun the crank to set the belt, so no guarantee I put it back at TDC when I was done. Its a simple enough matter to pull of the cover and confirm.

As for the belt, I followed the process in the FSM for setting tension but yes, it does look loose. The FSM gives a deflection number but I don't have a tension/deflection gauge. Sounds like its time to invest in another $20 monotasking tool

hornetball

iTrader: (4)

Based on the cam sprocket marks, you should be at TDC (unless the belt has slipped on the crank sprocket). Something seems amiss. Crank sprocket and pulley rotate twice for each rotation of the cam sprockets. And gauging TDC with a rod in the #1 spark plug hole like Pat mentioned is tried-and-true.

patsmx5

iTrader: (16)

I tension the **** out of my timing belts. I probably overdo it to be honest... I push on the tensioner pretty hard and then torque it down, the deflection is very little when I'm done with it. I don't have a gauge but I should get one...

codrus

AFAICT, the blue Gates just looks like that. Here's mine:



IIRC, the marks are supposed to line up offset like that at TDC. That is, the leftmost of the two marks lines up with the 0 at TDC.

--Ian

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

Awesome Ian, thanks for the confirmation

I'll have to check your build thread and see what you ended up doing with the Toda gear. I've been in lust with it for a while, but the juice is probably not worth the squeeze for me atm.

Tension tool ordered anyway. Amazon Prime ninja shipping says it'll show up here tomorrow

DNMakinson

iTrader: (3)

<p>Correct on timing marks. Both line up at 10*BTDC.&nbsp;</p>

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

Cliffs: I don't need timing gear right now.
Multiple conformations are always appreciated

See? I'd have prop'd all you guys for being helpful. Just think of all the props you are missing out on!