18psi

iTrader: (76)

U W0T M8?
it wires the wg open, drops cells above 105kpa a couple degrees from basemap, and breaks in the car turbo

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

I've mentioned it like 6 times in the last month and no one has called me out on it. Is this a terrible idea or something?

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

With an EFR waste gate I bet you won't have issues.
<br />I ran a track session with no wastegate actuator and ran no boost at all to redline. I bet your wastegate flows even better.

patsmx5

iTrader: (16)

I've done it both ways, and both work well. My most recent motor I broke it in NA since I had changed a ton of things on the car, I wanted to shake it down without any more potential problems from the SC. It turned out to be the right call as I had issues with the SC that would have interferred with the break in.

My 2 cents is either way works, safest is do it NA and then do turbo stuff.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

I would do it turbo and not waste time installing/un-installing everything for the umpteenth time
This way you get to flesh out any leaks or other issues from the turbo plumbing while breaking in and while just finalizing everything.
If the wg is as good as they say it is on those, you should have no problems keeping boost down.

patsmx5

iTrader: (16)

To add to Vlad, if you've done a turbo setup before, you're pretty safe wiring the gate open. If this is your first time putting a turbo setup together and you aren't 100% sure about your work/parts/etc regarding the turbo stuff, then I'd leave it off for breakin if that makes you happy inside.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

<p>To play devils advocate, the speed at which G can swap parts means that he will have no issues installing the turbo. And the peace of mind that N/A will give you might be worth it.</p>

codrus

I agree, break the car in with the turbo. Doing it NA is stupid.

--Ian

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

Outside of this weekend, the next opportunity I'll have to install the motor is August 22nd. I mean, I can wait another month to make any progress if that's what you'd like to see

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

Hello stock friend


This will be replacing you soon enough!


That's right, we do things the "hard way"

Also should note, that muffled POP! sound you just heard was Jeffbucc's head exploding after seeing my subframe.


Strip all the accessories!


Gotta remember to give Gesso back his socket


And this is how you don't create a "cursed water plug" on a BP4W when you eliminate the oil warmer/cooler loop


Somewhat thicker than expected.


After Gesso drilled and tapped the stub, 3/8NPT plug to the rescue! Done and done!


Welcome to your new home! Also: I now officially cannot stand that paint color mismatch on the nose

At this point we spent an hour trying to prime the oil pump with the MityVac. Sufficed to say that was a wasted hour. Pulled the fuel pump relay and cranked on it with loose plugs until the gauge showed a couple PSI. I think it took 2-3 cycles of 20 second bursts to make 4~5 psi. Phew! Tighten the plugs, add the relay, crank once to purge the air from the fuel system and off she went! Much to my amazement and with some encouragement from the throttle it started on the first try! We idled it up to temp with the nose in the air to burp the coolant system and then it was off for the start of break-in.


That's right haters, stock TB, airbox and MAF. Come at me bro!

I did this because the airbox and maf will provide the same restriction I tuened with, thus keeping my fuel map in check. I really wanted to make sure it did't get stupid and lean while I was trying to watch other things.

First oil change....


Fancy magnet drain plug soaking up the ferrous particulate.


Nice and clean! Ready to go in for round 2!


lol Gesso sneaking pics of me trying to ziptie my undertray back in place.

On another note, my oil temp sender died on Sunday. My VEI oil and coolant temp gauges use the same senders and they are both displaying the same failure mode. I am somewhat unhappy about this development and my consider switching to another brand. One of the sensors died about 30 days after install, this second one didn't last a year. This is unacceptable.

So all in all a good weekend. The 949 damper is kinda a pain to install, and Amsoil Break-In SAE30 oil gets REALLY THIN when it gets hot. Before the sender **** the bed I was seeing oil temps in excess of 210°F. It always made solid and predictable pressure but I was seeing 10psi at idle at that temp. The other engine with the same gauge and sender setup was making slightly more pressure with much heavier oil so I'm not super concerned about it at the moment. I've got another 80 miles on this second fill of SAE30 before I change it for some Rotella T (not T6) and we'll see what she does with some oil with a legitimate viscosity.

Big thanks to PatCleary and Gesso for sacrificing their weekend to indulge me in my insanity

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

<p>I'm having a pain in the *** time with my VEI gauges right now too if you didn't see the thread.</p><p>I want a fancy drain plug, u haz amazn prim link?</p>

good2go

iTrader: (2)

This is becoming rather disturbing.

Good to see the progress there G.

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

Build thread or elsewhere? My VEI AFR/vac-boost gauge has been no picnic either.

butt plugs: MiataRoadster magnetic oil drain plugs MAZDA - MiataRoadster - High-performance customer service...and parts for Roadsters

I ordered them the same time I ordered my shifter. I've got one for the trans and one for the diff as well. They are expensive as hell but really, really well made. Back in the day I found one with a magnet that Mazda sold for the diff and it also fit in the trans, but the magnets are nowhere near as powerful as the MR ones. They are very much cheaper though

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

<p>https://www.miataturbo.net/general-m...4/#post1251613</p>

18psi

iTrader: (76)

Geoff was just trying to get a nice shot of that sexy pose, don't pretend it was car related

'Grats on getting her in and running sir.

That other pop you heard after Jeff's head exploaded was my head exploading too. Packing up my power washer now

Rallas

iTrader: (9)

Glad to see you are making progress!

hornetball

iTrader: (4)

Congrats. Must feel good after all this time.

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

Paint me like one of your french amateur mechanics?

That's no threat, there is no water here to run it.

Thanks guys! Cautious optimism at the moment, but the progress feels wooooooonnnnnnnderful

I didn't drive it to work today, but I probably will for the rest of the week to put some more miles on it.

patsmx5

iTrader: (16)

First, didn't know those drain plugs existed! Probably gonna get one for my motor.

Second, 10 PSI oil pressure at idle is fine, so long as it comes up to normal spec once you get the revs up. Do you know what the pressure is at 3K? If 40+ at 3K I wouldn't worry about it at all.

On oil, Look into using Castrol GTX over the Rotella, it has a better shear strength, which means better bearing life at high revs and is cheap too. I actually saw a difference in bearing wear switching from Rotella to Castrol in my BP motors (some wear with Rotella, none with castrol despite reving even higher with the castrol).

I had no idea that rear water thing had a wall thickness like that. I was scared to cut mine and try to tap it figuring it was probably super thin. I'll do that too next time I have the head off of my car! Thanks for posting those pics/info on that!

Jeffbucc

Yeah your whole engine bay is making me cringe...I'll forgive you since you are in the middle of building it right now!