18psi

iTrader: (76)

Exxxxxcelllllent

Jeffbucc

If we all make it to MRLS again, I hope all our cars are done and perfected by then. Be fun to swap cars for a while. I had fun in Ed's.

The only reason I'd want to run a turbo blanket is it takes up less space in the engine bay. Was annoying to remove the FM heat shield every time I need to get in that area.

*edit* I better have my damn tow setup figured out by then. That drive annihilated me.

curly

iTrader: (25)

GreddyGalant has a MSM cross over pipe as well, you know, in case you need a third.

We opted to flip his, gets rid of that damn cross over pipe being heated up constantly by the turbo manifold.

See his thread, he wins for "most modified MSM mixing manifold".

codrus

The point to the AN fitting line is not to hold pressure, it's to have a piece that can be removed and reinstalled without requiring a knife. Once a push-on hose has been sitting underneath the turbo for a few thousand miles it is not coming off by pulling. It doesn't need to be stainless, that's just the easiest stuff to build your own lines with.

--Ian

turbofan

iTrader: (1)

I won't be going to MRLS this year, but I'll be there next year. Gotta be an every-other-year thing for me.

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

I'll look into it, the clamps and hose was because I already had everything sitting here left over from one of the others turbos I was playing with. The EFR actually has a tapped 5/8" NPT port on the bottom, along with the 2 bolt flange? I'll look it up.

AN would be super easy but I hate how stainless cuts through everything. I'll take a look at BatINC and see if they have some sort of line material that might be appropriate in black. I really don't dig the blue and red fittings.
It needs more holes first.
We were! or at least I was. I thought I was anyway.
It "shouldn't" because its a giant mass of cast stainless, but I guess we'll see.
If I don't have a turbo in my car by October I'm dousing the whole car in vodka and lighting it on fire.
I actually had an FM2 heatshield and cold air box. Unfortunately neither of them would fit with the this combination.

The manifold and downpipe combo are amazing, but there are A LOT of very "thermally expressive" parts mounted very high up in the engine bay. Of immediate concern is the master cylinder, because that keeps me from dying. Thermal control is something I will have to address. I'm just not sure what that solution will look like at this time.
14 hours straight in what almost amounts to as a racecar will do that to you.
Yup, if I need another, I know where to look. Thanks Curly
Is heating the tube really that big a deal? I mean, yeah its adding heat back into the motor, but its coming from the heater core so it should be much cooler already? I know the flipped manifold works, but it requires a lot of additional work and uglies things up with additional hoses and such.
My thoughts exactly. It would be done for convenience, and it would most likely not be stainless.
That's completely understandable, I know it was quite a haul for you as well. It was still great meeting everyone though!

codrus

There really isn't much under the turbo for it to cut into, especially if you drill the pan in the spot between the subframe and motor mount so that the drain hose goes straight down. The blue and red fittings are also almost entirely hidden and you can't really see them unless you crawl under the car.

--Ian

18psi

iTrader: (76)

your multi-quote skills are exquisite my good sir

good day

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

I gotcha, I just don't like the SS stuff. I'll look into an AN solution though, it looks like Soviet did the same in his thread.

DNMakinson

iTrader: (3)

Status on the broken stud. I looked through the thread and didn't see a resolution. Anyone suggest welding another bolt to it and backing it out?

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Quoted for follow-through

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

I think he was just going to take it to a machine shop. Otherwise he would just break it more from what I've heard about his skills.

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

No resolution as of yet.

I was in Arizona for a couple of days this week so no time to screw with things. I'll be back there again on Monday so that isn't exactly helping my timeline. I've struck out up to now as the local redneck machine shops scare me. I've made contact with a place in the bay area that has an EDM, we are still exchanging messages.

I believe I mentioned this earlier. I'm going to try to convince Gesso to take a crack at it with his TIG before I mail it somewhere for EDM work. Its already fucked, it'll be pretty hard to **** it up any worse. Not that I think he'll make it worse, but you get the idea.
kek. Like I said before, I know exactly how to fix this, and I have the skills to do so. If I tried it with my current toolset I would just trash it even further. I know my limits and I know not to **** with it at this point. So

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

I was referring to your skills at inexplicably breaking things, not your actual machining skills

bahurd

iTrader: (8)

Doable just make sure you use the right filler rod. Inconel 625 works IIRC for steel to Inconel.

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

Ohh, I gotcha. Yeah, I'm good at finding interesting and unique ways of breaking things.

I'll have to talk to Gesso and see if he has access to rods he thinks will work. The USAF seems to think he can weld F16s back together so this should be cake

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

As I'm waiting for parts again I figured I'd do something a little CR while I have time.



$25 shipped wasn't so bad. Lets see if I can ruin these things too.

Mobius

iTrader: (2)

Why did you buy butt plugs from CR?

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

Who says I bought them from CR? Ebay is the bestest place for buttplugs, I speak from expierence.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

Actually I want to get a set of those too. I almost never have passengers and feel like the AC is wasted in the summer by having the passenger vents open all the time.

Eclipse 3rd gen right?