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Old 02-11-2015, 12:14 PM   #801
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Exxxxxcelllllent
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Old 02-11-2015, 12:16 PM   #802
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If we all make it to MRLS again, I hope all our cars are done and perfected by then. Be fun to swap cars for a while. I had fun in Ed's.

The only reason I'd want to run a turbo blanket is it takes up less space in the engine bay. Was annoying to remove the FM heat shield every time I need to get in that area.

*edit* I better have my damn tow setup figured out by then. That drive annihilated me.
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Old 02-11-2015, 12:39 PM   #803
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GreddyGalant has a MSM cross over pipe as well, you know, in case you need a third.

We opted to flip his, gets rid of that damn cross over pipe being heated up constantly by the turbo manifold.

See his thread, he wins for "most modified MSM mixing manifold".
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Old 02-11-2015, 01:36 PM   #804
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turboman17 View Post

Since the oil leaving out of the bearing housing through the oil drain is just gravity feed and not pressurized. A threaded fitting and braided line is over kill.
The point to the AN fitting line is not to hold pressure, it's to have a piece that can be removed and reinstalled without requiring a knife. Once a push-on hose has been sitting underneath the turbo for a few thousand miles it is not coming off by pulling. It doesn't need to be stainless, that's just the easiest stuff to build your own lines with.

--Ian
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Old 02-11-2015, 02:54 PM   #805
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I won't be going to MRLS this year, but I'll be there next year. Gotta be an every-other-year thing for me.
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Old 02-11-2015, 11:34 PM   #806
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Why use hose barbs and clamps for the drain? One of my favorite upgrades for the turbo was the stainless -10 AN drain line.
I'll look into it, the clamps and hose was because I already had everything sitting here left over from one of the others turbos I was playing with. The EFR actually has a tapped 5/8" NPT port on the bottom, along with the 2 bolt flange? I'll look it up.

AN would be super easy but I hate how stainless cuts through everything. I'll take a look at BatINC and see if they have some sort of line material that might be appropriate in black. I really don't dig the blue and red fittings.
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Also -- time to put the oil pan on.
It needs more holes first.
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lol who even cares about how the hotside looks? I thought we were all just joking in Jeffs thread.
We were! or at least I was. I thought I was anyway.
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I mean it will turn to dark/brown poopoo looking texture after a few days anyway.
It "shouldn't" because its a giant mass of cast stainless, but I guess we'll see.
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If we all make it to MRLS again, I hope all our cars are done and perfected by then. Be fun to swap cars for a while. I had fun in Ed's.
If I don't have a turbo in my car by October I'm dousing the whole car in vodka and lighting it on fire.
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The only reason I'd want to run a turbo blanket is it takes up less space in the engine bay. Was annoying to remove the FM heat shield every time I need to get in that area.
I actually had an FM2 heatshield and cold air box. Unfortunately neither of them would fit with the this combination.

The manifold and downpipe combo are amazing, but there are A LOT of very "thermally expressive" parts mounted very high up in the engine bay. Of immediate concern is the master cylinder, because that keeps me from dying. Thermal control is something I will have to address. I'm just not sure what that solution will look like at this time.
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*edit* I better have my damn tow setup figured out by then. That drive annihilated me.
14 hours straight in what almost amounts to as a racecar will do that to you.
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GreddyGalant has a MSM cross over pipe as well, you know, in case you need a third.
Yup, if I need another, I know where to look. Thanks Curly
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We opted to flip his, gets rid of that damn cross over pipe being heated up constantly by the turbo manifold.
Is heating the tube really that big a deal? I mean, yeah its adding heat back into the motor, but its coming from the heater core so it should be much cooler already? I know the flipped manifold works, but it requires a lot of additional work and uglies things up with additional hoses and such.
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The point to the AN fitting line is not to hold pressure, it's to have a piece that can be removed and reinstalled without requiring a knife. Once a push-on hose has been sitting underneath the turbo for a few thousand miles it is not coming off by pulling. It doesn't need to be stainless, that's just the easiest stuff to build your own lines with.
My thoughts exactly. It would be done for convenience, and it would most likely not be stainless.
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I won't be going to MRLS this year, but I'll be there next year. Gotta be an every-other-year thing for me.
That's completely understandable, I know it was quite a haul for you as well. It was still great meeting everyone though!
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Old 02-12-2015, 12:07 AM   #807
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Quote:
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AN would be super easy but I hate how stainless cuts through everything. I'll take a look at BatINC and see if they have some sort of line material that might be appropriate in black. I really don't dig the blue and red fittings.
There really isn't much under the turbo for it to cut into, especially if you drill the pan in the spot between the subframe and motor mount so that the drain hose goes straight down. The blue and red fittings are also almost entirely hidden and you can't really see them unless you crawl under the car.

--Ian
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Old 02-12-2015, 12:17 AM   #808
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your multi-quote skills are exquisite my good sir

good day
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Old 02-12-2015, 02:11 PM   #809
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Quote:
Originally Posted by codrus View Post
There really isn't much under the turbo for it to cut into, especially if you drill the pan in the spot between the subframe and motor mount so that the drain hose goes straight down. The blue and red fittings are also almost entirely hidden and you can't really see them unless you crawl under the car.

--Ian
I gotcha, I just don't like the SS stuff. I'll look into an AN solution though, it looks like Soviet did the same in his thread.
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your multi-quote skills are exquisite my good sir

good day
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Old 02-13-2015, 04:46 PM   #810
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Status on the broken stud. I looked through the thread and didn't see a resolution. Anyone suggest welding another bolt to it and backing it out?
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Old 02-13-2015, 04:49 PM   #811
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Quote:
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If I don't have a turbo in my car by October I'm dousing the whole car in vodka and lighting it on fire.
Quoted for follow-through
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Old 02-13-2015, 04:50 PM   #812
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Status on the broken stud. I looked through the thread and didn't see a resolution. Anyone suggest welding another bolt to it and backing it out?
I think he was just going to take it to a machine shop. Otherwise he would just break it more from what I've heard about his skills.
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Old 02-13-2015, 05:33 PM   #813
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Status on the broken stud. I looked through the thread and didn't see a resolution. Anyone suggest welding another bolt to it and backing it out?
No resolution as of yet.

I was in Arizona for a couple of days this week so no time to screw with things. I'll be back there again on Monday so that isn't exactly helping my timeline. I've struck out up to now as the local redneck machine shops scare me. I've made contact with a place in the bay area that has an EDM, we are still exchanging messages.

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Anyone suggest welding another bolt to it and backing it out?
I believe I mentioned this earlier. I'm going to try to convince Gesso to take a crack at it with his TIG before I mail it somewhere for EDM work. Its already fucked, it'll be pretty hard to **** it up any worse. Not that I think he'll make it worse, but you get the idea.
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Otherwise he would just break it more from what I've heard about his skills.
kek. Like I said before, I know exactly how to fix this, and I have the skills to do so. If I tried it with my current toolset I would just trash it even further. I know my limits and I know not to **** with it at this point. So
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Old 02-13-2015, 05:37 PM   #814
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I was referring to your skills at inexplicably breaking things, not your actual machining skills
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Old 02-13-2015, 06:00 PM   #815
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I believe I mentioned this earlier. I'm going to try to convince Gesso to take a crack at it with his TIG before I mail it somewhere for EDM work.
Doable just make sure you use the right filler rod. Inconel 625 works IIRC for steel to Inconel.
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Old 02-13-2015, 06:37 PM   #816
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I was referring to your skills at inexplicably breaking things, not your actual machining skills
Ohh, I gotcha. Yeah, I'm good at finding interesting and unique ways of breaking things.

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Doable just make sure you use the right filler rod. Inconel 625 works IIRC for steel to Inconel.
I'll have to talk to Gesso and see if he has access to rods he thinks will work. The USAF seems to think he can weld F16s back together so this should be cake
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Old 02-13-2015, 07:35 PM   #817
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As I'm waiting for parts again I figured I'd do something a little CR while I have time.



$25 shipped wasn't so bad. Lets see if I can ruin these things too.
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Old 02-13-2015, 07:37 PM   #818
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Why did you buy butt plugs from CR?
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Old 02-13-2015, 07:42 PM   #819
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Who says I bought them from CR? Ebay is the bestest place for buttplugs, I speak from expierence.
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Old 02-13-2015, 08:32 PM   #820
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Actually I want to get a set of those too. I almost never have passengers and feel like the AC is wasted in the summer by having the passenger vents open all the time.

Eclipse 3rd gen right?
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