EO2K

iTrader: (37)

Speaking of -10...



Mocal -10 45° and straight fittings are here, along with the last couple -6 fittings I need for my fuel system. Or maybe they were for the turbo coolant? Can't remember. The -10 hose was supposed to be Mocal but RPW substituted in Aeroquip Startlite on me because they apparently ran out. Same temperature rating so it shouldn't be an issue. Fire sleeve got drop shipped from the manufacturer so it'll be here later this week.

Also shown is the -10 weld bung I won't be using

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

Stupid Russel -10 drain adapter pictured earlier is not the correct part. I'll have to look around and see what actually fits and send this one back.

I also discovered that plumbing the coolant for this thing is going to be a nightmare. Due to the position of the WGA bracket I have almost zero room on that side to work. I need to go scope out some other peoples builds and see how they routed their plumbing

patsmx5

iTrader: (16)

Agreed. My new setup doesn't even have a wastegate! Limit boost, nonsense!!!!

patsmx5

iTrader: (16)

Find my build thread on here, it's old but I did -10AN drain. It's been on the car for 7 or 8 years, never leaked. Might be an option for you I dunno.

Jeffbucc

120* degree -6an coolant fitting either tight bend or normal will make clearance a breeze on the manifold side of the turbo.

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

Drain is figured out, I still need to figure out how to plumb the coolant.

Humm. Mocal makes a 120° but I'm not sure its going to help. I've got a couple clearance pics I'll post tomorrow.

99mx5 did this:


I can setup something similar with some bulkhead fittings, and I believe he has 90° coming off both of the CHRA coolant ports. I should be able to mock that up pretty easily, but I was also going to eliminate my entire front water neck and source coolant from the back of the head. In fact, I was going to eliminate that entire back of the head -> oil warmer -> throttle body -> front water neck loop.

Now I'm toying with the idea of chopping off the neck, welding a plate on the end and tapping it for NPT then converting it to -6. I've got like 3 extra necks in the garage so parts is not an issue. Coolant source from the front of the head, return to the mixing manifold.

Lots of ideas and things to try. I'm not doing any heavy lifting at the moment so plenty of time to screw around with this stuff and get it exactly how I want it.

leboeuf

iTrader: (1)

I welded an npt bung into the water neck. It has been working great! You could possibly get a 3/8" in there; mine is a 1/4" (which is ~5/16 ID).

patsmx5

iTrader: (16)

If you have a reroute spacer on the rear of the head, you can drill/tap that before the thermostat and source water from there, then just install a freeze plug in the front. I did this, works great.

codrus

I made a blockoff plate for the front out of 3/8" aluminum, drilled/tapped an NPT hole in it, and used it to source the coolant for the turbo. Functionally the same as leboeuf's, but easier to reverse later.



--Ian

18psi

iTrader: (76)

for all you guys that are threading in like that, are you not concerned about vibrations causing leaks in the future?

I mean the stocker is giant, o-ringed, and with 2 big bolts just to keep it from leaking

codrus

I put 10K miles on mine, including a half-dozen track days, no leaks.

The stocker is significantly heavier than the simple pipe/elbow/barb I have, so vibration is going to introduce a lot more force onto it.

--Ian

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Water neck is ugly, take coolant from the throttle body area, route the hose behind the timing covers and profit. Return line to mixing manifold.

codrus

If you're using a skunk2 there are no coolant ports on the throttle body. With those gone and a proper oil cooler, there's no reason to run that cold-side coolant loop at all.

--Ian

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Food for thought:

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

That was my concern as well, I'd want to keep it as short as possible and make sure the lines are supported by something other than the fitting, like a padded adel clamp. This was also why I wanted to mod the factory neck, its beefy for what it is and designed to support the thermostat and upper rad hose.

Props guys, I appreciate the pics. Leboeuf, you did pretty much exactly what I was talking about, but I'd be using a 90 instead of a T. That would also make for a convenient mounting location for a low pressure sender as well, so I can put a big obnoxious alarm in the car somewhere.

Exactly. Skunk2 TB crew checking in.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

There is still a water port over there.

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

I also refuse to flip my mixing manifold. I feel like it causes more problems than it solves.

lolwut? This may be a 1.6 vs 1.8 thing. You 1.6 guys have some goofy coolant through the manifold thing IIRC, the 1.8 has the loop I described earlier.

timk

Dunno if this helps, but my engine is an MSM engine but I've added a -6 fitting for the coolant return and use the feed on the block:

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Is there really no water port on the 1.8? How does the oil cooler/warmer get water and the throttle body.

I have literally never touched a (running) 1.8 so spoon feed me.

codrus

There is a coolant port on the back of the head. Coolant goes from the thermostat neck to the throttle body, from there to the oil warmer, and from there to the port on the head.

After losing one of those stupid little hoses at Laguna a few years ago (which precipitated my original engine build) I left them off. Don't need no oil warmer, don't need no throttle body warmer.

I like feeding the turbo through between the thermostat neck area and the mixing manifold because that seems like the way to get the most pressure/flow through the turbo, going pretty much straight from the outlet of the water pump to the inlet.

--Ian