EO2K

iTrader: (37)

Hablando del diablo...


ˇNuevo cinturón azul!


ˇNuevo bomba de agua! (Thats the end of my spanish for today)


It even came with a thermostat gasket, how nice of them.

More stuff should turn up tomorrow, I should probably go pick up a gallon of acetone and see who sells VHT locally.

Anyone actually use primer/color/clear on a block or have you guys just shot color? I can't remember what I did for my FE but I know it was all VHT and its held up great so far.

Girz0r

iTrader: (1)

dat hello kitty mouse pad

Jeffbucc

I do not recommend the clear unless it is a 2 pak expensive can of it. My diff has already started to yellow and I prepped the **** out of it, put tons of coats down, and used a decently nice 2 pak.

hornetball

iTrader: (4)

Mmmmmm . . . Made in USA . . . .

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

My coworkers surprised me with that one morning. BecauseMiata.
Good to know, I will keep this in mind. I'm not sure I used clear when I did my truck. The last time I used clear was on my intake manifold and I'm sure we all remember how that turned out...
Sadly, not enough of these around these days :(

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

Hey, all the ARP studs are Made in the USA so I got that going for me

I just realized I can't paint the block until I get the pan on, and I can't put the pan on until it has extra holes added. I was going to have Gesso weld up some threaded bungs in the pan like we did with the last one, but it would probably help if I gave him the pan...

Anyway, big pack of gaskets showed up today. I'll probably try to make some progress this weekend by installing the oil and water pumps, and maybe the rear main carrier if I can get my torque wrench between the back of the block and the stand.

I was going to clear the exposed aluminum on the pump, but maybe I'll just leave it alone now.

codrus

Why can't you paint it without the pan on? Masking tape and plastic sheeting should work for the oil pan surface just fine, no?

IMHO if you're gonna paint the block you should do it with as little stuff on it as possible. I didn't bother to paint mine, so it's still a mix of old factory paint and surface rust... whatever.

--Ian

curly

iTrader: (25)

Yeah, I just painted Mobius's block with absolutely nothing on. Wipe some grease on the oil filter surface, and put a bolt in the 2 oil holes. Lock your stand diagonally, and paint one side at a time.

rwyatt365

^This

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

Eh, I guess that's true. If I can find paint locally I'll probably shoot it this weekend.

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

So some paint happened:

That is Dupli-Color DE1651 Ceramic Cast Coat Iron Engine Paint. Underneath that is VHT SP148 Engine Enamel Light Gray Primer, because thats what I had lying around, probably left over from when I did my Ford. I was really hoping it would be darker, but it'll do. Hopefully it holds up well. Obviously I've unmasked most of the block in that shot, I didn't paint it with the bottom end open like that

I started wiping down the gasket surfaces with acetone and suddenly a bunch of things happened...

Boundary oil pump, Gates fancy impeller water pump, front main, rear main carrier (no main yet) most of the timing set, Supermiata harmonic damper, and the oil cooler/warmer.

Supermiata damper AND Boundary pump? Yes, I'm a belt and suspenders kind of guy. Do it once, do it right.


Fancy Boundary pump #341: street/strip (aka High Flow Pump) with +1 shim.


Front main was already installed in the pump. It made the installation only slight more challenging as I had to run the end of a zip tie around the seal while pressing it onto to crank to get it to pop on without flipping inside out and disgorging the tension spring. Also in the bottom of the image you can see the block to pump O-Ring. Sharp eyes will notice something missing...


That would be this little ******. It plugs the hole where the FWD dipstick tube goes through the pump body. I put a very small amount of superblack in the bore and then drove that little bastard into its new home. The sealer was probably unneeded as it took quite a bit of whacking to get it flush with the pump body. Aggressive hammering on a very expensive pump will definitely make you pucker.

About the Supermiata damper... I chose to go with the 4T wheel because I am not smart and I know my stock ECU and the MS3 are already set up for it. The thing that impressed me about the timing wheel is that there is literally no way to put it on incorrectly. As long as you can get all 8 tiny little screws in there you are golden. The threaded holes could have been a little clener, but a quick blast with some brake cleaner cured that little issue. I installed the screws with blue loctite.

I'd also like to point out that the damper is not installed all the way. Its slipped on to the crank about 1/4" and its held in place by the bolt. I just wanted to see what it looked like on there.

I'm also not dead set on re-installing the oil heater/cooler. its on there now but it could easily come off again. In the future I see myself installing an oil cooler on this engine and I feel like the fewer things jacking with my oil supply, the better. I'm also not married to my oil temp/pressure sender sandwich plate. Need to figure out how I'm going to do all this moving forward. I need to find someone who has done this and go stalk their build thread.

codrus

Is the SuperMiata damper as much of a PITA to install as the ATI one?

Note that unless you get creative, you'll probably need to retain the oil/water heat exchanger as a spacer if nothing else. Sandwhich plates generally don't fit directly against the block because the ribbing is in the way.

I didn't go into a lot of detail on the oil stuff in my build thread, but I have:

- Stock heat exchanger used as a spacer (no water plumbed to it)
- Mocal thermostat sandwich plate (the one FM uses, although I bought it from Summit)
- Stock filter

I then have a pair of -10 AN fittings in the Mocal sandwich plate (FM supplies -8s, but IMHO that's not big enough), and braided stainless lines going to a -10 cooler mounted on the FM brackets (attaches via the steering rack bolts).

At one point I had a remote filter adapter installed as well, and mounted the filter on the firewall. I took this out, mainly because I wanted the space for the ABS pump when I was transplanting ABS into the car.

At the moment I don't have an oil temp sender installed, although I do have an inline -10 AN male/female fitting with a 1/8 NPT hole in it, which is intended for this purpose. I couldn't find a spare sender for my oil temp gauge when I was putting the motor together, so I decided I'd fix that later.

Digging through my spare shots of the motor before I put it in, I found one of the oil setup:



The AN fittings are black and camouflaged against the block.

--Ian

curly

iTrader: (25)

Bets on who's engine finishes first? Yours or Mobius? I put paint on his Friday, but haven't touched it since. Rotating assembly isn't even going out for balancing until tomorrow. ATI damper here. I'm very excited that you've called it a giant PITA to install!

hornetball

iTrader: (4)

Curious about the damper and TB changes. Are you able to slip the TB around the damper, or are we talking about pulling it to change the TB?

curly

iTrader: (25)

I have the ATI damper here in front of me. It has the lower timing sprocket built into it, and yes, requires you to pull it off to perform a timing belt change. I'm assuming 949's is similar.

I'd suggest using the best belt money can buy (gates racing) to avoid having to replace it any time soon.

However, the internet's very first picture from the back of a 949 pulley from the OP would be really helpful...

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

Thanks for the pics Ian! I'll take a look

That's not even a bet, smart money is on Mobius.

It looks like you will have to remove the damper to do it. The damper is not on all the way yet, but I'll try to poke my nose in there and let you know.

That was my logic as well. Blue belt is in my box o'parts.

What's it worth to you?

codrus

It's a press fit, and takes quite a bit of force to wrench it down. You need a longer bolt than factory, because there aren't enough threads on the factory bolt to pull it on. You need to keep taking the longer bolt out adding washers, and then putting it back in. It's either an M12 or M14 bolt (I forget threads) which isn't something they had at any local store, so I needed to order it.

And yes, the TB pulley is integral, so you need a third hand to hold the TB up, teeth engaged with the pulley. Then for some reason when I put mine on this time the woodruff key got cocked and the pulley was machining it as I wrenched it down. There's also an intricate dance of which bolts and plastic covers need to be installed before the pulley, and which ones afterwards.

Anyway, it's a PITA to install, but I haven't blown up an oil pump yet, so...

--Ian

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

Haha, I got in on the first group buy for the Supermiata Damper specifically so I wouldn't have to 1.) deal with the ATI dance and 2.) buy a Boundary pump. Then magically a pump fell in my lap. I didn't complain much

codrus

There was no SuperMiata damper when I bought mine. The damper seemed like the right solution because it fixes the cause rather than the symptom. Of course, now I have both as well. The car makes 25 psi of oil pressure at idle! Of course, that's with straight 30 weight in it, it'll probably go down with real oil.

--Ian

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

Funny how life works out that way.

Ian, what pump did you end up buying? How many shims? I'm guessing that 25psi figure is fully warmed up?