aidandj

iTrader: (5)

oop.

1 for traction control. 2 for abs.

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

I believe this is correct, but do all axles have the boss for the ring? So while I may not need a whole axle, I'll probably need a ring at least.

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

Ok, that's better.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Read the thread I linked.

NB axles are segregated. ABS and non-ABS.

Advanced Auto sells ABS axles for $80 a piece.

My plan is to find a cheap torsen, and sell my axles and spare driveshaft and buy abs axles new.

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

You don't buy things new, who is this?

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

I buy things new when I can sell my used things for just as much

My axles are so nasty right now. The cv joint grease is brown.

Monk

iTrader: (3)

I'm posting the picture anyway because it's awesome.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Dawww, kitty and my axle rings!

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

Hahaha! Beer, cat AND useful picture. Many invisible props awarded.

Part of me thinks I should get both uprights, just in case. Comments?

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

If monk wants to be your sugar daddy too then go for it. But i already dibsed the rings.

I bought 2 rear uprights for 125 from ISellMiataParts.

@Leafy do the advanced auto parts axles come with ABS rings?

Monk

iTrader: (3)

I don't need it for a while, so I will happily trade my ABS uprights for you non-ABS uprights.

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

Oo! I like where this is going! I assume the uprights come with sensors? This actually fits in well with my pending rear ARP stud install. I'd imagine is much easier to do with the uprights NOT in the car. Rear bearings too, just to be safe.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Mine

Monk

iTrader: (3)

Yep. Pulled the sensors for Aidan.
I watch the scrap yards like a hawk though, so I will pull any if I find them.

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

unintelligible grunting

Cools. I'll try to send you a PM tonight and we can work out details.

codrus

If you're wiling to pull it in with a nut (which Savington says not to do, but I've done a zillion times and it seems to work fine as long as you're careful) then it's actually easier to do it on the car because that stops the upright from flopping around.

(for reference, I use a conical lug nut washer to hold the nut, enough other washers to space it out so that the threads don't bottom out, carefully align the stud splines with the groves that the previous one semi-pressed into the hub, lube everything up generously, and do it with hand tools, not an impact wrench).

I couldn't get the axles out when it came time to do the rear bearings, so I took it to a shop.

--Ian

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

I also want to do rear and front bearings, so I'm happy I have 4 uprights out of the car.

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

Ian: Rear bearings and studs in the rear hubs at the same time, shipping overlap on a set of rear uprights would make life super easy

Aidan: Fronts are easy, provided you have the big socket and a beefy torque wrench.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

I have harbor freight tools. And a big air compressor. I can do rear axles with my **** though, cant be that bad.

codrus

Cheap impact wrenches are often defeated by the front axle nuts. My Ingersoll Rand laughs at them, though. IIRC it's 29mm for front nuts and 32mm for rears.

I dunno what the right procedure is for getting seized axles out of rear uprights. Hammers & presses apparently mushroom the shaft and then you're hosed.

--Ian