Nothing to see here, just project Sisyphus, move along
#201
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****. I just re-read Ari/99mx5's build thread. It looks like we have the same turbo and very nearly the same manifold.
Now I have fear.
I need to figure out how to adapt my Turbosmart IWG-75 to the EFR so I can not die. I'm about 98% sure its the same exact internals on all of Turbosmart's actuators, they probably just change the mounting brackets and rod lengths for the specific fitments. I know TS has an adjustable with specific fitment for the B1 frame EFR but I'd rather not buy a whole another $200+ actuator when all I need is the stupid bracket. PM'd Fab to see if he can get me just the mounting bracket.
Oh, also need to order a 5psi spring for said actuator. Plus a much, much larger intercooler...
Now I have fear.
I need to figure out how to adapt my Turbosmart IWG-75 to the EFR so I can not die. I'm about 98% sure its the same exact internals on all of Turbosmart's actuators, they probably just change the mounting brackets and rod lengths for the specific fitments. I know TS has an adjustable with specific fitment for the B1 frame EFR but I'd rather not buy a whole another $200+ actuator when all I need is the stupid bracket. PM'd Fab to see if he can get me just the mounting bracket.
Oh, also need to order a 5psi spring for said actuator. Plus a much, much larger intercooler...
#203
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Excellent idea however the way I have this all laid out in my head, the manifold should require zero modification to my coolant system routing (this is the ARTech magic) so I can continue to use the fancy Gates Blue silicone lower radiator hose that's on the car now. If I don't jack with anything between the radiator and the water pump inlet then I don't have to buy the FM lower hose.
I already have all the FM silicone from the turbo to the throttle body but I'm about 95% sure I can't use the turbo to intercooler section. The turbo is just too long for it to fit as far as I can tell. The nice part about the NB is the hole behind the headlight that allows me to use the MSM routing like I did with the Rotrex. That or I can abuse Gesso's time and talents with the tig and fabricate some charge pipes. If the turbo to intercooler tube is still around by the time the manifold gets here I'll test fit it, but I'm not going to hold my breath.
Oh! I also now have in my possession a Trackspeed Engineering NB Radiator. My current Koyo radiator will most likely find a new home in one of Gesso's projects
I already have all the FM silicone from the turbo to the throttle body but I'm about 95% sure I can't use the turbo to intercooler section. The turbo is just too long for it to fit as far as I can tell. The nice part about the NB is the hole behind the headlight that allows me to use the MSM routing like I did with the Rotrex. That or I can abuse Gesso's time and talents with the tig and fabricate some charge pipes. If the turbo to intercooler tube is still around by the time the manifold gets here I'll test fit it, but I'm not going to hold my breath.
Oh! I also now have in my possession a Trackspeed Engineering NB Radiator. My current Koyo radiator will most likely find a new home in one of Gesso's projects
#205
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Here is the EFR wastegate actuator chart:
I currently have the "MOSTOFIT" actuator as that's what ships with the B1 frame (I think anyway) and the listed "cracking pressure" @ 3mm of preload is more boost than I want to deal with on a regular basis. New actuator definitely needs to happen. I'm hoping the "SOMEOFIT" actuator or the Turbosmart IWG-75 will have enough throw to bypass enough exhaust to keep things under control at 155kpa.
My ultimate goal here is to make sure that the car isn't a deathmachine on wastegate pressure (so ≤ 200hp) and then use the Hi/Lo boost feature on my MS3-Basic to facilitate face melting stupidity. I'm not interested in 6 speeds/clutches/axles becoming consumables so I'm sure 190~200kpa will be ENOUGHOFIT to scare me half to death anyway.
I currently have the "MOSTOFIT" actuator as that's what ships with the B1 frame (I think anyway) and the listed "cracking pressure" @ 3mm of preload is more boost than I want to deal with on a regular basis. New actuator definitely needs to happen. I'm hoping the "SOMEOFIT" actuator or the Turbosmart IWG-75 will have enough throw to bypass enough exhaust to keep things under control at 155kpa.
My ultimate goal here is to make sure that the car isn't a deathmachine on wastegate pressure (so ≤ 200hp) and then use the Hi/Lo boost feature on my MS3-Basic to facilitate face melting stupidity. I'm not interested in 6 speeds/clutches/axles becoming consumables so I'm sure 190~200kpa will be ENOUGHOFIT to scare me half to death anyway.
Last edited by EO2K; 05-29-2014 at 11:29 AM.
#208
#209
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Awesome, thanks man! I haven't been under your NB in a while, I'm guessing you finally got that gianormous magnaflow in there and finalized the routing around the diff? Get me the parts list and I'm happy to cover materials, that includes electrodes and gas
I think it's a Koyo 37? I'm almost positive its not the 55. I think i've even got the GM hose for you if you want to do a reroue. I'm pretty sure you still have the spacer and KIA water neck sitting on your workbench someplace.
I think it's a Koyo 37? I'm almost positive its not the 55. I think i've even got the GM hose for you if you want to do a reroue. I'm pretty sure you still have the spacer and KIA water neck sitting on your workbench someplace.
#210
looking at
and
it seems like it would be really easy to make this work.
Awesome, thanks man! I haven't been under your NB in a while, I'm guessing you finally got that gianormous magnaflow in there and finalized the routing around the diff? Get me the parts list and I'm happy to cover materials, that includes electrodes and gas
I think it's a Koyo 37? I'm almost positive its not the 55. I think i've even got the GM hose for you if you want to do a reroue. I'm pretty sure you still have the spacer and KIA water neck sitting on your workbench someplace.
I think it's a Koyo 37? I'm almost positive its not the 55. I think i've even got the GM hose for you if you want to do a reroue. I'm pretty sure you still have the spacer and KIA water neck sitting on your workbench someplace.
#211
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If you stopped going on vacation all the time, you'd have more done with your projects! I found your lisls exhaust hanger tool in my toolbox last night, remind me to bring that back up to SC next time I'm there.
Good show on the dimensions. The difference is that my Turbosmart IWG-75 is for a Protegé or some nonsense and the rod length is 140mm. The thread sizes are also different. I believe the EFR may be metric and the IWG-75 is SAE? Either that or they are just different shaft diameters, I forgot to measure.
I disassembled the MOSTOFIT actuator and mounting bracket last night and discovered the mounting bolt hole spacing is almost a match. The bolt spacing on the IWG-75 is about 1/16" wider than the BW. My thoughts now are that I can drill another pair of holes in the BW mounting bracket 90º off from the factory ones and the Turbosmart actuator should bolt right up. As for the pushrod, it should be relatively simple to build some sort of adapter to go from the one size to the other.
This just might work!
Related: I ordered the 5lb spring for the IWG-75 because I'm a giant wuss
Good show on the dimensions. The difference is that my Turbosmart IWG-75 is for a Protegé or some nonsense and the rod length is 140mm. The thread sizes are also different. I believe the EFR may be metric and the IWG-75 is SAE? Either that or they are just different shaft diameters, I forgot to measure.
I disassembled the MOSTOFIT actuator and mounting bracket last night and discovered the mounting bolt hole spacing is almost a match. The bolt spacing on the IWG-75 is about 1/16" wider than the BW. My thoughts now are that I can drill another pair of holes in the BW mounting bracket 90º off from the factory ones and the Turbosmart actuator should bolt right up. As for the pushrod, it should be relatively simple to build some sort of adapter to go from the one size to the other.
This just might work!
Related: I ordered the 5lb spring for the IWG-75 because I'm a giant wuss
#213
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I'll figure something out, just didn't have time to play with it this weekend. I spent 10 of my 48 weekend hours driving, and another 4 hours drinking beer in 105º weather, like a boss.
#214
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I found these on my phone, thought you guys might enjoy
That's right, a 1" wood bit
Take her slow...
Bung in situ
Backside
Gesso with tig
His skills with a tig are obviously better than my skills with a camera
Ta-daa!
Summit Racing® Weld-In Bung 1/2"NPT - SUM-220073
That's right, a 1" wood bit
Take her slow...
Bung in situ
Backside
Gesso with tig
His skills with a tig are obviously better than my skills with a camera
Ta-daa!
Summit Racing® Weld-In Bung 1/2"NPT - SUM-220073
#216
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Earlier this week I spoke to the machine shop that was going to do the cuttin' on my block. I had contacted them last year and they had no problem doing the work, but now it turns out they are "at least 3 months backed up at this point." I know these guys well... they do great work but 3 months is a minimum and it would be a miracle if they delivered in that timeframe.
Ok, so that's not good news. ****!
If I had another local shop I trusted I'd go that route, but the key word in that sentence is "trust." There are other shops out here but I wouldn't trust them to change my oil. I've got a message in to Andrew@TrackSpeed to find out what the leadtime is for a shortblock.
The point of this exercise was to buy the forged goodies over time and built the shortblock myself and save on the assembly. I've got damn near $1000 invested in hardware alone and I don't have the cheddar in my BECAUSERACECAR support fund to re-spend that. I guess I can sell the rods/pistons/bearings/etc and make up 80~90% seeing as its all NIB, plus make up some cash selling my FM2 2560 stuff? I dunno, I'll look into it.
#217
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What machining is holding you up? Boring the block for larger pistons?
Seems like you could ask around for other trusted shops and drive it someplace, then continue with your plan to assemble your own block.
Seems like you could ask around for other trusted shops and drive it someplace, then continue with your plan to assemble your own block.
#218
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Yep. Polishing the crank, bore & hone, and probably super minor deck on the block to prep for MLS headgasket. Maybe setting the ring gaps if I decide not to buy the $50 ring file thing.
I don't mind driving somewhere to drop off the block, but again, I'm basically going to be forced to trust some shop I don't know based on someone elses word. There are a bunch of Spec Miata shops in the area who have experience with BPs, but I'm not paying $750 for what should be $250-$350 worth of machine work, simply because they put "Spec Miata" on their business card.
I'll poke some of the local guys and see what they say.
I don't mind driving somewhere to drop off the block, but again, I'm basically going to be forced to trust some shop I don't know based on someone elses word. There are a bunch of Spec Miata shops in the area who have experience with BPs, but I'm not paying $750 for what should be $250-$350 worth of machine work, simply because they put "Spec Miata" on their business card.
I'll poke some of the local guys and see what they say.