Onyxyth

iTrader: (2)

Any suggestions on getting this ******' bolt out?

I had the torch on the threads & sleeve for a long *** time then hit it with the impact. This worked for the other bolt but this one won't budge. I ended up stripping it a bit (enough that the socket would bind and the impact wasn't "impacting"). I filed it down to 16mm. Not sure what else to try.

Onyxyth

iTrader: (2)

7 months later? I never did get that bolt out. Cleaned up the housing as best I could and threw it back in.

Rear sub was powdercoated and reassembled, reinstalled.

I bought a BP4W head on Craigslist, got the intake, throttle cable, throttle body, sensor pigtails and all for $360. Pretty good deal.

I bought a Supermiata Damper, and heavy double valve springs (bp4w). ACL race bearings (std).

Engine is at the machine shop right now, should be done in a week or two. I'm having them build the short block and I'll do everything else. Head is getting a valve job.

Onyxyth

iTrader: (2)

More updates????

Got some pics from the machine shop. Should be done either late this week or next. I'm having them assemble the short block. I've never built an engine before, so I didn't want to undertake that this time around. Maybe next.




Also, this came a few weeks ago. Mmmmmm

Onyxyth

iTrader: (2)

It's already May? ****. At least I'm getting close now. I picked up a few new things and got my motor back.


Caught one of these while they were in stock:




Prettied this up:





And most importantly I got everything back from the machine shop. I pretty much let them go nuts with the parts.

• Cook&clean block
• "Jetwash" head
• Pressure check head
• Line bore block (with hardware installed)
• Valve job, valve lash adjustment (bp4w, supertech heavy double, stock valves)
• Surface block & head
• Crank polish
• Assemble short block

It ended up being pretty pricey, especially cause they did the bottom end, but this is My First Time™ so I wanted it done right.
The block is painted New Ford Gray - nothing too fancy but better than black I think. It looks really good in the light.



#instagay



Degreased, slightly sanded off some oxidization, and then painted the transmission:
I'm not sure I like the paint. Hopefully it looks better when it's got a bit of road dirt on it. It looks like a plastic model part right now. 1/1 scale Tamiya kit?




No wonder the car always smelled like gas. PO never put the fuel pump cover back on. I don't have the screws for it, but Home Depot did. Cap heads look fancy.




Annnnnnd I also started swapping in the black interior from my other car.


Damn that picture ended up really fuzzy. I don't like that Grant wheel much, it came with the car. Does anyone know what a full tan interior sells for? I have the whole shabang, it's NB1 seats though, for some reason.


So the current plan of attack is to get the motor built and buttoned up - then install it completely naturally aspirated. I think new motor + new Megasquirt + new car (I only briefly ran this thing on the old motor) is too many variables. So I'm going to fire this up NA with the stock ECU and go through the break in process like that, 500 miles or so. After that I'll get the MS in and running well, then add the turbo into the mix. Nice and easy, slow and safe, right? right.

I still need to go through a few things, finishing up the interior, getting brake pads & lines installed, but that's easy stuff.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

updated title

psyber_0ptix

iTrader: (4)

yes

Itty

If you don't mind me asking, how much did it cost to build the bottom end in total? I'm going to do a similar thing, and it will also be my first time building an engine. I want to minimize the possibility for me to screw stuff up.

Onyxyth

iTrader: (2)

You're a doll

It was about $650 in labor for just the block stuff, including $270 for assembly. Plus parts (rods, pistons, rings, bearings). Probably a bit pricey but I'm happy with the work.

Asulen

iTrader: (1)

Enjoying your build so far. I'm just wrapping up my BP4W swap into my 92 Miata; A particular delay has been a native of our lovely state- rust. Your blue car looks to be in really good shape though. Glad you found a good one to work with.

The Trackspeed EFR kit looks great. I'm looking forward to hearing your experience with it when you're finished.

Downmented

iTrader: (1)

Thats pretty on par with what I just spent for my short block, I provided rods and pistons, the machine shop got the bearings himself, because I did not measure the crank, and I paid $1100 assembled.

psyber_0ptix

iTrader: (4)

I think I paid $1300 total for shortblock (blueprinted,balancing, magneflux) and the head work (+1 valves all around, new valve guides). I provided parts. It's worked for at least 5000 miles so far.

Downmented

iTrader: (1)

Your $1300 included the head work? lucky...

Onyxyth

iTrader: (2)

I'm right in the same ballpark then, so that makes me feel good. I didn't have it balanced though.

I thought the blue car was really nice when I bought it, but as I dig in I keep finding issues with rust / PO doing stupid things. I broke one of the bolts that holds the bottom of the driver's side fender on due to rust, so I still have to fix that. It's not the worst I've seen though.

I've been really impressed with the Trackspeed kit and I'm excited to see the downpipe & water/oil lines as they come over the next few weeks.

Itty

Thanks for all the sharing on machining costs guys. Cats awarded to all.

Chiburbian

iTrader: (1)

I really like the color choice for the block. I am contemplating going with a non-black color as well. at what point do you paint it? After machine work but before final assembly? I plan on having mine chemically dipped before it goes to engine shop because the engine shop said that if I wanted it blasted it might take off metal and require more machine work (if I am understanding them correctly). Since the engine sat so long in storage there are a couple spots that have some rough rust on the exterior of the block...

Love your build, can't wait to see how it turns out.

Onyxyth

iTrader: (2)

I painted it as soon as I got it back from the machine shop. They had hot tanked it so it was completely free of grease. There was some surface rust still, so I gave it a quick wire wheeling after masking off the top/bottom/front/back. I did like 5 coats of Duplicolor Engine Enamel, which apparently has some ceramic in it according to the label. It dried really "hard", almost feels like glass - if that makes any sense. It should be pretty tough.

This was during:

Onyxyth

iTrader: (2)

Onyxyth

iTrader: (2)

Put the oil pan on and broke one of the long bolts.
Luckily it came right out AND I was able to grab one off my spare motor without too much trouble:



Wrinkle Black!
After looking at this, I think regular Gloss Black would have been fine too.


Apply Heat:


Came out pretty good:



Timed:



Covered:



Pulley'd:



Transmission put on, reroute put on.





At this point I'm waiting on Motor Mounts (949 Hybrid) and brake lines (backordered with Trackspeed water/oil kit). Then I should be able to start this thing up on the stock ECU and break it in.

ericsbestshot

iTrader: (2)

Love your build. Similar motor build to mine. Just envious of the TSE turbo set up.

BTW, how much did you have to trim the lower timing belt cover for the supermiata harmonic balancer?

Onyxyth

iTrader: (2)

Quite a bit, especially with the trigger wheel. I trimmed probably 3/4" around the whole thing. I would take a bit off, set the cover in place then eyeball with the pulley at the end of the crank. I was using tin snips/aviation sheers to trim it, which worked really well. Cleaned up the edges with a file afterwards.