patsmx5

iTrader: (16)

My cat looks very similar to Ian's.

Going to build it with no glasspack/no cat for now, order a cat and swap it out at the track as mentioned. Will have to order some V-bands too so I can make it easily swapable.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

A WRC cat like these. WRC Spec Catalytic Converters

18psi

iTrader: (76)

told you, and I'll say it again: bolt in/out or you'll kill the 2nd turbo no matter which you run

patsmx5

iTrader: (16)

V, I'm thinking about doing a rear mounted cat (post turbo)as mentioned here already. Two concerns though:

1. Will that pass emissions with it way back there? I think it might.
2. How in the hell will I ever package a muffler AND a cat back there...

Doing other stuff now, exhaust post-turbo will happen later after I get a plan together for it.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

the concern there would be that the flow would cool down so much it pretty much would never actually get up to temp and operational. dunno

patsmx5

iTrader: (16)

I dunno either. But the alternatives suck. If it works, great. If not, then it goes further up and I have to swap cats all the time, which is lame. Would need a jack and stands to do that too, more suckage.

I did get the exhaust system from small to big turbo built. Just gotta pull it and weld it out. Working on getting rear external gate welded first, then pull it and weld everything out at once.

Missed my 2/12 deadline. Oh well, it's not done but it's like 80% done.

patsmx5

iTrader: (16)

Regarding the temp, I can insulate the crap out of the pipe to help. I'm thinking about doing that anyway. If the cat wouldn't light off, that would get me to do it as that would probably fix it.

codrus

Nothing you can't fix by diverting some of the compressor output air and adding a fuel injector.

--Ian

vteckiller2000

iTrader: (4)

You really should insulate the crap out of it anyway to make your rear turbo work.

If you have a sniffer, the cat in the rear section will likely not get hot enough to light off in time. You may just have to swap IN the cat when you get tested and run without it on the daily.

Joe Perez

iTrader: (8)

Proprietary e-Heat™ technology.

patsmx5

iTrader: (16)

Yeah I know it will help. I'm not doing it right now just because I want it on the road, and shake down the system/make sure it's designed ok. I think I'm going to build a sheet metal wall around the pipe to put an air gap all the way around it. Tired of using expensive wrap that doesn't work as well as a sheet metal shield, cost more, and makes a mess of dust.

I'm not gonna daily it without a cat. So it's going somewhere. Worst case is up front and swap it out for track, best case is in the back and stays all the time and passes emissions with it back there no problem.

vteckiller2000

iTrader: (4)

I don't think that a wall is going to do anything to keep the heat energy in. If you don't do wrap, consider ceramic coating.




Also a side note. I REALLY want to see your VE and spark maps when you get this running and tuned.

patsmx5

iTrader: (16)

I tested both (shield, wrap, shield and wrap) and the shield worked better on my last exhaust system.

I can post whatever once it's tuned, no problem.

vteckiller2000

iTrader: (4)

Better for what? This is a strange case, because you actually NEED to keep as much heat as possible inside the pipe, not just dissipate it in the air medium.

patsmx5

iTrader: (16)

Better at keeping the heat in the pipe/ not escaping the pipe. I'm an engineer, I know how basic heat transfer works. I tested this stuff by opening the throttle some, retarding the timing a lot, and getting the exhaust a light red glow for an hour one day while testing different shield designs. Ha, now that I think about it, maybe that's the day I killed my exhaust valve stem seals.

The wrap does work, but not as well as a metal shield with a 1/2" air gap all the way around the pipe.

codrus

What you really need is a metal shield with a 1/2" vacuum gap all the way around. Probably hard to make that vibration-proof though.

--Ian

hi_im_sean

iTrader: (3)

Just weld a bunch of these together, they're stainless even.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

1. Run the car leaner to heat the cat up, unless that makes you fail nox.
2. Just propane torch the outside of the cat before pulling into the emissions testing bay.
3. Run E85 and play with tune until it passes the sniffer.

patsmx5

iTrader: (16)

For emissions the stock ecu will be running the car.

Working on the rear wastegate right now, going slow but it's going. Having to cope pipes to make everything fit right, and dumping the gate back into the exhaust right after the turbo for packaging so I can immediately put it into a cat or muffler.

I guess I'm getting close? Once this part is made, and I pull/weld out/reinstall the exhaust again, that's it on exhaust for now. Then it's charge pipes/BOV/oil lines/pump/pump wiring/radiator/coolant/oil/little crap and hit they key. Maybe it will run this weekend. Hate to say today and be wrong.... But possibly.

patsmx5

iTrader: (16)

Pics kinda tell the story, but exhaust is done all the way till rear turbo, and out 3" out the big turbo. Will order a cat and muffler soon to finish that up. More on exhaust later.

Hornet, you'll see I put a fire sleeve over the oil feed line for now. If it ever leaks, will change it of course. But that should help with any heat problems at least.

And, my crap welder died. So I bought a Lincoln MIG 140HD. It has the stuff for using gas (so did my old one too) but I'm still using flux core for now. But this one actually works, so the welds are way better than that old POS. The old one the wire speed was whatever it felt like being. Most stuff was already welded before it died, but the last welds look way better.

Also tested the oil pump. I posted pics while back, but I tore it apart and cleaned it up. It looked like crap before, gears rubbed everything. It's now bout 10x quieter vs before.

I tested it to see if it will lift oil. The pump was super clean/dry since I cleaned it with brake parts cleaner. It lifted oil 2' up with a dead battery and dry pump. As soon as it got oil and primed, this thing honks oil out. Will probably end up building a PWM system to slow the pump down, it's honking like 5 GPM probably, it's way more than ever needed for this application.

But since it works great at lifting too, it will be up a few inches relative to the turbo drain for packaging. I just wanted to test and make sure that wouldn't' be a problem, and it's not.

Next is mount the oil pump, wire it, oil lines for rear turbo, oil feed for front turbo, fab hotside IC pipe, patch coldside IC pipe, wastegate hose for rear turbo, wastegate hoses for front turbo, oil filter, oil, coolant, maybe put the radiator in before I add coolant, few other minor things and hit the key. So may fire tomorrow it looks like! Will have to make a video I think.