I know, not a Miata
This project got started a few months ago because I wanted a cheap platform for experimentation. This, combined with the teal color of my '94 coupe, lead to me naming this "Project Gemini".
I am exactly like NASA, except I have no budget and no idea what Im doing.
Here is the car when I first bought it for $700
Complete with ricer clear corner lights, factory mud flaps (notorious "awesome" to drag on the ground when youre slammed), steel wheels with the lip painted red, JDM fog lights, a "woodgrain" steering wheel, a hood painted flat black, no interior, and of course an engine that wont run.
After getting it home and doing some exploration I found some more interesting **** under the surface.
It was lowered on high quality racing suspension courtesy of China.
The bushings were all looking pretty worn, and there was some dodgey **** going on. The front brake lines, while connected, were not attached to their proper mounting points, and were perfectly ready to get pinched, torn, etc.
Most of the nuts were not tight and one of the ball joints didnt even have a castle nut, and the other castle nuts on the ball joints and steering tie-rod ends didnt have cotter pins.
Oh, I found some free chips in the driver side door pocket!
I later read them (after straightening the pins) and found they all contained some shitty looking turbo maps.
I immediately pulled the D15B7 engine after finding it had zero compression on several cylinders.
I pulled the head and found it had chipped exhaust valves.
I dont know how, but I dont care. The bottom end looked otherwise fine, and the pistons showed no signs of contact. Luckily my buddy had a good condition head from a D16Z6 that he gave me. I also bought a Skunk2 intake manifold from another buddy and tossed that on there.
This is a common hybrid that has been around something like 15 years. Putting a VTEC D16 head on a non-vtec D156 bottom end. The result is ~10.5:1 CR and a better cam/head. The only real downfall of this setup is that the rods in the D15 are very skinny and dont take to boost well. Most say 180-200hp is about all you can throw at the rods before the bend/break.
The engines mounts were in good condition, but are notorious for tearing even with moderate power. There are lots of fancy aftermarket mounts available, but they cost upwards of $200. The cheaper solution is to fill the stock mounts with polyurethane.
I think they came out pretty nice.
Engine back in the car. Now equipped with a VTEC head, ARP head studs, an eBay 6 puck sprung clutch, and a new flywheel.
Started mocking up the turbo setup. Im using a used cast T25 manifold I bought from a guy who does hill climb racing, and a BEGi T25/T28 chinacharger. The turbo had been sitting for years, ever since I parted out my old NB.
Push-lock -8 AN drain line
On to the fuel system. In true MTnet fashion I went with Bosch EV14 injectors (550cc).
and I fixed that fuel feed, which had the swaggin JDM fuel filter delete done by the previous owner. No ******* idea what that asshat was thinking. So I had to improvise.
Shortly after this, I got it running (shitty video, dont bother watching).
I rigged up some super ghetto charge pipes so that I could limp it 30 miles to my friends shop so he could TIG up a downpipe and charge pipes.
This is what the car was looking like at this point