Well - it's certainly been a trip. Things have calmed down a little at my job, and I haven't been selling cars on the side with such frequency, so I finally had a few moments to sit down for once.
Since the last update I've done a slew of modifications to project Me-Otter. Here it goes:
New robbins one piece top (excellent quality)
Iggee seat covers (excellent quality)
List of mods are as follows:
IHI RHF5 turbo, internally wastegated
Buschur racing MBC
Port matched intake manifold
Port matched MSM manifold with relief cuts (custom heat shield)
Ported MSM O2 housing
2.5" mandrel bent downpipe
Granatelli 2.5" exhaust cutout
Jackson racing 2.5" mandrel bent catback
Synchronics synapse BOV
SCAT H-beam rods
ARP head studs
BP-T turbo cams
AEM tru-time cam gears
Begi coolant spacer
Megan racing competition motor mounts
Flyin' Miata Stage 2 clutch and pressure plate
Custom passenger side re-route (Kia water neck, 1.25" aluminum tube, Kia universal hose, flipped water outlet)
A/C eliminated - factory Cruise Control and PS retained
Tig-welded stepped up intercooler piping
Mishimoto full aluminum radiator and slim fans
Mishimoto stealth intercooler
Rebuilt 460cc RX-7 saturated injectors
Toyota COPS with factory corolla harness
BLOX racing EGT and boost
Innovate Motorsports LC-1 and digital AFR gauge
Blitz DTC turbo timer
DIYPNP Nippon Denso 72pin Megasquirt (MS2extra)
GM IAT (MAF Elimination)
RS232 -> BT adapter for Bluetooth datalogging via ShadowLogger
Wired DIYPNP for features: Closed loop idle, closed loop boost control, WBO2 datalogging, table switch, launch control, e-cutout activation (tps>60)
Koni yellow shocks with Flyin' Miata springs
Brembo blanks with Hawk HPS pads
PT7 Output -> Boost Control Input
Boost Control output -> DB15 Pin 1
PA0 Output -> Relay 1 Input
Relay 1 Output -> 1L (grounded when active)
PT6 Output -> Relay 2 Input
Relay 2 Output -> DB15 Pin 2 (grounded when active)
DB15 Pin 8 - 12v out
DB15 Pin 7 - GND out (Due to corrosion, Heater ground moved to seperate grouding wire but using same ground lug as ECU)
DB15 Pin 6 - SG out
DB15 Pin 5 - O2 input
1Q (A/C switch) Input -> Input 2 In
Input 2 Out -> PE1 IN
1V (clutch switch) Input -> Input 1 In
Input 1 Out -> FLEX (PE0) IN
BT Module: DB9 Pin 9 +5v
Pin 1 - Boost Control out
Pin 2 - Exhaust (relay gnd when closed)
Pin 5 - WB O2 in
Pin 6 - WB SigGnd
Pin 7 - GND out (Due to corrosion, Heater ground moved to seperate grouding wire but using same ground lug as ECU)
Pin 8 - WB ConPwr (12v)
1V (clutch switch) - Launch Control
1Q (A/C switch) - Table switch
Testing out my RS232-Bluetooth adapter
Shadow Dash on my CM7 Nook Color
First longblock ready to go!
2.5" downpipe I welded up. (heat wrap is excellent for hiding crap welds)
Front main seal got punctured somehow and was leaking oil like a sieve. The timing belt did a wonderful job of conveying the oil to the valve cover region which drove me crazy for a few days trying to source it.
At about 250 miles I started to notice the engine began dropping in RPMs severely during clutch application. I thought this was a matter of tuning, but nothing I did was able to eliminate the symptoms. Things got worse, and eventually I stalled whenever applying the clutch and was unable to start the engine with the clutch still pushed in. I bought a new battery and obviously still didn't have luck. A quick google search pointed in the direction of a failed thrust bearing, and after measuring 1/4" of play in the crankshaft in-out play, I knew I was doomed.
Tragic discover and my worst fears confirmed. Thrust bearing failed due to constant pressure on pressure plate from mis-adjusted clutch push-rod. Some lessons have to be learned the hard way :(
The damage to the engine was significant. In retrospect I should have just scrapped the block and started fresh, but that's not an easy thing to do after putting so much money into rebuilding everything fresh. Wound up salvaging the rods, head, and accessories.
The machine shop I've been using for 10 years+ "misplaced" my short block after dropping it off for an inspection and re-hone. Takes the sons of bitches until mid-October to find a replacement. Screwed my whole summer.
Rebuilt bottom end with Clevite 77 bearings, Merkel racing polished crank, new slave cylinder, all new t-bolt intercooler clamps, new oil pump
Starting over with a replacement block...
Re-using stock pistons since the NPR's got chewed to all hell
Flyin' Miata Stg I clutch
I'm pictured on the left. Brother lending a hand for once since I coaxed with beer
Tragedy strikes again. That'll teach me to cheap out and buy a Harbor Freight ching-chong banana torque wrench.
December 10th, 2012
Freak accident and blew the head-gasket between #1 cylinder and water jacket. Bizarre instance of the DIYPNP WB analog values being thrown off by corroded wiring. I guess feeding the wideband heater circuit through the MS was a horrible idea since the 14ga wiring was corroded green and brittle to the touch (insulation appeared fine, though). Oh well, obviously I have no luck. Replaced head gasket. Head and block deck verified straight by Merkel.
Moved Wideband heater ground (Blue wire on LC-1) to grounding lug on intake manifold
Double-checking that I didn't block that goddamn oil feed
Corrected timing by making sure I and E marks are directly north with 19 teeth in between each respective cam gear marking. DO NOT USE bevel on cam gear back plate...not accurate.
Very big improvement in throttle and turbo response from timing change.
Tapped catch can for top vent to atmosphere and rerouted inlet hoses to both side of valve cover.
As she sits today...for the most part
The Me-Otter back to DD status
Programmed LC1 to have Analog 1 (Gauge) full range 0-5v, 7.35 -22.39, and Analog 2 (MS) 0-5v, 10-20AFR
Installed warning LED and modified stock oil pressure gauge for VDO sending unit.
Got table-switching working with A/C switch (as long as fan is on)
Found out that Launch Control won't work on 1V input (Flex/pe0) due to hardware issue with cruise control. ECU input is pulled to ground all the time due to cruise control module sharing brown/white wire from clutch switch. Still trying to figure this out.
Tapped intercooler piping from intercooler to throttle body and moved new GM IAT to this position to prevent heatsoak.
Boost creep evident in 2nd and 3rd gear pulls. Boost climbs to 14psi instead of the normal 8psi. Ran vacuum line from old IAT position right before throttle body to internal wastegate since it's not supposed to see boost anyway.
Re-did vacuum sources according to FM turbo install (only use two ports off manifold) - assisted in boost creep reduction and MAP signal looks slightly cleaner.
Closed-loop idle working much better with Integral value of ~40 and Derivative value of ~50 to soften reaction. I know it's not recommended to even use a D value, but honestly I'm too lazy to keep playing with the idle and don't mind slight oscillation.