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Old 05-01-2014, 12:23 PM   #321
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you only have to do that when the r/p comes apart, not when simply swapping the carrier
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Old 05-01-2014, 12:46 PM   #322
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Did you have to set the backlash and all that? I'm going to be playing with this tonight... I picked up the diff carrier already.
NOPE, i did extensive research before swapping the carrier. Everyone said it's all pnp in the new housing, so i did it that way and they were right! Awesome LSD that works very well, no weird noises, leaks, or anything negative to speak of so far..

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you only have to do that when the r/p comes apart, not when simply swapping the carrier
bingo!
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Old 05-01-2014, 12:58 PM   #323
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Yeah, i bought my torsen with a broken housing at the same place too. Paid $150 for the diff/axles/driveshaft locally, bought a $80 housing, threw it together in my garage with some rtv, and now i can do mad skidz, yo.
That's cool. I have no idea how to pull the thing and swap it into a new housing. I got my halfshafts and driveshaft for free from a friend of mine and then paid $700 shipped for the diff itself.
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Old 05-01-2014, 01:04 PM   #324
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That's cool. I have no idea how to pull the thing and swap it into a new housing. I got my halfshafts and driveshaft for free from a friend of mine and then paid $700 shipped for the diff itself.
It really could not be any easier. IIRC it's 8x 12mm bolts and the guts fall out of the housing. With the guts out, clean all the RTV off the mating surface, clean the new housing, apply a thin coat of RTV, and re-install.

I ended up finger tightening the bolts on the new housing and let the RTV set overnight, then came back the next day and torqued em down. I just checked when i was working on my car over the weekend and it still looks sparkly clean several thousand mile later
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Old 05-01-2014, 01:24 PM   #325
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Oh **** Ed, I'm an idiot.

This is going to be a very easy swap. I forgot everything was bolted into the iron part. My bad on the misleading bit.

You do still need an axle though.
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Old 05-01-2014, 01:24 PM   #326
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do yourself a favor and replace the seals. only like $5 and takes 2 seconds
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Old 05-01-2014, 01:56 PM   #327
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Thanks for the great info guys. I will check for those seals with the dealer, my new carrier has them but they look a little buggered up.
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Old 05-01-2014, 02:01 PM   #328
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do yourself a favor and replace the seals. only like $5 and takes 2 seconds
+1, i didnt replace mine because they looked brand new (not leaking either), but if they are questionable at all replace them so you don't have to do it later.
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Old 05-01-2014, 03:58 PM   #329
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+1, i didnt replace mine because they looked brand new (not leaking either), but if they are questionable at all replace them so you don't have to do it later.
man this guys on this forum are so helpful..... in the sentra forums i would ask something really technical and i would get flamed
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Old 05-01-2014, 05:20 PM   #330
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If you're Ed, look away.

Managed to remove one of the security lugs.



And I managed to save the wheel finish! Happy dance.

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Old 05-01-2014, 05:25 PM   #331
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next time, just hammer on a 12 point socket.

or use a left thread bolt remover since there is a lot of space there.
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Old 05-01-2014, 06:21 PM   #332
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If you're Ed, look away.

Managed to remove one of the security lugs.



And I managed to save the wheel finish! Happy dance.

dude you are a genius
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Old 05-02-2014, 12:47 AM   #333
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That sounds like fun, I would love to do this for a living. Perhaps I ca work towards a transition that way. Not now though.

Anyone know if control arms are significantly different for ABS/Non-abs cars?
They are different only in that the abs cars have a small bracket on the control arm. Otherwise identical. Nothing that FIA-rated zipties can't also do. Or your friendly CSTG welder.
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Old 05-02-2014, 01:25 AM   #334
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I got a set of these


they work surprisingly well
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Old 05-03-2014, 01:25 AM   #335
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Well...



Car drives PERFECTLY. Picked up the axle, a proper '99 NB intake, and some plastic interior pieces that were missing, as well as the front subframe and control arms for the MSM. Josh and I put the axles back in, put in the plastics, and went for a drive. She drives perfectly! Runs great, brakes feel good, clutch is strong, shifts very nicely, torsen works as it should (hehe).

Oh, and I totally didn't know that Josh is a youngun til yesterday.



Monday the rear control arms go on the MSM. I'm going to try to borrow some wheels and get the front aligned well enough to drive to CTSG for a front subframe swap.
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Old 05-03-2014, 01:45 AM   #336
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Congrats ED ...... Looks really good, why don't you buy a 94 accord lip I bet it would look really good on this blue miata ...
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Old 05-03-2014, 02:00 AM   #337
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What a trooper. Sits for a year, starts with a jump, and after a $20 diff casing, $70 axle, and $10 in axle seals, it just runs awesome. We beat the **** out of it on some back roads, and aside from some soulless rear tires it felt awesome. Both my first NB and first 6spd. Loved both.

And then after a 6 mile round trip to a local wine bar with the wife, who's car sickness won't allow me to rev past 3000rpm at 10% throttle,and there's now a check engine light. Tempted divorce on the way home to about 5500, and still cannot for the life of me feel or see anything wrong with it. I'll get it read tomorrow.
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Old 05-03-2014, 02:05 AM   #338
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lol if you love it that much you should check out a 01+ I bet you'll be looking for an NB in no time
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Old 05-03-2014, 02:15 AM   #339
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Oh they're by far my "dream" car, but the wife has said numerous times my '08 lancer needs to sell first, and both cold/rainy winter days and hot summer days don't sound fun in my NA. I'll live with this thing for a weekend for now.
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Old 05-03-2014, 09:09 AM   #340
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Hot Summer days. LOL. You have NO IDEA!!

Wife that gets carsick. Sounds familiar. But, I'm 29 years into it, so it can be done.

Ed, just put some good tires on that NB and build yourself back up to a turbo Miata (JK).
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