krissetsfire

iTrader: (1)

Thanks G. I have never tuned a car before or been involved this much with the ECU. I like it but it's different. On my EVO I just took it to the dyno and they made it purr. I didn't have any of these symptoms.

I have read so many things about ms1 being **** compared to ms2 or ms3 when it comes to a nice calm quiet idle. I've also read Joe say ms1 can be just fine. I have a handful of things to upgrade and among the first on the list is injectors and ms3. I haven't decided what to upgrade first ms3 or injectors.

Fire: You brought up something I meant to note in my build thread for other people doing this kind of work. I should have taken pictures and I wanted to document this build thoroughly because although mt.net is a wealth of information, the information is EVERYWHERE. Half the information you need is in some thread 16 pages long on page 7. The other half the threads you find in your search say learn to search!

So I regret buying the 1.8 swap kit from FM. The only thing I used off of it was the throttle cable bracket. I reused all my 1.6 sensors and wiring harness except for the tps and iac. My 99 motor came witht he engine mounts for a 1.8 so now I have 2 brand new 1.8 mounts sitting here (pm me if interested). I ended up using the 99 throttle body and I went to a junkyard and got a tps connector and iac connector off a kia sephia. on this page https://www.miataturbo.net/general-m...t-70034/page5/ I list the vehicles I found to have said connectors. I didn't bother looking up the wiring diagram either I just matched up the orientation of the plug and winged it and soldered those connections together. It all worked fine. the 99 tps calibrated just fine in MS.

The 90 tps sensor is useless anyway but if you plug the 99 tps into the oem computer it will fry the sensor. The 90 sensor is 12v while the 99 is 5 i think. So you don't want the oem computer shoving 12v down to the 99 5v.

Also Fire, my exhaust didn't mate up. The 1.8 is a bit longer and that causes the dp to sit in a different place from my last one. It's probably ~2" difference. Because the begi separated gas dp sucks and I had to put a spacer in that moved my dp back half an inch or so. I had another 1.5 inches to make up for. I don't like my exhaust at all but the guy that built it used a sleeve to connect the cat back to the rest. I just loosened the sleeve and was able to make up the rest of the distance and orientation. I'll weld up a real exhaust later but right now I just want to get all the tuning and stuff ironed out.

If I can think of anything else I'll fill you in.

Fireindc

iTrader: (13)

Thanks for the details Kris! So from what I've read is the 99 IAC valve operates on a different frequency ( I WISH I would have saved the thread I read that in, because now I'm looking for those details again). Did you adjust the IAC valve settings in your MS when you went to the 99 sensor? Perhaps this is part of your problem.

My plan for the swap is to use all the 90 sensors and harness, running the 99 TB with TPS and IAC valve, and even wiring up the VICS eventually.

Thanks again.

krissetsfire

iTrader: (1)

I don't think it would be involved with my issues. the biggest problem really is the lean blips. I'll log it and show. I am leaning at it being bad gas. I had maybe 1/8th of a tank. I should have dumped it :(. I added 5 gallons though so I need to burn through it.

It could be I guess. I know iac is mostly with warmup but I've read some things about it. I'm not in boost yet though. I won't connect my wastegate back up until I've gotten a few hundred miles on the motor.

edit: good thought though. I'll pull it and see if it changes anything. I read on m.net something joe said about moving idle settings over from the 99 msq. I live in arizona and shouldn't have any issues right now without it plugged in.

Fireindc

iTrader: (13)

MX-5 Miata Forum - Hooking up a 99 TB to a 92 Harness with MSPnP

https://www.miataturbo.net/megasquir...s-15819/page2/

I'm sure theres more out there. Somewhere between 20-30hz it looks like ?

Edit: just read your last reply. Honestly I'm not 100% sure how much the IAC valve would effect your issues - BUT it is called an idle valve, so i'd assume it could have something to do with your idle issues.

krissetsfire

iTrader: (1)

thanks. I just decided to trade cars for the day so my daily is on the shelf. i unplugged the iac and drove back to work on my lunch break. It doesn't feel any different without it.

My clutch is making a funny crying sound when i use it. the only time it's completely quiet is when i'm leaning on it just a touch. Other than that it actually drives pretty nice. Next on my todo list I think other than the tuning and break in is depowering my power steering rack. it always leaks and one of my control arms rubs on something i think so seems like the next logical thing to do.

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

I just dealt with this recently... most likely culprit is the throw out bearing. How old is the clutch? :(

krissetsfire

iTrader: (1)

the clutch is brand new fm2 clutch. it is a weird sound. It's like whistling and i don't have to actually engage the clutch to hear it. When I say whistling. I mean I can whistle songs by slightly tapping my clutch pedal less than an inch. It genuinely is a whistle. Still think it's the throw out bearing? Sounds like this except mine does it only when im pushing in the clutch. Guess it probbaly is the throw out bearing. lame as hell. I just put all this **** back on the car.

krissetsfire

iTrader: (1)

I'm still investigating but spoke with FM and was pointed out to me that it likely could be that the nipple on the slave cylinder is vibrating against the shaft arm creating that noise. Told me to lube it up and go over my clutch adjustment process. I'll tonight or tomorrow but since i only get the squeal right as the slave cylinder is engaging the shaft arm that makes me feel relieved because i feel that makes a lot of sense and i'm probably in good shape!

This also makes sense since my slave cylinder is new.

krissetsfire

iTrader: (1)

A nice glob of grease fixed the squealing.

I bought an earls sandwich plate and it failed on me. The spring and ball bearing came apart. I had a backup glowshift just in case but was rather disappointed in the earls plate.

krissetsfire

iTrader: (1)

Bad news. Yesterday while going for a nice cruise I believe my head gasket to have failed. A very white cloudy smoke was coming out of my tail pipe as I shifted (mostly out of first). My radiator was definitely missing coolant.

It was a felpro mls and my head and block were freshly machined. I freshly calibrated my wrench before I torqued so I'm kind of concerned what did it. I will do a leak down test today or tomorrow to determine what caused it.

I'm not sure what to do now as far as replacement. My head was decked and the block was as well. I didn't overheat anything as I shut it down and had my uncle trailer me as soon as I figured tit out. I only had the internal cluster thermo gauge but it was still in normal operating temp when I shut it down.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

ouch. comp/leakdown pronto.

I've seen them fail for no reason whatsoever. Most hold up perfect though. Good luck

krissetsfire

iTrader: (1)

I always see people asking about leak down tests and I built my own tester so ill document my testing and tester. My misfortune at least can maybe help someone else later. Booooo

krissetsfire

iTrader: (1)

Here is the leak down tester I made. I went to harbor freight and bought a regulator, female air fitting, male air fitting, and a standard pressure gauge. I also picked up from ace a #60 drill bit and a 3/8 male/male pipe. The none brass male to male pipe I filled with jb weld and then drilled a hole in it. The only part of the leak down tester that is missing is the hose from my compression tester that screws into the spark plug hole. I almost forgot i did buy a 3 ft 3/8 air hose lead from hf as well and put a male end on one side. My compression tester had a 3/8 screw on spark plug compression tip adapter. I just unscrewed it off my compression tester and screwed it on the other half of the 3 ft air hose lead.

The air compressor I was using only has an 80psi regulator on it so thats the highest I could set mine t8o. The idea is to hook the regulator side up to the compressor and then the other side up to the air hose lead with the spark plug air adapter on it.

You want to hook up the air hose lead after you've screwed in the air hose line.

At that time the pressure gauge will will dip.-This happens to be my 4th cylinder. It dropped to 40 psi. That means I have 50% leak down. I like to normally use a compressor with more than 100 psi. This way I can set my regulator to 100 PSI. It makes it very easy to get precise readings. 100 PSI regulator with the pressure gauge reading 95 means you have a 5% leak. I guess the idea is anything under 30% is acceptable. The less the leak down the better the compression. The beauty of making one of these yourself is including a compression tester to steal some parts for you can have a compression tester and leak down tester that works very well for less than $50. If you want to be super cheap you can probably get it together for around $20. Now if you buy the cheapo harbor freight leak down tester the pressure isn't adjustable. It's much easier to diagnose with this type of leak down tester than it is the cheapo one because you can up the pressure. It's much easier to hear 40 psi leaking (40% of 100 psi) out of your exhaust or intake then it is 12psi (40% of 30psi).


I had 190 psi on cylinders 1,2,3 for compression test and about 112 or so on #4.
Leak down was 10% roughly on all cylinders except for the 4th. 4th was 50% as mentioned. I ordered a new head gasket and will probably swap it out on the weekend. I will be doing a deck check prior to re install.

krissetsfire

iTrader: (1)

Cleaned up a little after removing the head gasket.




Is this from detonation?

krissetsfire

iTrader: (1)

I'm going to update with a few pictures now of some random stuff. Maybe make this thread a little more entertaining for myself and others. I have neglected the build thread and although I have a semi cookie cutter build I will eventually be deviating from the norm stuff after i get it all sorted.

The car runs great but has a bunch of stupid quirks.

First pictures are of dents from neighbors party. Some schmuck backed into my car and cause some really annoying to fix damage.

krissetsfire

iTrader: (1)

I got THE dent and some others fixed. I'll take some before and after of how it looks currently a little later.

I am going to create a list. the 10 most annoying things about my car. This will be the 10 things I'm working on fixing and yada yada. I think If i work on a list this will improve my tracking and prevent me from going all over the place. Probably wrong but it's the plan.

I've been working myself to death and had some housing issues. Not having a garage has greatly detoured my miata lovin'. It's been about 6-8 months since I've really put any effort into it and now that I finally tackled and finished my ms3x batch upgrade I'm moving forward full steam.

1) ren I trern cronners my streering real brend.

2) My "power" steering is more like intermittent steering. It leaks and sometimes it grabs; sometimes it doesn't. It's pretty exciting steering tight corners you have to really pay attention.

3) My exhaust tea bags EVERYTHING. The cat also vibrates against the body sometimes and I don't love my magnaflow muffler. It's oval but it's not the awesome truck one (even though I've had one sitting on my parts shelf for over a year easily).

4) I have NO A/C!!! We've only had 44 days over 100 this year. no big deal. Who needs a/c?

5) My waste gate is only 6 psi and I have a built motor with a gt2560r. Should be running allofit.

6) My BOV doesn't work very well in low boost scenarios. I LOVE the way my blitz bov sounds. But I don't like getting that flutter just by letting off the gas during cruise.

7) My head unit gets to decide when and what I listen to. It doesn't respond to me pushing any buttons and sometimes it doesn't even turn on (it is super old in its defense).

8) I have a factory spoiler. I also upgraded to hydraulic lifter for trunk. It promptly slams in my face after I open it.

9) My car is multi colored thanks to a neighbors house party awhile ago. Neighbor backed into car pushing it into a wall. New fender, front bumper, hood. Pruple bumper, white hood, black fender, red car.

10) My intercooler bracket broke. It now hangs and looks JDM TIGHT YO!

10) My intercooler bracket broke. In combination with my awesome body panel coloring. My car looks like some mexicans hoopty.

krissetsfire

iTrader: (1)

SO I read a bunch of good things about the NGR BOV working really well. Well they are reasonably priced so I bought one. Now I haven't installed the product but they are marketed as a BRAND NEW BOV. They are supposed to be greddy rip offs but with internals that don't wear out easily (the greddy type-s was known to have a diaphragm that broke easily). You be the judge.









None of that looks freshly machines and there is dirt in every nook and crany. There are wear marks and it is VERY obvious it is not NEW. I wrote them a long concerned e-mail saying they were being very misleading. The repsonse from them was basically. NO WAY WE GET THESE RIGHT FROM THE FACTORY! They then proceeded to apologize and gave me some JDM TITE YO blue silicone vacuum hose, a flange, an extra diaphragm , etc...

I think the effort is there and I appreciate the service. They sent me a new one that is yellow and not purple. This one was cleaned MUCH better but it still isn't fresh out the factory. Anyway this is my opinion and review obviously. If you buy one from them I wouldn't expect to get a BRAND NEW bov but it will be cleaned and then they will add their rugged diaphragm so you can make jdm tite PSHHH sounds if you like that sort of thing. I'll probably make it recirc since I like the quiet. The blitz was the perfect sound for me... oh well. I have other things more important to work on. Moving on!

krissetsfire

iTrader: (1)

NEXTTTT I was on ebay and found a sparco steering wheel l575 be the model i thought.



I bid 150 bones thinking it was legit. Allt he pictures and everything indicated it was. I got it int he mail and it looked really nice. I was super stoked! I then flipped it over and found there is no "Made in Italy" stamp on it. Sparco stamps that and then typically the month and year it was made below where it was made. SOOOOO mad. I just paid 152.50 for a piece of **** china wheel that bends! I already have one of these! Anyway I sent it back and got a refund.

krissetsfire

iTrader: (1)

I've had all these parts forever and they have just been sitting here waiting for me to use them. I'm showing them off right now I suppose because this weekend I plan on putting pretty much all of them on and fixing these annoyances I've had for so long.

I bought a Grant wheel because I couldn't find something I liked for less than $200 Maybe one day I'll get a nardi corn wheel but not today. This Grant will have to do. I bought a 5 hole to 6 hole 1/2" aluminum spacer to make it fit on my momo hub.



I have a straight through pipe from silicone intake a 180 bend of stainless 304 and a 90 bend of 304 stainless as well as a 4' straight section. Igot a bunch of vbands so I can swap out my straight pipe and cat if necessary.

I bought the vbands from ACE. I hadn't read any reviews on their vbands but thought i'd give them a whirl. they look pretty ok. The silicone intake pipes are slightly bent and i'll have to massage them to get the vband to slip over straight pipe.

I took some detailed picks of their vbands so everyone could see in detail what they offer. I haven't welded in a while but this weekend I plan on taking my 110 mig and some .035 316SLI wire with some tri-mix to this exhaust. I'm sure it won't be tig rainbow glory but hopefully I can shoot out a nice product. There are surprisingly few exhaust shops in town that weld tig.

I probably should have just bought one from abe or tim ages ago but I always enjoy the I built that feeling. And so far I've pretty much put together and built everything in my car so why stop now. If it goes well I will probbaly weld up my IC piping in stainless and then maybe a manifold and downpipe for an efr.

krissetsfire

iTrader: (1)

did some exhaust work today. mig stainless on a 110 machine. it turned out ok. short arc 110 mig welding on thin sheet. 16 gauge or thinner is pretty challenging. its challenging because the stainless really wants to distort.

anyway the welds are very functional but not super pretty. I primarily did this because everyone i know is always acting like stainless mig is kryptonite. the worst part is you can only weld an inch or two at a time without getting much distortion. I feel if i had a 220mig i could use spray arc. although you use more amps you spray; so the overall heat being absorbed is much less. i only did a couple pieces and called it a day. ill get more pictures when i'm done.