RedTurbo's not red and not Turbo'd (yet) build
01-23-2013, 11:36 AM
#21
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: May 2011
Location: London,OH
Posts: 1,139
Total Cats: 13
lol. it had an older sony model in it, i wasnt all that happy with it though. i picked this unit because it had a rear usb, bluetooth, no cd player, and a front usb and aux input. if its not like below zero tonight i might fire up the heater in the garage and install it.
Reply
0
0
01-23-2013, 11:40 AM
#23
Boost Czar
iTrader: (62)
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Chantilly, VA
Posts: 79,493
Total Cats: 4,080
prewire it inside; installation shouldnt take more than 10 minutes outside.
2 screws on the tombstone, pop the two vents, two more screws behind them. 4 screws holding in old radio.
unplug, bring inside to remove the mounting brackets from the sony and put on JVC.
reassemble.
2 screws on the tombstone, pop the two vents, two more screws behind them. 4 screws holding in old radio.
unplug, bring inside to remove the mounting brackets from the sony and put on JVC.
reassemble.
Last edited by Braineack; 01-23-2013 at 12:32 PM.
Reply
0
0
01-23-2013, 11:45 AM
#24
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: May 2011
Location: London,OH
Posts: 1,139
Total Cats: 13
prewire it inside; installation shouldnt take more than 10 minutes outside.
2 screws on the tombstone, pop the two vents, two more screws behind them. 4 screws holding in old radio.
unplug, bring inside to remove the mounting brackets from the sony and put on JVC.
reassemble.
2 screws on the tombstone, pop the two vents, two more screws behind them. 4 screws holding in old radio.
unplug, bring inside to remove the mounting brackets from the sony and put on JVC.
reassemble.
Last edited by Braineack; 01-23-2013 at 12:33 PM.
Reply
0
0
01-23-2013, 01:41 PM
#25
Personally, I loved my GT2554R. It's a great street turbo and at the limit you won't be in the danger zone of venting block. You should be able to find a used one (or a 2560 if you want the headroom) for around 500-600-ish. I think I sold my 2554 for 400.
If it was me, I would re-tap your manifold for T3 via the PatsMX5 method and run the cheap T3 50trim that Brain and Underdog used.
Reply
0
0
01-23-2013, 01:43 PM
#26
Boost Czar
iTrader: (62)
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Chantilly, VA
Posts: 79,493
Total Cats: 4,080
our turbo is smaller than a 2560 compressor. it's a 2554ish sized compressor* with a t3 sized turbine.
*it's physically bigger than a 2554 compressor since it's still a 60mm wheel, but it's only a 25-30 lb/min wheel, compared to the 30-35 lb/min wheel of a 2560 or a 60 trim T3.
Screw retapping, just find a cheap sr20 t25 and enjoy 250-275rwtq and 210-240rwhp.
*it's physically bigger than a 2554 compressor since it's still a 60mm wheel, but it's only a 25-30 lb/min wheel, compared to the 30-35 lb/min wheel of a 2560 or a 60 trim T3.
Screw retapping, just find a cheap sr20 t25 and enjoy 250-275rwtq and 210-240rwhp.
Reply
0
0
01-23-2013, 02:20 PM
#28
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: May 2011
Location: London,OH
Posts: 1,139
Total Cats: 13
I assume budget build means a stock block. Basically you want the T2 footprint equivalent of Braineack's and Underdog's turbo or something along the lines of a 2560. The china 2870 spools very slowly and the power output is... disappointing.
Personally, I loved my GT2554R. It's a great street turbo and at the limit you won't be in the danger zone of venting block. You should be able to find a used one (or a 2560 if you want the headroom) for around 500-600-ish. I think I sold my 2554 for 400.
If it was me, I would re-tap your manifold for T3 via the PatsMX5 method and run the cheap T3 50trim that Brain and Underdog used.
Personally, I loved my GT2554R. It's a great street turbo and at the limit you won't be in the danger zone of venting block. You should be able to find a used one (or a 2560 if you want the headroom) for around 500-600-ish. I think I sold my 2554 for 400.
If it was me, I would re-tap your manifold for T3 via the PatsMX5 method and run the cheap T3 50trim that Brain and Underdog used.
our turbo is smaller than a 2560 compressor. it's a 2554ish sized compressor* with a t3 sized turbine.
*it's physically bigger than a 2554 compressor since it's still a 60mm wheel, but it's only a 25-30 lb/min wheel, compared to the 30-35 lb/min wheel of a 2560 or a 60 trim T3.
Screw retapping, just find a cheap sr20 t25 and enjoy 250-275rwtq and 210-240rwhp.
*it's physically bigger than a 2554 compressor since it's still a 60mm wheel, but it's only a 25-30 lb/min wheel, compared to the 30-35 lb/min wheel of a 2560 or a 60 trim T3.
Screw retapping, just find a cheap sr20 t25 and enjoy 250-275rwtq and 210-240rwhp.
And is this the turbo your talking about? http://www.ebay.com/itm/240SX-S13-S1...sories&vxp=mtr
Reply
0
0
01-23-2013, 02:25 PM
#29
Boost Czar
iTrader: (62)
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Chantilly, VA
Posts: 79,493
Total Cats: 4,080
e85 with meth injection for 300rwhp?
thats upper limits of a 2560. so that's the smallest I'd get with good supporting parts.
2860 can squeeze off a little more due to larger turbine, but very very similar compressor wheel.
next would be 2871 sized.
**** it, go EFR or go broke.
thats upper limits of a 2560. so that's the smallest I'd get with good supporting parts.
2860 can squeeze off a little more due to larger turbine, but very very similar compressor wheel.
next would be 2871 sized.
**** it, go EFR or go broke.
Reply
0
0
01-23-2013, 02:42 PM
#30
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: May 2011
Location: London,OH
Posts: 1,139
Total Cats: 13
e85 with meth injection for 300rwhp?
thats upper limits of a 2560. so that's the smallest I'd get with good supporting parts.
2860 can squeeze off a little more due to larger turbine, but very very similar compressor wheel.
next would be 2871 sized.
**** it, go EFR or go broke.
thats upper limits of a 2560. so that's the smallest I'd get with good supporting parts.
2860 can squeeze off a little more due to larger turbine, but very very similar compressor wheel.
next would be 2871 sized.
**** it, go EFR or go broke.
Reply
0
0
01-24-2013, 04:20 PM
#33
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: May 2011
Location: London,OH
Posts: 1,139
Total Cats: 13
so i like the looks of the dual low profile headlights, but was less than impressed by the lighting quality. i was also very surprised to see nobody has done a dual low profile HID projector setup. i received my HID projector kits with halo's in the mail today, im planing to sell the brainstorm setup that is currently installed so i cant use parts off it. but here are the lights themselves, im hoping to have something together by mid February and if i can maybe reproduce some and sell them.
Reply
0
0
01-24-2013, 04:42 PM
#36
Supporting Vendor
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Lake Forest, CA
Posts: 7,951
Total Cats: 1,004
WTF then? It seems pretty widely regarded that stock rods give way around 250wtq. Most dyno plots I've seen on these cars put out more HP than Torque (even at the lower power levels). How would you have 240 whp and 270 wtq without popping stuff? And what is done to make that much more torque than HP? Teeny turbo?
Reply
0
0
01-24-2013, 04:50 PM
#37
It's a T25. It runs out of gas up top, hence 210whp for your 260+wtq.
Unnecessary. WI+Meth injection does not cool the intake charge. You are just adding more failure points unless you want to run ALLOFIT. 8.5:1 pistons cost the same as 9.5:1 or higher pistons, and WI/MI is not free. Why spend more money when plenty of people track their 8.5:1 turbo motors in Texas?
I would get a cheap T25 now, and when you are ready to build your motor you can sell it and get something bigger. The only turbo that will do both well would be an expensive GTX or EFR turbo, and a used T25 + a used 2871 will still be cheaper than one EFR.
Originally Posted by redturbomiata
i would be using the water meth more for keeping the air cool on those hot summer days it will also be running an intercooler.
I would get a cheap T25 now, and when you are ready to build your motor you can sell it and get something bigger. The only turbo that will do both well would be an expensive GTX or EFR turbo, and a used T25 + a used 2871 will still be cheaper than one EFR.
Reply
0
0
01-24-2013, 04:56 PM
#38
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: May 2011
Location: London,OH
Posts: 1,139
Total Cats: 13
It's a T25. It runs out of gas up top, hence 210whp for your 260+wtq.
Unnecessary. WI+Meth injection does not cool the intake charge. You are just adding more failure points unless you want to run ALLOFIT. 8.5:1 pistons cost the same as 9.5:1 or higher pistons, and WI/MI is not free. Why spend more money when plenty of people track their 8.5:1 turbo motors in Texas?
I would get a cheap T25 now, and when you are ready to build your motor you can sell it and get something bigger. The only turbo that will do both well would be an expensive GTX or EFR turbo, and a used T25 + a used 2871 will still be cheaper than one EFR.
Unnecessary. WI+Meth injection does not cool the intake charge. You are just adding more failure points unless you want to run ALLOFIT. 8.5:1 pistons cost the same as 9.5:1 or higher pistons, and WI/MI is not free. Why spend more money when plenty of people track their 8.5:1 turbo motors in Texas?
I would get a cheap T25 now, and when you are ready to build your motor you can sell it and get something bigger. The only turbo that will do both well would be an expensive GTX or EFR turbo, and a used T25 + a used 2871 will still be cheaper than one EFR.
Reply
0
0
01-24-2013, 05:01 PM
#39
Boost Czar
iTrader: (62)
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Chantilly, VA
Posts: 79,493
Total Cats: 4,080
WTF then? It seems pretty widely regarded that stock rods give way around 250wtq. Most dyno plots I've seen on these cars put out more HP than Torque (even at the lower power levels). How would you have 240 whp and 270 wtq without popping stuff? And what is done to make that much more torque than HP? Teeny turbo?
ignore my red plot.
Reply
0
0
