redturbomiata

iTrader: (5)

no, maybe a finger loose hazard. mine have wear marks so they got ditched for now.

redturbomiata

iTrader: (5)

Got these mounts in the mail, and how i left it for the night. should finish up the coil on plug wiring tomorrow.
Final Checklist

• Finish Cops
• Finish AN Fuel Lines
• Finish Intercooler pipework
• Reinstall Front Bumper
• Have Erat weld Sensor bung for IAT
• Check Fluid Levels
• tighten all hose connections
• New map for IAT equipped car
• Prime oil system and fire

redturbomiata

iTrader: (5)

Hey brain according to your cop write up you need a 10000uf capacitor, RadioShack didn't have one that large. Will 2 4700uf's work?

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

yes, but not using one at all is easier.

redturbomiata

iTrader: (5)

Ah, don't need them anymore or something? I like that option better.

redturbomiata

iTrader: (5)

Another question on the wiring diagram the tach signal for the 95.5+ cars doesn't show what is done with the tach signal. What do you do with it and where does the signal come from?

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

the ECU.

redturbomiata

iTrader: (5)

Alright in stuck right now, trying to get it started, its getting stuck popping and backfiring and won't run. Messed with the timing table but can't seem to make it any better. Getting plenty of spark and I believe enough fuel. I don't think it's possible to get the timing belt 180degrees off. Any ideas?

redturbomiata

iTrader: (5)

Nevermind I must have rolled the motor over. Timing is 180degrees out. F@&$

Erat

iTrader: (5)

Hey, send me a text i lost your number because i got a new phone.
I didn't end up getting a tank today Baker closed at noon, and Wyandotte isn't even open on weekends. I'll get one as soon as i can though.

redturbomiata

iTrader: (5)

Got it started today, didn't run particularly well. I think my problem is this leak. Any ideas how to fix this? Studs are wrenched down.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

machine it flat

FowlerMotorsports

iTrader: (8)

The ceramic coat may be uneven. Also do a light film of high temp rtv

supercooper

may work... but ive had bad experiences with this on my manifold. it would always burn up, dry up, crack, then start leaking again... i used high temp, just maybe not high-ENOUGH temp... it was that copper colored stuff.

personally, i would try to do 18's suggestion first if at all possible... i mean, either way, you have to remove the turbo to do it, may as well try to have it machined while its off

FowlerMotorsports

iTrader: (8)

I'm stating machine it like 18psi said, also to add a thin film of rtv. I never had any problems

redturbomiata

iTrader: (5)

block sanded it flat, didnt take much effort. The ceramic coating was uneven and used a very small amount of the high temp rtv. now on to why it wont start. log attached.

redturbomiata

iTrader: (5)

Dug in a bit I'm getting fuel and plenty of spark from all 4 cops in full sequential mode. I will verify the timing is correct again tonight but Im pretty sure it's right. So what does that leave that I'm probably overlooking. Also there is a single wire on a riveted flange near the coolant spacer, is that for the gauge? It fell off how do I fix it?

stefanst

iTrader: (1)

If you're not even getting an occasional cough from trying to ignite, my guess would be that your not igniting the right cylinders at the right time. 2, 3 and 1, 4 may be swapped.

redturbomiata

iTrader: (5)

It does cough. I'm 90% sure it's in the correct firing order

stefanst

iTrader: (1)

Then retard the timing some more (5-10* BTDC). You can try and run on fixed timing.
And run more fuel (+10 to 20%). Play with throttle. Win.