hi_im_sean

iTrader: (3)

it really doesnt look as bad as i thought, the leverage looks low. its just that a little piece of me dies when i have to stack fitting to get the result i want when i know just about any adapter can be made out of one piece/unit.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

Sometimes it makes sense though. Like a pipe thread should only be a 1 use connection, its perfect for cutting into expensive parts. While a flare type connection is great for stuff that has to be undone a couple times its really not something you want to integrate into a part unless its an inverted flare. Straight, washer/oring seals fall in a middle ground, where they're easy to put on parts and are ok with connection/disconnection but have their own draw backs.

hi_im_sean

iTrader: (3)

well if there is a good reason to do so, like using helicoils in aluminum in cases where the fastener is R/Red often to save the threads, then sure. but i mean having to stack fittings or whatever because they dont make the one you need, or when people are to cheap/stupid/un-resourceful.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Cheap here. I save 30$ a side by going m12-an then the 90. A 90* m12-an cost 30 more a side.

DNMakinson

iTrader: (3)

If you purchase premade hoses, you can get the 90 crimped onto the end of the hose.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

I'm using rubber hose, not braided.

hi_im_sean

iTrader: (3)

you can crimp either. just need the proper fittings.

i have access to a hydraulic crimper, but id have to but the right size dies, and i really didnt wnat to get into custom hoses. with barbs, if i spring a leak at the track, all i need is a screwdriver and length of hose.

on a related note, check this **** out
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Milton-Ind...-Tool/19252906

hi_im_sean

iTrader: (3)

can anyone inform me as to why one would choose a puck style clutch over a full disc when theres a choice of either that would satisfy torque requirements? after a little google searching, i am still unclear as to what the pros and cons are to each type.

hi_im_sean

iTrader: (3)

the female die had a sharp edge, so it left a ridge on the pipe. it has been fixed, but i dont have a good pic of the bead i rolled after the die was rounded off.

heres the first one i rolled

18psi

iTrader: (76)

hahaha LOVE how you're literally making everything from scratch

hi_im_sean

iTrader: (3)

thanks vlad

hornetball

iTrader: (4)

That beader is uber-cool!

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Way cooler than the one I'm going to make: DIY $5 charge pipe bead roller - D-series.org

hi_im_sean

iTrader: (3)

I saw those when I was searching for ideas. Probably way less work for the same result, and you'll never see the ugliness.

Edit: when I'm done using it, you can borrow it. it might be a while though, we are going to finish the season (may) before we turbo.

sixshooter

iTrader: (12)

Puck versus non-puck at same rating means that puck clutch has weaker pressure plate because the material is grippier. I prefer the stronger pressure plate and smoother engagement of the non-puck, myself.

hi_im_sean

iTrader: (3)

ive done a little more googling and the consensus seems to be: pucks are on/off switches and "cool better". i cant see any reason to not go with a full disk.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Totally didn't see the ninja edit. I'll hit you up when I finally get around to bead rolling my piping, I should probably do it before a track day. If you're not done I will just make the ghetto one. I don't know why no one has mass-produced one of those and sold it for $10 I bet they would sell like wildfire.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Nevermind, turns out my work has one in the machine shop. I will just pull all my piping at some point and do it there.

hi_im_sean

iTrader: (3)

we have a really nice one at work too. its just not a place i can or want sneak intercooler piping into.


yet another idea i came across, although it hurts me to see a crimper used i such a way

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Ahh, ours is in the "engineers shop" where the elec. Eng's get to play with the mechanical eng. toys