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Old 11-04-2013, 01:15 PM   #21
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these thing keep popping out of the lathe

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Old 11-04-2013, 07:47 PM   #22
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someone is getting a ****
That's gonna look good in someone's car!
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Old 11-04-2013, 08:04 PM   #23
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*Pics of personal lathe* Jelly.

Keep up the good work...and for those of us who have to work on our cars in parking lots, keep making the most of your workshop.
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Old 11-04-2013, 09:37 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by mx5autoxer View Post
*Pics of personal lathe* Jelly.

Keep up the good work...and for those of us who have to work on our cars in parking lots, keep making the most of your workshop.
thanks for the compliments

my machine shop/garage is a fuking disaster right now. i have way to many projects.

lathe with mill in the backround


and my baby mill with a 1.5hp motor conversion



they are great little machines, especially for the money, but nothing like have full size equipment.

i hope you enjoy playing with your **** ray!

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Old 11-05-2013, 02:17 AM   #25
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How heavy and expensive are said *****?
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Old 11-05-2013, 11:08 AM   #26
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How heavy and expensive are said *****?
They are this heavy

And they are $45 expenisive shipped in flat rate box.

They are mild steel so they rust unless painted. I can do aluminum too, or even brass. No SS, to much of a pain to work with.
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Old 11-08-2013, 10:00 PM   #27
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made this thing today. i can heel-toe now!





and going to the track sunday, vids will follow
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sean's cheap thrills, 90 1.6 with subaru td04-20131108_185755_zps63d745c8.jpg   sean's cheap thrills, 90 1.6 with subaru td04-20131108_190810_zpsc96942dc.jpg  
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Old 11-10-2013, 01:11 PM   #28
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more like toe-toe?
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Old 11-10-2013, 09:40 PM   #29
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more like toe-toe?
thats funny, i was thinking about correcting that while i was driving it today. more like ball-ball.

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Old 11-12-2013, 10:01 PM   #30
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track day was fugin awwwsome. the vmaxx suspension worked pretty dam good, but was not as stiff on the track as i expected or would have liked. i also feel like they could use a bit more rebound dampening, although i still have 2 clicks of adjustment left. i initially had the rear sway set to the middle position and the front set to the softer position, the car was over steering. i also got the common inside rear wheel lift on corner exit. i wanted to set the rear bar to full soft but the sway links wernt playing along, so i set the front to full stiff instead, which made a huge difference although it still over steers. ill screw with the rear links before the next track day. maybe even go back to the stock rear bar?

i picked up about 4 seconds on a 1:15 track just from the vmaxx setup from stock. the corners feel so nice now, much more confidence and i can hit the rumble strips without shitting myself. the bigest improvement though was braking. the car dove so bad before it would dance all over the place, i could never approach lockup. with the vmaxx i could brake as hard as i want and the cars stays in a straight line. i had to learn braking control for the first time.


i got a type 1 torsen from a local auto crosser out of his 94 yesterday! i got it with the axles, hubs, rotors and uprights, i just need the driveshaft. which leads me to a question. will the auto shafts work? does this "chart" from 949 regarding their driveshaft apply to stock driveshafts?

Fits:
90-05 Miata (including MSM) with 7" differential from 1.8. 5 and 6 spd manual
94-97 Miata w/ Auto trans

im finding 94-97 auto driveshafts a little cheaper for whatever reason



heres my 3rd session, 2nd and 4th video got corrupted. i was being horribly inconsistent all day. i was trying to learn to many new things at once. 8:40 the rear tires passed the front because i was trying to keep up with a good driver in an frs on nittos. sorry about the aggrivating women running her mouth about split times. i always forget to turn that off.

edit: i like how the screenshot for the video is right after i spun out, figures lol. and m3 drivers cant drive for ****.

and i have to show off rays ****, because it looks so good in his car
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Old 11-14-2013, 07:45 AM   #31
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Old 11-14-2013, 09:36 AM   #32
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Looking good on the track, thanks for sharing. How much boost were you running? Any trouble with your hotside parts?
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Old 11-14-2013, 11:42 AM   #33
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Looking good on the track, thanks for sharing.
thanks!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Fireindc View Post
How much boost were you running? Any trouble with your hotside parts?
not sure if joke or to take as compliment, none of it....

im still n/a, turbo build is a work in progress. i only have the DP vband flange thingy done, turbo rebuilt and im working on the log. had money for ms and a few other things but just spent it on the torsen that popped up instead. stock rear end is making a lot of noise and the pinion nut keeps loosening itself, signs of imminent demise.
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Old 11-24-2013, 12:34 PM   #34
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i ended up getting a lowish miles DS from a 96, and im into the whole torsen swap for $725. they usually get $1000 for the full swap in my area, so i feel i got a deal

it came with the hubs and upright attached, so i had to mount them on my car just to break the hub nuts loose. i dont have the brackets for rear 1.8 brakes, and the bushings were toast or else i would have just used them. which still would have been a shame because i have 300 miles on new bearings and hubs.



i coulnt use the parking brake because i couldnt install the 1.6 caliper and bracket on the 1.8 rotor and the 1.8 rotor is held on by the nut so i couldnt just swap the hats. pita and it bent my pickle fork :(
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Old 11-24-2013, 08:31 PM   #35
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i coulnt use the parking brake because i couldnt install the 1.6 caliper and bracket on the 1.8 rotor and the 1.8 rotor is held on by the nut so i couldnt just swap the hats. pita and it bent my pickle fork
Excuse me? That rotor is only still on there because its rust welded on. The axle nut doesnt hold the rotor on. And at least for me the P brake wouldn't hold for undoing the nut. I had to have that wheel on the ground and stick the socket through the center hole on the wheel and have someone stand on the brakes while I stood on the cheater bar that was on the breaker bar and jump.
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Old 11-24-2013, 08:56 PM   #36
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Excuse me? That rotor is only still on there because its rust welded on. The axle nut doesnt hold the rotor on. And at least for me the P brake wouldn't hold for undoing the nut. I had to have that wheel on the ground and stick the socket through the center hole on the wheel and have someone stand on the brakes while I stood on the cheater bar that was on the breaker bar and jump.
your right im a dumbass. after loading it in my friends jeep and unloading it with all the banging around the rotors got and then i yanked on em, by hand, i was sure they were solidly attached. i looked for the little countersunk screw in the rotor. wasnt there. i looked for a line between rotor and hub, wasnt there (well it was but filled in with rust), so my dumbass assumed theyre were one. now having rethought it, after the many cars ive worked on, i have never seen such a thing except on gm gbodies. lol im tired and might have been slightly inebriated. i just went out into the garage with a hammer and they separated.

the pbrake worked to get my originals apart (jumping on a 3 foot breaker bar) and this set torqued to spec. i must have better cold bite lmao

anyway, it cleaned up nicely and got it all installed this afternoon. its funny how much larger it is that the na6 diff. the oil came out pretty clean and the magnet didnt have anything of concern on it.






the car is soo queit now, it really puts it in perspective how much racket either the DS or diff or both were making. and the torsen is pretty cool too. after the suspension, chassis bracing, wheel bearing, and now drive line, the car is just about silent. when i first got it, it sounded like it was falling apart. going from 4.3 to 4.1 helped freeway cruising. track day in a week to test, yay! theres a few spots on the various tracks at firebird where 2nd isnt quit long enough and trying to grab third is a waste of time. im hoping the ratio change will fill those spots in a little.
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sean's cheap thrills, 90 1.6 with subaru td04-20131124_121134_zps63efe7da.jpg   sean's cheap thrills, 90 1.6 with subaru td04-20131124_121145_zps5a46d4f3.jpg  

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Old 12-10-2013, 10:38 PM   #37
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the torsen worked well at the last track day, noticeable improvement on corner exit out of slower corners. it does appear to have a slight leak though. i got a tomtom mk2 bluetooth gps to use with trackmaster and it sucks ***, dont buy one. it was so inaccurate, it had trouble triggering off split 1, so i got little video and no usable telemetry. i guess ill buy the 818xt everyone raves about for 4xs the money.

anyway heres a lap. this track was kicking my *** and i got black flagged for repeatedly spinning out on the same turn. i have never run that configuration and i didnt really like it. got some instruction and improved although i could never set a decent time.

we finally got my reroute spacer done. a friend of mine was boredat work one day one day, so i sent him this
DIY Coolant Reroute Spacer
and just had to weld it since he doesnt have a tig. i still suck at tig so a friend of a friend played with it. all in all about 8 people involved in the making of this.

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sean's cheap thrills, 90 1.6 with subaru td04-20131210_160637_zps30tbznbw.jpg   sean's cheap thrills, 90 1.6 with subaru td04-20131210_160637_zps30tbznbw.jpg  
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Old 01-20-2014, 02:12 PM   #38
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nothing new on the build, but had a track run on saturday. the car performed flawlessly all day. these kumhos really get grippier as they wear, or it could just be they "took" to the new alignment and suspension, all i know is the car has never felt better. once i got in the groove i just kept shedding seconds. best lap was 1:14.995.


if tax time treats me the way i think it should, an MS3 and a decent seat are very soon.
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Old 03-13-2014, 08:18 PM   #39
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so i ordered an ms3 and im in the process of building it. ive stuffed many hundreds of boards, so piece of cake.

ordered an ultrashield spec miata seat, still waiting.

i also got some cleaned and flowed rx8 injectors. they were yellow bodies, but i got them from a shop that rebuilds (probably pieces them together) so they are grey now. but the flow sheet says 440cc @ 43.5psi. they were ordered under part number 195500-4450.

so questions: do i need to run these at or above 60psi for proper atomization, or can i run them at stock miata fuel pressue? which is as i understand around 45psi?

do i need to run an IAC? mine is eratic, does what it wants and i dont feel like fixing it. can the megasquirt be tuned to handle cold starts without one? im not running A/C, and i live in arizona where a cold start at worst means 50 degrees.

mike got some instruction on the east track(above post) and transferred some knowledge to me and i took 2 seconds off my previous best. i got down into the low 1:13s but ran out of memory and didnt get any of those recorded.

video

im going to try and have a log mani done in the next few weeks
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Old 03-14-2014, 01:39 AM   #40
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I run without any sort of IAC. It's ok, but definitely needs to be held at 2000rpms for a few seconds when stone cold. I might suggest keeping the coolant IAC only for a little help.

And depending on the ambient temperature, your idle will vary. On 80+ days, I generally have to turn it down from 1200. But then again, we usually have colder days, and it idles happily at 800 most of the time.
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