i cant get a good tach signal. while cranking it just jumps from 0-280ish rpm back and forth.
im having trouble doing logs. i cant seem to get a composite log, and it took a while to get a tooth log to show up. its acting eratic, data will flash on the left pane for a moment, maybe with or without a graph and i get "Empty read, No Data Received from Controller". once i set the "time" drop down menu to 4000ms in the tooth logger and hit the start and stop button under 4 seconds before and after cranking it, it will show and hold a graph. what does that drop down menu control? is it just coincidence? i then figured out how to save a log.
i played with the vr pots a little with no effect.
i tryed falling edge and it does the same thing with the exception that it only jumps up to 130ish rpm and back to 0
can you open a tooth log with tunerstudio? i only seem to be able to open it with megalog viewer. im curios why its displayed as a bule bar graph in tunerstudio when the log is created on my laptop, but when i open the log file on my desktop megalog displys it in a differnet way.
i really dont know what im doing at this point, please help. ive attached what i believe to be a tooth log and a comp log. even though i wasnt getting a display, it still saved something to the log file. it could also be a sync log lol. i cant tell what they are by the default file name. having remember reading issues with people changing the file name, i was hesitant, is this still an issue?
im getting really frustated and its 5 billion fukin degrees outside
well i foud this gem MS1 to MS3, no spark
he has the exact same sync error waveform as i, so i did as scott suggested and i have stable tach in!
no sync errors and a stable 280 cranking rpm
but... i cant log composite logs again, "no data from controller" bullshit again. it still saves a log file that causes megalog to freeze when you try to open it. and the fans are coming on at power up randomly and i have to cycle power a few times to get them to turn off. i have double checked my on fan on temp to be above 200 and i even turned fan control off entirely with no effect.
for reference purposes
Originally Posted by Braineack
yeah you gotta put the crank back on the opto circuit.
tachselect to xg1
TSEL to optoout
top of c30 to 5v
and d1 and d2 are open.
the saga of megasquirt continues. once i plugged the FP jumper in the FP would never stop running despite settings in tunerstudio. also no spark output, and the continuing fan bullshit. back to the bench, found a solder bridge on Q2 from emitter to collector. i blame pad spacing.
nothing obvious with the fan and ign out circuits except that they all use the same 2n2222 from questionable origins with questionable pinouts. the should be C-B-E, but im sick of guessing and threw some 3904s in the outputs. i pulled the fans circuit 2n2222 out and left the circuit alone for now. 3904s are only good for 200mA, and im sure the relay draws more; i dont have any other higher current TO92 transistors laying around.
spark and fuel pump now work as they should. injectors are working.
no start, just sounds like some backfiring and horribly out of time or something. i need to find a way to crank the engine myself while i play with a timing gun.
Last edited by hi_im_sean; 07-07-2014 at 01:23 PM.
is this in response to my last comment or the previous? if i set it to rising, i get lots of sync loss. the only way i get stable tach in is with the opto circuit and tuner studio set to falling edge.
are you saying i should try rising to get it to start? edit- it cant hurt, i will go try.
Originally Posted by Braineack
fwiw, if you're jumping the fuel pump in the AFM connector going to 2P, you dont need to pull the st_sign fuse.
isnt the green wire at 2p the same one that goes under the dash? i couldnt see on the schematic why the st sig fuse would cause a problem but i didnt want to find out the hard way.
Originally Posted by Braineack
good noob is good.
im trying. the crazy amount of confusing, or not fully explained/qualified info across the web is staggering. if i just had a clear write up to start, or just bought the expansion, it wouldnt be an issue. there seems to be a hole for info specifically regarding the ms3 non x.
Originally Posted by Braineack
not sure why you are fooling with the transistors and stuff.
becasue my spark outs wernt working and my fan circuit has a ghost in it. shift lamp untested.
whats common between those 4 circuits? the 2n2222s i used from one of my old parts boxes from back when i used to proto guitar effect pedals. i took them from a guy 10 years ago who had them for probably 20 years before that. there seems to be 2 possible output configurations for the 2n2222: EBC, or CBE. i couldnt find the datasheet for my specific flavor of 2n2222 so i went with the more common.
after these problems arose, i figured if i had to tear into the proto area again i would just go with a known transistor as im getting sick of this and i have a few hundred 3904s laying around. and it worked.
thanks for the info scott
2nd edit- with fuel and spark disabled and just cranking, i get perfect rpm sync and 0 sync errors. when i go start it and it does its backfire thing, its almost like its throwing the crank backwards and then it looses sync. on one attempt, i forgot the plug the map hose into the ms and when it backfired there hose made a pretty good hiss, so i know the intake is getting pressurized.
Last edited by hi_im_sean; 07-07-2014 at 01:46 PM.
what lead me astray is that, i would guess, i wasnt exiting or disabling test mode correctly. i would cylce power, enabled test mode, start a test, stop it, then key off while i fiddle with plug wire because i dont want to get zapped. i would get an error message, ignore it, key back on, then test mode would do things like enable spark A regardless of what was selected in the drop down. i was starting to go crazy, i thought maybe i got a bad daughter card. once i got lazy enough to stop walking around the car to key off while removed the inline spark tester, everything started working in test mode as it should. then i realized spark A was 2/3, B was 1/4.
so i think i learned through trial and error, and pease tell me if im wrong. when youre done with a test, hit stop, then disable test mode, then burn, then close and go on with life?
everything seems to be working except the tach on the instrument cluster. any ideas on that? maybe because i have spark B driving the 1/4 channel on the igniter. i havnt looked at the schematic yet to see hwere the tach gets its info.
also, in my version of tunerstudio i dont have the base timing setting available, just offset. in other write ups ive seen for ms2/2x, you set base timing to 10 degrees in software, then either adjust the offset in software or the cas physically to get 10 degrees at the timing tab. am i going for 0 degrees or 10 degrees at the timing tab?
Last edited by hi_im_sean; 07-10-2014 at 01:55 PM.
/\ dumb question. i looked at the menus and figured out how to set base timing.
and from what ive read, i need a pull up for the tach sig at the diag. conn to get the tach working again.
i breaded boarded the transistors like i should have to begin with and discovered i had them in backwards.
i soldered them back in everything works
got the car idling decently and enabled veal. went for a little drive and it just got better and better. i need to throw that tach resistor in and adjust the wideband calibration about 0.3afr even though i have overbuilt star grounds.
i have accel enrichments disabled, should i turn those on after veal does its thing or now?
any comments on target afr table? i copied the curve from someone here and just rescaled it for my kpa scale and made a few tweaks.
made a 1/2" flange
manifold is dry fitted, just need to cut the tacks, bevel everything and weld it all together. should i relief cut the flange between the runners with a log? if yes, i would assume you would machine it flat after you make the cuts?
i machined a piece of 3/4" plate flat and drilled and tapped it for the flange bolt pattern. i bolted the flange to it for the runner welding for obvious reasons.
it still warped a little, i havnt measure how much, i would guess around 0.015". im going to mount it on the mill and make it flat again, i just hate loosing flange thickness even if its juts a little.
im not very proud of my welds but they should be strong. wire feed was to high, and i didnt really think of it until i was about done.
so relief cuts or no relief cuts?
theres one stud hole i need to spot face for the nut. but welding stayed far enough away from the rest that no cleanup was needed on the others.
when i fubared one of my toyota cops, that's what was happening. basically the single coil was holding the signal to ground so I lost my tach.
It should pulse from 12v to ground when working properly. the 1K resistor you add is providing the pull-up to 12v that you remove when you pull out the stock ECU (b/w 2I) that normally connects to the y/b wire on the ignitor, which goes to the diagnostics box and dash tach.
with jusy key on, you should see 12v on that signal, then see it pulse to ground as teh coils fire. the signal is converted, based on the rate of 4 pulses, to move your tachometer.