hi_im_sean

iTrader: (3)

schuyler, just ms3, no x. the fidle circuit transistor that was in there should have been good for the current, but i just wasnt sure that circuit with D8 was configured properly ofr PWM.


totally agree with this now that i have done it. i just wasnt sure if it was worth it and i had every component i needed already laying around from other projects. except the ebc fet.


yup, i followed the ms1 write up, then realized im a dumbass. i was overwhelmed by all the different write ups and criss-crossing info. im pretty sure i have things 100% right now.
good to know, thanks guys


i made an as built in mspaint lol
MS3board_zpsb769ef73.png?t=1403548326

irish, shes a bitch, i had to give her to my mom


edit: i tagged my own thread

hi_im_sean

iTrader: (3)

seans deals of the day

the wells tps201 is on closeout right now at rockauto. 6 left.

AIRTEX / WELLS Part # 5S5141 More Info {#12339048, E53F9B989AA, E53F9B989BA, E53Z9B989B, E63F9B989DA, E6DZ9B989A, E6PZ9B989A, E8FF9B989AA, TPS201}
Category: Throttle Position Sensor (TPS)
$16.89

and i dont know if summit made a mistake or what but they have one specific dry element aem filter priced at about 1/2 of what it should be.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ai...36dk/overview/

i made a change to refelct the proper table switch circuit


and of course a color accurate wiring diagram.


temporary intake until turbo





meh


i had to customize the prop rod


more better?


i got the ms hooked up to the car and everything is talking. i just need to do injector and spark output test and then try to start.

startup msq attached if anyone wants to look at it, as this is my first megasquirt experience.

hi_im_sean

iTrader: (3)

Help!

i cant get a good tach signal. while cranking it just jumps from 0-280ish rpm back and forth.

im having trouble doing logs. i cant seem to get a composite log, and it took a while to get a tooth log to show up. its acting eratic, data will flash on the left pane for a moment, maybe with or without a graph and i get "Empty read, No Data Received from Controller". once i set the "time" drop down menu to 4000ms in the tooth logger and hit the start and stop button under 4 seconds before and after cranking it, it will show and hold a graph. what does that drop down menu control? is it just coincidence? i then figured out how to save a log.

i played with the vr pots a little with no effect.
i tryed falling edge and it does the same thing with the exception that it only jumps up to 130ish rpm and back to 0

can you open a tooth log with tunerstudio? i only seem to be able to open it with megalog viewer. im curios why its displayed as a bule bar graph in tunerstudio when the log is created on my laptop, but when i open the log file on my desktop megalog displys it in a differnet way.

i really dont know what im doing at this point, please help. ive attached what i believe to be a tooth log and a comp log. even though i wasnt getting a display, it still saved something to the log file. it could also be a sync log lol. i cant tell what they are by the default file name. having remember reading issues with people changing the file name, i was hesitant, is this still an issue?

im getting really frustated and its 5 billion fukin degrees outside

hi_im_sean

iTrader: (3)

screen shot of tooth logger.

hi_im_sean

iTrader: (3)

i changed the time back to 250ms and comp log works. and quite possibly it was working before and im not smart enough to figure out the viewer.

i dont see why im losing sync...




sync loss reason 38: "4g63"

hi_im_sean

iTrader: (3)

well i foud this gem
https://www.miataturbo.net/megasquir...e2/#post863869
he has the exact same sync error waveform as i, so i did as scott suggested and i have stable tach in!

no sync errors and a stable 280 cranking rpm

but... i cant log composite logs again, "no data from controller" bullshit again. it still saves a log file that causes megalog to freeze when you try to open it. and the fans are coming on at power up randomly and i have to cycle power a few times to get them to turn off. i have double checked my on fan on temp to be above 200 and i even turned fan control off entirely with no effect.


for reference purposes
and set input capture to falling edge

hi_im_sean

iTrader: (3)

the saga of megasquirt continues. once i plugged the FP jumper in the FP would never stop running despite settings in tunerstudio. also no spark output, and the continuing fan bullshit. back to the bench, found a solder bridge on Q2 from emitter to collector. i blame pad spacing.

nothing obvious with the fan and ign out circuits except that they all use the same 2n2222 from questionable origins with questionable pinouts. the should be C-B-E, but im sick of guessing and threw some 3904s in the outputs. i pulled the fans circuit 2n2222 out and left the circuit alone for now. 3904s are only good for 200mA, and im sure the relay draws more; i dont have any other higher current TO92 transistors laying around.

spark and fuel pump now work as they should. injectors are working.



no start, just sounds like some backfiring and horribly out of time or something. i need to find a way to crank the engine myself while i play with a timing gun.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

flip rising edge to falling, or vise versa.

fwiw, if you're jumping the fuel pump in the AFM connector going to 2P, you dont need to pull the st_sign fuse.


good noob is good.


not sure why you are fooling with the transistors and stuff.

hi_im_sean

iTrader: (3)

is this in response to my last comment or the previous? if i set it to rising, i get lots of sync loss. the only way i get stable tach in is with the opto circuit and tuner studio set to falling edge.

are you saying i should try rising to get it to start? edit- it cant hurt, i will go try.

isnt the green wire at 2p the same one that goes under the dash? i couldnt see on the schematic why the st sig fuse would cause a problem but i didnt want to find out the hard way.


im trying. the crazy amount of confusing, or not fully explained/qualified info across the web is staggering. if i just had a clear write up to start, or just bought the expansion, it wouldnt be an issue. there seems to be a hole for info specifically regarding the ms3 non x.

becasue my spark outs wernt working and my fan circuit has a ghost in it. shift lamp untested.

whats common between those 4 circuits? the 2n2222s i used from one of my old parts boxes from back when i used to proto guitar effect pedals. i took them from a guy 10 years ago who had them for probably 20 years before that. there seems to be 2 possible output configurations for the 2n2222: EBC, or CBE. i couldnt find the datasheet for my specific flavor of 2n2222 so i went with the more common.

after these problems arose, i figured if i had to tear into the proto area again i would just go with a known transistor as im getting sick of this and i have a few hundred 3904s laying around. and it worked.

thanks for the info scott

2nd edit- with fuel and spark disabled and just cranking, i get perfect rpm sync and 0 sync errors. when i go start it and it does its backfire thing, its almost like its throwing the crank backwards and then it looses sync. on one attempt, i forgot the plug the map hose into the ms and when it backfired there hose made a pretty good hiss, so i know the intake is getting pressurized.

hi_im_sean

iTrader: (3)

So it seems like spark is 180 out. Anyone have any ideas?

Even though in spark test I get spark on cylinder one when channel A is selected, it's it possible the outputs are swapped? Could cylinder 2 be getting spark when it's at bdc on intake stroke?

I have wasted spark selected, should I try sequential?

I'm certain firing order is right, but could that cause this?
Should be 1342 right?

If someone could peak at my msq id be greatful. I'm about to kill it with fire.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

Are the ignition coils plugged in correctly?

hi_im_sean

iTrader: (3)

I didn't mess with the coil wiring. Still all factory, so yes they should be.

hi_im_sean

iTrader: (3)

spark outs were reversed, car is running.

what lead me astray is that, i would guess, i wasnt exiting or disabling test mode correctly. i would cylce power, enabled test mode, start a test, stop it, then key off while i fiddle with plug wire because i dont want to get zapped. i would get an error message, ignore it, key back on, then test mode would do things like enable spark A regardless of what was selected in the drop down. i was starting to go crazy, i thought maybe i got a bad daughter card. once i got lazy enough to stop walking around the car to key off while removed the inline spark tester, everything started working in test mode as it should. then i realized spark A was 2/3, B was 1/4.

so i think i learned through trial and error, and pease tell me if im wrong. when youre done with a test, hit stop, then disable test mode, then burn, then close and go on with life?


everything seems to be working except the tach on the instrument cluster. any ideas on that? maybe because i have spark B driving the 1/4 channel on the igniter. i havnt looked at the schematic yet to see hwere the tach gets its info.

also, in my version of tunerstudio i dont have the base timing setting available, just offset. in other write ups ive seen for ms2/2x, you set base timing to 10 degrees in software, then either adjust the offset in software or the cas physically to get 10 degrees at the timing tab. am i going for 0 degrees or 10 degrees at the timing tab?

hi_im_sean

iTrader: (3)

/\ dumb question. i looked at the menus and figured out how to set base timing.

and from what ive read, i need a pull up for the tach sig at the diag. conn to get the tach working again.

i breaded boarded the transistors like i should have to begin with and discovered i had them in backwards.


i soldered them back in everything works

got the car idling decently and enabled veal. went for a little drive and it just got better and better. i need to throw that tach resistor in and adjust the wideband calibration about 0.3afr even though i have overbuilt star grounds.

i have accel enrichments disabled, should i turn those on after veal does its thing or now?

any comments on target afr table? i copied the curve from someone here and just rescaled it for my kpa scale and made a few tweaks.


made a 1/2" flange






manifold is dry fitted, just need to cut the tacks, bevel everything and weld it all together. should i relief cut the flange between the runners with a log? if yes, i would assume you would machine it flat after you make the cuts?

hi_im_sean

iTrader: (3)

1k resistor from ig- to b+ didnt do anything. what do i need to do to get this tach working?

what does igniter pin E do? it goes to the ecu pin 2I.


its too hot in phoenix to tune lol. i went out for a veal session and my laptop went into thermal protection in about 10 minutes.

hi_im_sean

iTrader: (3)

manifold is done

i machined a piece of 3/4" plate flat and drilled and tapped it for the flange bolt pattern. i bolted the flange to it for the runner welding for obvious reasons.

20140715_123825_zps7ic15tpz.jpg?t=1405564120

it still warped a little, i havnt measure how much, i would guess around 0.015". im going to mount it on the mill and make it flat again, i just hate loosing flange thickness even if its juts a little.

im not very proud of my welds but they should be strong. wire feed was to high, and i didnt really think of it until i was about done.







so relief cuts or no relief cuts?

theres one stud hole i need to spot face for the nut. but welding stayed far enough away from the rest that no cleanup was needed on the others.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

sounds like you killed your ignitor when you had the spark signals outputting incorrectly.

it sends a constant 5v signal to the ignitor that burns it up.

im assuming if you test, ig- minus goes straight to ground?

hi_im_sean

iTrader: (3)

I replied with my readings in the other thread, you must reply to too many threads lol

1.5k to ground at the diag conn with or without the pull up resistor
2.56M measured at the ignitor with it unplugged measuring directly on the pins.

Im going to try to get my scope on it today.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

when i fubared one of my toyota cops, that's what was happening. basically the single coil was holding the signal to ground so I lost my tach.

It should pulse from 12v to ground when working properly. the 1K resistor you add is providing the pull-up to 12v that you remove when you pull out the stock ECU (b/w 2I) that normally connects to the y/b wire on the ignitor, which goes to the diagnostics box and dash tach.

with jusy key on, you should see 12v on that signal, then see it pulse to ground as teh coils fire. the signal is converted, based on the rate of 4 pulses, to move your tachometer.

curly

iTrader: (25)

Relief cuts yes!

I had massive warping issues. If you're worried about flange thickness, definitely cut it, or you'll be milling it every month down to nothing.

After cutting between 1&2 and 3&4, I've had no issues.