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Old 02-22-2016, 08:14 PM   #1181
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No downside, unless you want like 12AN hose or something.
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Old 02-23-2016, 09:08 AM   #1182
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Tips on EBC open loop table values? the axis primarily. I see a lot of people have an initial RPM value below idle rpm to keep the valve from doing stupid **** while cranking or whatever.

so im thinking 200, 1k, 2k, 3k, 4k, 5k, 6.2k, 7.5k

Assuming my firmware is up to date (need to check) I was going to do 100% in all the cells below threshold, and 50% in the rest for starters, and set over boost protection to whatever(18 or 20 I guess). Or Aidan can give me screenshot?

Also, just discovered an E85 station that is just close enough to me (about 8 or 9 miles) to start thinking about doing flex fuel with MS3... I should drive by there and verify first and not just assume the internet is correct.
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Old 02-23-2016, 09:14 AM   #1183
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Here is what I am using currently. I used this image in a video so it has some explanation that you probably won't need.

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Old 02-23-2016, 09:16 AM   #1184
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I don't understand the point of anything below like 2k on the axis. its pointless and I don't use it (bcs can't do any "weird s*" like you say unless it's regulating pressure differential)

50% is pretty high, start with teens and work your way up

*edit: the above table makes NO sense. why would you make it spool slow and then ramp up to redline? are you trying to make the car feel like it's n/a?
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Old 02-23-2016, 09:28 AM   #1185
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 90civichhb View Post
Here is what I am using currently. I used this image in a video so it has some explanation that you probably won't need.

thanks
Quote:
Originally Posted by 18psi View Post
I don't understand the point of anything below like 2k on the axis. its pointless and I don't use it (bcs can't do any "weird s*" like you say unless it's regulating pressure differential)

50% is pretty high, start with teens and work your way up
Ive read a few posts where people had issues, but they dated back to 08 and 12', different FW. thanks vlad

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*edit: the above table makes NO sense. why would you make it spool slow and then ramp up to redline? are you trying to make the car feel like it's n/a?
older firmware, I would basically invert his values.
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Old 02-23-2016, 09:39 AM   #1186
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oh ok makes more sense now.

I really don't like the fact that they changed things so drastically, cause every time we discuss this now we gotta mention which eleventybillionth firmware version you have and it will dictate which completely different approach you need to take to tuning
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Old 02-23-2016, 09:47 AM   #1187
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oh ok makes more sense now.

I really don't like the fact that they changed things so drastically, cause every time we discuss this now we gotta mention which eleventybillionth firmware version you have and it will dictate which completely different approach you need to take to tuning
Yes, it has made doing any research hard too. I have found a few guys getting MS2 or pre FW 3.?.x advise for their post 3.?.x and tearing their hair out lolz.
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Old 02-26-2016, 07:34 PM   #1188
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Dear Hive,

Can I run ABS front hubs on my non ABS NA?

Front drivers side died, again. ABS hubs are cheaper for some reason.
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Old 02-26-2016, 07:35 PM   #1189
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yes

how much? trying to decide between new and repacking 2 of the 4 i have here
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Old 02-26-2016, 07:36 PM   #1190
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The spindles are the same, don't see why not.

Well, most of the spindles are the same. Some have the ear missing machining, and some seem to be missing the ear entirely.

Just my .02, I'd wait to see what someone with experience says.
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Old 02-26-2016, 07:37 PM   #1191
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you can always just knock the tone ring off, otherwise they are the same
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Old 02-26-2016, 07:38 PM   #1192
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Default sean's cheap thrills, 90 1.6 with subaru td04

Cool beans.


Aaron, now we know for next time, or for the trailer.
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Old 03-01-2016, 04:30 PM   #1193
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These are all dusty from sitting... wherever they were sitting, for years it would appear. Suits my car perfectly. The fittings were appropriately plugged though (removed for pics).







The other one has come white oxidation on the bare aluminium that ill have to scrub off.

Would it be useful to log data at the ports of the cooler?
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sean's cheap thrills, 90 1.6 with subaru td04-80-20160301_141236_hdr_zpsvwnbom08_a6c3cb0055d7978f8da3b76d6b33660033f043d9.jpg   sean's cheap thrills, 90 1.6 with subaru td04-80-20160301_141251_hdr_zpsfa4rsdfe_3e5a87c727596db26bee08e9156f361c68b440c0.jpg   sean's cheap thrills, 90 1.6 with subaru td04-80-20160301_141301_hdr_zpsjjebtyle_1c098cfab16ba28299fd8c73799136f36c29318c.jpg  
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Old 03-01-2016, 04:32 PM   #1194
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Yes. If you have the ***** to drill and tap.
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Old 03-01-2016, 04:33 PM   #1195
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Yes. If you have the ***** to drill and tap.
No silly. They would be in the lines using a union.
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Old 03-01-2016, 04:34 PM   #1196
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Takes up moar space. Space was a premium for me there.

Also are you sure the temp sensor wouldn't protrude too far in?

Just make another hex thingy, and then drill and tap the sandwich plate.
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Old 03-14-2016, 11:51 PM   #1197
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Default sean's cheap thrills, 90 1.6 with subaru td04

So I have EBC working flawlessly so far, wastegate target table switch works as it should. Im still working up to ALLOFIT. So far Ive had it set up to hit 12 psi, then it tapers off to about 8 by red line, for no other reason than thats exactly what my first stab at the target table did. This car is so much fun.


So I figured id add up my entire turbo cost to date from my spread sheet. If the tittle isnt clear enough, I tried to do this as cheap as possible, while still being of decent quality.


I have a spreadsheet that shows every penny ive (weve) spent on this car. This should be only the things directly related to turbo.
-$50 turbo
-$47.49 turbo rebuild kit
-$121.02 exhaust flanges and weld els
-$600 1.8 torsen diff
-$125 1.8 drivesahft for 1.8 diff
-$440.75 MS3
-$5.28 EBC transistor
-$22.57 wells vtps
-$70 used greddy typr rs BOV from aidan7
-$168.79 AEM UEGO
-$8.39 boost select switch
-$8.55 panel mount usb
-$60.98 deezums ebay intercooler with super turbularots
-$372.83 949 cross flow rad
-$20 sheet metal for heat shield and airbox
-$186.23 intercooler piping, couplers, air filter, oil hose and AN fittings
-$35.96 3" v bands (x2)
-$53.54 more couplers
-$11.99 turbo oil fitting with restrictor
-$13.18 ebay bov flange pipe
-$5.49 block oil fitting
-$15.70 more couplers
-$25.93 MAC solenoid, EBC
-$21.95 kia water neck for reroute
-$9.50 TD04 gaskets
-$43.99 3" 180-45 exhaust bend
-$16.01 1.5" vibrant flex coupler
-$22.50 3" jones flex coupler
-$3.38 x2 reroute spacer/water neck gaskets
-$7.97 1.5" rad hose anti-collpase spring thingy, SS
-$6.99 rad hose clamp for holding to intake
-$7.95 3"-2.5" exhaust cone
-$23.94 1.5" exhaust J bend
-$16.97 4ft of 3" exhaust pipe
-$35.94 x2, 2.5", 45 exhaust pipes for DP
-$19.97 2.5" 120 exhaust pipe for DP
-$39.95 5ft of 1.25" silicone rad hose
-$67.59 walker 17267 muffler
-$12.60 2.5" band clamp
-$130 cylinder head machining​, new stem seals
-$36 misc hardware for intercooler and water lines
-$23.48 mezierre water neck
-$2.15 t bolt clamp
-$16.76 fire sheath
-$29.99 DEI titanium and SS zip ties
-$434.74 Rods, bearings, rings, piston circlips, gaskets for rods only build
-$467 ACT xtreme
-$25 turbo oil drain fittings and hose and gaskets
-$16 deezums catch can stuff
-$120 GT500 injectors
-$59 injector plug and play kit
-$65 setrab oil cooler
-$80 misc hose clamps, hose, breather filter, vacuum caps
-$12 colder plugs
-$22 Inconel stock

$4365.99

I made my own boomslang, I made some of the vbands, i fabbed the entire exhaust, and brackets, I machined my own reroute spacer and rebuilt the engine myself. I made a few of my own tools, fabbed the lower neck/almunum pipe delete, and had a lot of the meterials used laying around. A friend machined the inconel studs. Getting the point yet...... Good lesson for the noobs.


To be track worthy, I still need:

-$100 hood vents
-$500 6 speed
-$200 the rest of the stuff to finish the oil cooler
And im sure im forgetting a few things on both lists.

Im going to try and auto tune as much as possible over the next few weeks, then maybe take it to the dyno to get it dialed in and see some numbers. I might wait until 6 speed for that.

Last edited by hi_im_sean; 03-15-2016 at 08:42 AM.
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Old 03-15-2016, 08:07 AM   #1198
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Man, having the tools and resources to fabricate really brings costs down. I have a bit less than you in my 1.6L build but the motor is untouched and I went with an RX-7 diff build. Less injector, lighter clutch, 300zx studs, and MS2PNP.

Good budget build, looking forward to seeing how much power you can get out of your car with rods. I am pushing about 180kpa though mine with EBC and find that my 195/15 Toyo R1Rs are about at their limit for autocross.
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Old 03-15-2016, 08:45 AM   #1199
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Im on worn out 205 kumho XSs. It struggles to find traction in 2nd, it dances around under a full throttle pull. I need some better street rubber i guess.

Which reminds me, aaron sold me his 245 RC1s! My first real track rubber. I'm excite.
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Old 03-16-2016, 06:40 PM   #1200
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hi_im_sean View Post
To be track worthy, I still need:

-$100 hood vents
-$500 6 speed
-$200 the rest of the stuff to finish the oil cooler
And im sure im forgetting a few things on both lists.

Im going to try and auto tune as much as possible over the next few weeks, then maybe take it to the dyno to get it dialed in and see some numbers. I might wait until 6 speed for that.


thanks to silentoreo!
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