Second Phase Almost Complete
07-21-2009, 11:31 PM
#21
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Good job! Now come do my suspension for me 
One of my least favorite forms of modification (to do, not to feel results of). I kind of wish I had done the Tein's from the get go instead of all of the **** I've gone through. Would have been cheaper too, and surely easier.
One of my least favorite forms of modification (to do, not to feel results of). I kind of wish I had done the Tein's from the get go instead of all of the **** I've gone through. Would have been cheaper too, and surely easier.
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07-21-2009, 11:41 PM
#23
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Damn, you suck. Including my most recent purchase that hasn't been shipped yet, I have spent probably $2k in suspension, thats including the retarded decision to get OEM bushings at $600-$650 instead of something like Energy bushings for like $200. All of that time and money and my car still rides like a covered wagon, and doesn't handle all that well. Maybe it will once I get the Bilstein's back on with FM springs and FCM mounts that are on their way.
Not to jack your thread, but while we are on the suspension topic, does anyone think worn diff mounts could cause a rattle/clunk going over bumps? After all of this work I still have the original clunk I set out to cure. I've always suspected my diff bushings/mounts to be worn out, and have never inspected them. Do you think maybe that could cause this damn rattle/clunk? Just popped in my head and I had to ask.
Not to jack your thread, but while we are on the suspension topic, does anyone think worn diff mounts could cause a rattle/clunk going over bumps? After all of this work I still have the original clunk I set out to cure. I've always suspected my diff bushings/mounts to be worn out, and have never inspected them. Do you think maybe that could cause this damn rattle/clunk? Just popped in my head and I had to ask.
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07-22-2009, 12:02 AM
#24
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Clunk from diff bushings? I don't know. I've parted out some NA's that were close to 200K and the diff bushings seemed completely intact.
I'd more suspect u-joints. Mine is starting to make some clunking noise on/off throttle even when gentle and I suspect u-joints. Sounds like my truck that had a rear u-joint going out. Replaced it and all was well.
I'd more suspect u-joints. Mine is starting to make some clunking noise on/off throttle even when gentle and I suspect u-joints. Sounds like my truck that had a rear u-joint going out. Replaced it and all was well.
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07-22-2009, 12:23 AM
#25
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I don't think its that kind of clunk. Its for sure from bumps, not on/off throttle related. I will save this for another thread, don't want to **** yours up any further.
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07-22-2009, 10:37 AM
#27
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When you say "never" I'm assuming you dont auto x or track the car?
For auto x I have heard to start full hard on the front, 4 clicks down on the rears and adjust from there.
Track - I have no idea. Maybe Hustler can give some pointers for starting settings. I don't remember if he went Flex or Mono, though.
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07-22-2009, 03:02 PM
#28
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One thing that I did neglect to mention-my downpipe had started to rattle a bit a month ago. I didn't know what the cause was but I hadn't had a chance to get under the car to find out.
Well, I did. I am now a member of "my turbo is loose" club. I could move the DP up and down and the turbo was loose on the mani. That said, I had never retorqued the turbo-to-mani studs since the install. We'll see if they hold now that they have been retorqued. Otherwise, it looks like I need to get some resbond.
I'm running 5/16" Holley carb studs threaded through the weirtech flange and nutted on the back side to lock them in place. Three were still tight, except for the upper front one which was loose about 1/4 turn which stands to reason as it sees the greatest load. On the rest the nuts were loose. This was running with generic nuts and lock washers. It held for four months, rattled the last month.
I'll keep an eye on it now.
Well, I did. I am now a member of "my turbo is loose" club. I could move the DP up and down and the turbo was loose on the mani. That said, I had never retorqued the turbo-to-mani studs since the install. We'll see if they hold now that they have been retorqued. Otherwise, it looks like I need to get some resbond.
I'm running 5/16" Holley carb studs threaded through the weirtech flange and nutted on the back side to lock them in place. Three were still tight, except for the upper front one which was loose about 1/4 turn which stands to reason as it sees the greatest load. On the rest the nuts were loose. This was running with generic nuts and lock washers. It held for four months, rattled the last month.
I'll keep an eye on it now.
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07-22-2009, 03:53 PM
#29
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7/6 also. It does ride cherry.
When you say "never" I'm assuming you dont auto x or track the car?
For auto x I have heard to start full hard on the front, 4 clicks down on the rears and adjust from there.
Track - I have no idea. Maybe Hustler can give some pointers for starting settings. I don't remember if he went Flex or Mono, though.
When you say "never" I'm assuming you dont auto x or track the car?
For auto x I have heard to start full hard on the front, 4 clicks down on the rears and adjust from there.
Track - I have no idea. Maybe Hustler can give some pointers for starting settings. I don't remember if he went Flex or Mono, though.
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07-23-2009, 08:39 AM
#30
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Last night I did the boost signal reroute. Originally, I had the classic "loop from compressor housing to WG".
I drilled and tapped the cold side charge pipe just before the TB, JB welded and screwed an 1/8" brass hose barb in there and ran it over to the driver's side. I installed the GM EBC as well, but it is just flowing through as it is not hooked up. I wanted to see what the restriction of the EBC solenoid would do. It's a pretty small hole through and there is some restriction when you blow through it. It appears that my fears were unfounded. Seems to work fine.
It used to hold tight at 7 psi. Now it pegs at 10 psi so I was losing 3 psi through the old IC. These are boost guage readings as I didn't have a chance to log it yet.
As I am in untuned (previously guesstimated) cells now, it's pretty rich. Running 11-11.5. So now I have more tuning to do tonight.
Kind of surprised. It didn't feel much faster. I'm sure the rich tune and retarded map has something to do with it, but I can stand on it in second and not a squeak from the tires. 10 psi on a 99 should be more than this.
I know that Hustler said that they picked up 40whp or so just with dyno tuning so I hope that is the case.
I drilled and tapped the cold side charge pipe just before the TB, JB welded and screwed an 1/8" brass hose barb in there and ran it over to the driver's side. I installed the GM EBC as well, but it is just flowing through as it is not hooked up. I wanted to see what the restriction of the EBC solenoid would do. It's a pretty small hole through and there is some restriction when you blow through it. It appears that my fears were unfounded. Seems to work fine.
It used to hold tight at 7 psi. Now it pegs at 10 psi so I was losing 3 psi through the old IC. These are boost guage readings as I didn't have a chance to log it yet.
As I am in untuned (previously guesstimated) cells now, it's pretty rich. Running 11-11.5. So now I have more tuning to do tonight.
Kind of surprised. It didn't feel much faster. I'm sure the rich tune and retarded map has something to do with it, but I can stand on it in second and not a squeak from the tires. 10 psi on a 99 should be more than this.
I know that Hustler said that they picked up 40whp or so just with dyno tuning so I hope that is the case.
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07-23-2009, 08:52 AM
#32
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I thought about it when I was installing them. It's a bitch to adjust the driver's rear as you have to reach in around all of the fuel tank lines. Plus, you have to leave the metal cover plate and the two trunk trim panels out of the trunk. In the end, I probably won't. Like y8s said, he leaves his full soft the whole time and I agree that the ride is good with them that way. If I am going to adjust them literally once or twice a month max, I'll probably pass.
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07-23-2009, 10:39 AM
#33
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I thought about it when I was installing them. It's a bitch to adjust the driver's rear as you have to reach in around all of the fuel tank lines. Plus, you have to leave the metal cover plate and the two trunk trim panels out of the trunk. In the end, I probably won't. Like y8s said, he leaves his full soft the whole time and I agree that the ride is good with them that way. If I am going to adjust them literally once or twice a month max, I'll probably pass.
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