Shuiend blows motor #5; Naturally Aspirated Glory Incoming
10-29-2010, 04:26 PM
#303
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What brand is your fuel rail? I am installing a FM dual feed and new injectors this weekend.
I just lube up the injector o rings with some oil. Those stupid injector holes in the head also get so dirty. I think it is just luck whether or not your **** leaks fuel or vacuum when you tighten down the rail.
I just lube up the injector o rings with some oil. Those stupid injector holes in the head also get so dirty. I think it is just luck whether or not your **** leaks fuel or vacuum when you tighten down the rail.
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10-29-2010, 04:29 PM
#304
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What brand is your fuel rail? I am installing a FM dual feed and new injectors this weekend.
I just lube up the injector o rings with some oil. Those stupid injector holes in the head also get so dirty. I think it is just luck whether or not your **** leaks fuel or vacuum when you tighten down the rail.
I just lube up the injector o rings with some oil. Those stupid injector holes in the head also get so dirty. I think it is just luck whether or not your **** leaks fuel or vacuum when you tighten down the rail.
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10-29-2010, 07:15 PM
#306
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I had a soap opera with the DW injectors' O-rings too. They are way more finicky than RC injectors for some reason.
If you tightened the rail down and got a fuel leak, those O-rings which leaked are goners. Search for my post re: proper replacements.
The trick is to semi-position the injectors in the head, position the rail, then one by one carefully pull the injectors up with a twisting motion, to properly seat their O-rings, starting at one end, working your way in a line to the last injector. The difference in the feeling of when the injector O ring is properly seated, vs. slightly cocked and leaky, or the feeling of the O-ring popping in place, is quite subtle.
Then you make damn sure they are all properly seated before you cinch down the 3 bolts that hold the rail down. And as you tighten them evenly, you twist the injectors slightly to verify the feeling that they are seated.
You will want several extra O rings.
BTW another good tip is to JB weld or silicone the 3 black spacers that sit between the rail and the mounting bosses on the head, to the head, because they like to fall out and disappear at the worst times.
Your fuel leak is between the injectors and the rail. The bottom, where the injectors go into the head, will leak vacuum/boost, not fuel.
If you tightened the rail down and got a fuel leak, those O-rings which leaked are goners. Search for my post re: proper replacements.
The trick is to semi-position the injectors in the head, position the rail, then one by one carefully pull the injectors up with a twisting motion, to properly seat their O-rings, starting at one end, working your way in a line to the last injector. The difference in the feeling of when the injector O ring is properly seated, vs. slightly cocked and leaky, or the feeling of the O-ring popping in place, is quite subtle.
Then you make damn sure they are all properly seated before you cinch down the 3 bolts that hold the rail down. And as you tighten them evenly, you twist the injectors slightly to verify the feeling that they are seated.
You will want several extra O rings.
BTW another good tip is to JB weld or silicone the 3 black spacers that sit between the rail and the mounting bosses on the head, to the head, because they like to fall out and disappear at the worst times.
Your fuel leak is between the injectors and the rail. The bottom, where the injectors go into the head, will leak vacuum/boost, not fuel.
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10-30-2010, 12:08 PM
#308
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I had a soap opera with the DW injectors' O-rings too. They are way more finicky than RC injectors for some reason.
If you tightened the rail down and got a fuel leak, those O-rings which leaked are goners. Search for my post re: proper replacements.
The trick is to semi-position the injectors in the head, position the rail, then one by one carefully pull the injectors up with a twisting motion, to properly seat their O-rings, starting at one end, working your way in a line to the last injector. The difference in the feeling of when the injector O ring is properly seated, vs. slightly cocked and leaky, or the feeling of the O-ring popping in place, is quite subtle.
Then you make damn sure they are all properly seated before you cinch down the 3 bolts that hold the rail down. And as you tighten them evenly, you twist the injectors slightly to verify the feeling that they are seated.
You will want several extra O rings.
BTW another good tip is to JB weld or silicone the 3 black spacers that sit between the rail and the mounting bosses on the head, to the head, because they like to fall out and disappear at the worst times.
Your fuel leak is between the injectors and the rail. The bottom, where the injectors go into the head, will leak vacuum/boost, not fuel.
If you tightened the rail down and got a fuel leak, those O-rings which leaked are goners. Search for my post re: proper replacements.
The trick is to semi-position the injectors in the head, position the rail, then one by one carefully pull the injectors up with a twisting motion, to properly seat their O-rings, starting at one end, working your way in a line to the last injector. The difference in the feeling of when the injector O ring is properly seated, vs. slightly cocked and leaky, or the feeling of the O-ring popping in place, is quite subtle.
Then you make damn sure they are all properly seated before you cinch down the 3 bolts that hold the rail down. And as you tighten them evenly, you twist the injectors slightly to verify the feeling that they are seated.
You will want several extra O rings.
BTW another good tip is to JB weld or silicone the 3 black spacers that sit between the rail and the mounting bosses on the head, to the head, because they like to fall out and disappear at the worst times.
Your fuel leak is between the injectors and the rail. The bottom, where the injectors go into the head, will leak vacuum/boost, not fuel.
I am off to advance to pick up some O-rings now and then will reinstall those 2.
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10-30-2010, 01:10 PM
#309
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I just noticed something on one of my injectors.
One of my injectors is missing the little yellow part on top. I have looked all around for it and I cannot find it. Should I try just putting 2 o-rings on there? I will be contacting DW Monday to see if I can get a replacement.
One of my injectors is missing the little yellow part on top. I have looked all around for it and I cannot find it. Should I try just putting 2 o-rings on there? I will be contacting DW Monday to see if I can get a replacement.
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10-30-2010, 02:36 PM
#310
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So I swapped back to my 94 fuel rail to see if that helped. I am still getting leaks on 2 of the injectors. It seems that when I have the fuel rail tightened down the angle of the injectors is off and that is causing the leaks. I am attaching 2 pictures to help illustrate what is going on the best that I can show it.
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10-30-2010, 03:03 PM
#311
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I found some old tan tops that I had and compared the DW to them and the DW injectors are definitely shorter. When I threw in the tan tops the car started up right away and no fuel leaks. I am going to try the DW without the spacers and see how they work then. If not, I might drive around on my tan tops for the engine break-in period and then until I talk to DW about the shortness.
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10-30-2010, 06:26 PM
#312
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So after fuxoring with my **** today this is what I have gotten done. The DW1000cc injectors are about a quarter inch shorter then my stock tan tops. When using the tan tops I get no fuel leaks, but they do not have pintel caps so I get bad vacuum leaks there. I let the car semi-idle and get up to coolant temps of 180 degrees. I then drained the oil and it looked perfect. No water or gas and nothing was coming down the side of my blocks.
I will be off to all the local parts stores tomorrow to see if any of them have pintel caps. I do not have my hopes up, but you never know. Then first thing Monday morning I will be calling DW to try to get my injectors sorted out. Once I get my fuel situation sorted out I should be able to get the thing on the road.
I will be off to all the local parts stores tomorrow to see if any of them have pintel caps. I do not have my hopes up, but you never know. Then first thing Monday morning I will be calling DW to try to get my injectors sorted out. Once I get my fuel situation sorted out I should be able to get the thing on the road.
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10-31-2010, 07:46 PM
#315
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That actually makes a lot of sense, because when I would tighten down my fuel rail the angle would be off. I actually used an nb rail the first time I put my engine together, but it fell and got bent to badly to be used. I guess I will be giving panic motorsports a call tomorrow and ordering a new one.
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11-01-2010, 03:14 PM
#317
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I just noticed something on one of my injectors.
One of my injectors is missing the little yellow part on top. I have looked all around for it and I cannot find it. Should I try just putting 2 o-rings on there? I will be contacting DW Monday to see if I can get a replacement.
One of my injectors is missing the little yellow part on top. I have looked all around for it and I cannot find it. Should I try just putting 2 o-rings on there? I will be contacting DW Monday to see if I can get a replacement.
are those things just caps to protect the injectors? i wouldn't think you'd want to use them...not quote me on that... and how did you lose one?!
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