richyvrlimited

iTrader: (1)

You can 'fix' this by slipping the clutch at low speed in 5th (so a high speed differential between clutch and flywheel).

It'll absolutely stink, and you'll take some life off the clutch, but for the next month or so it'll work perfectly, no judder at all.

Been doing this on my MK2.5 for the last 24 months, damn thing still hasn't died, FML.

Erat

iTrader: (5)

Slipping the clutch helped. Thanks fellas.

But i've got a CEL for the rear O2 sensor. Reset the battery, still comes back.
I got under it and it looks like someone spliced in a new sensor (maybe used). I found a loose connection, fixed it and it's still throwing the CEL... This could be cause for my misfire, hesitation and slight bucking at low RPM.

I guess i'm going to have to leave it for now. The other O2 sensor is still working fine, that should keep things in check.

williams805

iTrader: (2)

The secondary O2 would not cause drivability problems in a vehicle of this vintage. It's there to monitor the catalyst and that's about it.

What is the code exactly? If it has something to do with "secondary O2 heater", it's most likely the sensor is bad. Obviously check powers and grounds first but 99% of the time a heater code is a bad sensor.

Sometimes they will cause inefficient catalyst codes. I would look else where for drivability issues.

mxturbo

Can you post the last spark map please?

Erat

iTrader: (5)

Not sure why. Are you trying to embarrass me?

Anyway, tunerstudio updated and now it wont open. But i have this. This should be current, except i added either 5* or 8* in everything 128kpa and up.
It's pretty generic and somewhat conservative if i must say so.

mxturbo

Thanks!

Erat

iTrader: (5)

NB clutch chatter is still there. Maybe it's due to the fact that i never drive above 35mph and it's mainly stop signs every day of the week.
Finally got pissed off ended up power shifting it a few times and generally ragged on it, that's when it drives fine. I couldn't make this up. If i drive it slow / normal i get tons of chatter, bucking, jerking, bogging, ect. I've got an O2 sensor code pop up #2 so that needs to get fixed. I may end up with a new clutch in this thing very very soon...

But i have a new keychain.

It matches the NB and is a turbo... Guess i gotta turbo the NB now?


In news on the NA, obviously i installed my COP's.


I still need to do a bunch of wire sorting / tucking and generally clean things up. Along with somehow tie down the COP wires. It's all going to get sorted. Which brings me to my next thing.
I started ordering some fuel upgrade parts. So i'll do both at once while i'm in there. Along with a bunch of new tools to hopefully help me work on cars easier. This winter has really been killing me lately. No motivation.

richyvrlimited

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, that's normal MK2.5 clutch judder.

Seriously slip it till it stinks to hell, then it won't judder again for a week or two.

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

Erat, where did you mount the black box thing for the COPs?

Erat

iTrader: (5)

Haven't mounted it yet.

When i do my fuel, i'm going to run SS lines and probably a pressure gauge. So i may make some type of bracket. I'm not sure. I don't really want to screw into my firewall or any of that.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

Screwing into the cowl area is ok the plastic cover thing on the passenger's side makes it a pain in the dick to get to the nuts though. I tired sheet metal screws once, the FPR was supported by only the fuel line with the screws nowhere to be found after a few auto-x's.

Erat

iTrader: (5)

I'm thinking i just get an adapter for my OEM fuel rail, and hook the FPR onto that...

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

I doubt you can make one, besides stock, fit directly on the rail.

Erat

iTrader: (5)

Was a nice day yesterday.



Started the miata, started rebuilding the VE map from 100kpa+. Took it for a spin. Plugs are to hot, was blowing out spark.
We knew this going in, but tried anyway. Colder spark plugs will be coming
Can't get the car to idle worth a damn. I've about exhausted my tuning abilities. But, i can't give up yet.
More parts should be on the way too.

Erat

iTrader: (5)

Parts are rolling in.



Six speed rebuild, and fluids are in. I bought latches for the NB, but they're shiny and i kinda like them so i may toss them on the NA, then put the NA latches in the NB. Not sure yet.

Took the car up to Bryan to get some different plugs. Didn't fix the problem.
After more digging we opened up the MS to find that only 2 of the 4 logic level outputs had pullups, IGN1 & IGN2 had pullups. WLED & ALED did not.
So i'm not even sure how my stock ignition setup was working. Perhaps it was only working at half it's potential?
Sent off an email to Matt at DIY and he said to put a specific resistor in for the ignition we're using, but i forgot which. We called it quits for the night. Will report back with the outcome on that.
I suppose i could add 4 of these and then have full sequential control over my coils.
http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/b...kit-p-230.html

concealer404

iTrader: (3)

I'll bet you could. In the Honda world, there's AFPRs that mount on the rail in factory location. They're pretty low profile, and there's a good amount of room where ours mount.

In fact.... somewhere i have a write-up on how to get one to work on an F2T, and there's less room on one of those.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

On what intake manifold. The stock NA FPR barely fits on an NB manifold. Maybe there's room on an NA but I forget.

concealer404

iTrader: (3)

Our car has a stock NA FPR on a VICS manifold. Room for days.

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

Correct me if I'm wrong (and I generally am) but I believe there are 2 variations of the NB fuel rail. One of them is far easier to fit an NA regulator on than the other.

Pics or GTFO (Please? )

concealer404

iTrader: (3)

I don't know about stock ****, what do i look like? M-Tuned rail. Don't know if that makes a big difference?