18psi

iTrader: (76)

oh snap
it gets better

Erat

iTrader: (5)

Well look what showed up first.



Unfortunately it won't be going on right away as i would like. I've been working on the NB lately so i have been DDing the red car here.


Since it's Miata content i suppose i'll share my hell:
Trying to attempt a clutch rear main job here.
Failure one:


This bad bitch did the trick, sorta... Ended up getting the bolt glowing red hot in about 30 seconds. Badass tool.

But i could only back the bolt out as far as the threads were.

Attempt #3, homemade / makeshift slide hammer.


FAILED!!!

Popped the capture nut off the top but this bolt is FROZEN the **** in. It will spin with about a 3 foot cheater bar but won't back down. That's 20lbs of weight on there... Came in to grab 20 more pounds and rant.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

I found it unnecessary to touch the rear PPF bolts the last time I pulled the engine. I was able to just shave the PPF out of the way enough by flexing the diff bushings.

Erat

iTrader: (5)

I don't want to pull the engine. Just get the transmission off.

I'm not even sure i'll be able to get the exhaust off.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

I'm confused. You said you were doing the clutch. Why arent you pulling the engine?

Erat

iTrader: (5)

I know, i know...
I'm to damn cheap to buy new coolant.
Plus i don't own a picker.

FAB

iTrader: (4)

I don't pull the engine to do the clutch or change the trans. Usually get a clutch or trans swapped in about 2 hours on my personal car. Granted this is a car that's pulled apart very regularly so I don't run into things like this...

Erat

iTrader: (5)

4 days ago when i started this job, i figured it would just be a 4 hour deal....

FAB

iTrader: (4)

I hope this was uploaded for some type of comedic response because I feel like I was watching bloompers form one of those performance garage shows on the speed network or something.

You should do two things. Take a cap full of PB blast, pour it on top of that bolt. Second take some heat and apply it to the sleeve that is visible from the side of the diff, then continue with your contraption (awesome idea btw, well executed). Props.

Erat

iTrader: (5)

I've used about a half a can of PB... Also, that machine i posted above gets the bolt as hot as acetylene but in about 30 seconds.

FAB

iTrader: (4)

Yeah but are you heating the bolt itself or the sleeve? You want to expand the sleeve with heat.

Erat

iTrader: (5)

The rear one isn't sleeved. Just the one further forward.

I think there are other issues here. I don't understand how this bolt is this stuck.

FAB

iTrader: (4)

You might also want to consider taking the front one loose and use a jack to support the PPF. Get some movement out of the PPF at least.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Drop the diff with the transmission?

Erat

iTrader: (5)

Gave up on the NB.

Got the MS3 in the red car... Instant headache. Starting from scratch sucks.

Couple notes right off the bat.
Tachometer in car doesn't work.
Wideband in MS doesn't work.
Car is hitting a fuel cut limit in idle.

I've spent the last 2 hours trying to fix just these items with no success. Well, i guess i have all winter. I'm glad i installed a wifi booster in the garage.

williams805

iTrader: (2)

18psi just had no tach on his Rev built MS. Needed to solder in a new part. Check the last page of his build thread. Maybe related.

Erat

iTrader: (5)

I saw that. He has a different year car, not sure if it makes a difference.

I'll send it back to rev before i go soldering **** onto it i can tell you that right now.

Erat

iTrader: (5)

So Rev said to wire my wideband into the yellow wire... Not sure why, it was working before when it was wired into the red/blue. Edit* Got it. Wrong setting.

He also said to install some sort of jumper for my tach signal... Just what i didn't want to do when i bought a plug and play unit.

I'm unsure what the check engine light is. But that's also on. It only is set to MAP sensor and EGO sensor. And i've got a SYNC fault light.

But it runs, very shitty. But it runs.

curly

iTrader: (25)

Rev units seem to need a little back and forth as every setup is a little different, unfortunately that can be frustrating because my wrench time is approx. 2am his time, and most of his responses are at 12-2am my time.

Once I figured out an injection issue though, it fired right up off his base map, incredibly pleased.

Have you checked your coolant based rev limits for the fuel cut issue described in post #555?

Also what coils are you using?

Erat

iTrader: (5)

Coolant based rev limits are fine. It's an idle issue. The old MS2 was doing it as well. I spent months using other peoples idle settings and trying to tune it out. I was hoping that some good idle settings on revs basemap would do the trick. Starting to think it's a hardware issue. IAC valve or something.
I'm using stock coils, 4 wire.

Here's a little video of it right out of the box. Everything calibrated, timed, connected, on the stock basemap no settings changed. That was me gave it a little throttle right before i shut it off. I seemed to fix the "SYNC fault" and check engine light issue, not sure how.


Can someone tell me this is a hardware issue and not just a "tune your damn idle noob"-vlad, issue.