Unfortunately it won't be going on right away as i would like. I've been working on the NB lately so i have been DDing the red car here.
Since it's Miata content i suppose i'll share my hell:
Trying to attempt a clutch rear main job here.
This bad bitch did the trick, sorta... Ended up getting the bolt glowing red hot in about 30 seconds. Badass tool.
But i could only back the bolt out as far as the threads were.
Attempt #3, homemade / makeshift slide hammer.
Popped the capture nut off the top but this bolt is FROZEN the **** in. It will spin with about a 3 foot cheater bar but won't back down. That's 20lbs of weight on there... Came in to grab 20 more pounds and rant.
I don't pull the engine to do the clutch or change the trans. Usually get a clutch or trans swapped in about 2 hours on my personal car. Granted this is a car that's pulled apart very regularly so I don't run into things like this...
I hope this was uploaded for some type of comedic response because I feel like I was watching bloompers form one of those performance garage shows on the speed network or something.
You should do two things. Take a cap full of PB blast, pour it on top of that bolt. Second take some heat and apply it to the sleeve that is visible from the side of the diff, then continue with your contraption (awesome idea btw, well executed). Props.
Rev units seem to need a little back and forth as every setup is a little different, unfortunately that can be frustrating because my wrench time is approx. 2am his time, and most of his responses are at 12-2am my time.
Once I figured out an injection issue though, it fired right up off his base map, incredibly pleased.
Have you checked your coolant based rev limits for the fuel cut issue described in post #555?
Coolant based rev limits are fine. It's an idle issue. The old MS2 was doing it as well. I spent months using other peoples idle settings and trying to tune it out. I was hoping that some good idle settings on revs basemap would do the trick. Starting to think it's a hardware issue. IAC valve or something.
I'm using stock coils, 4 wire.
Here's a little video of it right out of the box. Everything calibrated, timed, connected, on the stock basemap no settings changed. That was me gave it a little throttle right before i shut it off. I seemed to fix the "SYNC fault" and check engine light issue, not sure how.
Can someone tell me this is a hardware issue and not just a "tune your damn idle noob"-vlad, issue.