Braineack

iTrader: (62)

are you going to? could still get a sensor that can read over 30psi for about $12.

im just cheap, ignore me.

soviet

iTrader: (10)

lol. yeah I want to see how much ALL OF IT can make on an EFR. I'm sure a lot of people want to see it too. Am I going to run it on the street? Unlikely. Am I going to run all of it on track? HELL NO!

Faeflora

iTrader: (2)

Run it all on the street!!! I expext nothing less than rape on wheels next time i see car.

Also make sure tune is sorted before dyno or you may end up spending $xxxx when u get on it. Not cus of breakage but rather it is hard to back your car off when you want to squeeze out that last glorious pony or if somethibg is not working properly

soviet

iTrader: (10)

plan is to wire in the boost solenoid, figure it where 18-19psi is using open-loop duty table.
tune that for GUD AFR. then mess with PID closed loop boost control, although I doubt I'll have time to fully tune that.

i'm not too worried. my timing is still conservative and I think that dyno reads ***-high.

shuiend

iTrader: (24)

What dyno are you going to?

soviet

iTrader: (10)

Mach V. Dynojet. Because it's convenient and they run the shop well. And they don't hate on my gay little car
It's expensive, however. Baseline dyno - $100. Baseline dyno /w AFR printout - $135 I guess the subaru guys poop money! (its a subaru shop)

I got my boost solenoid working... and then it started to rain :(

18psi

iTrader: (76)

yes

hell yes

you are a man

Faeflora

iTrader: (2)

Subaru guys can't tune for shi

Look on subaru forums and they are like PROTUNE BRAH PROTUNE which means that they do not know what AFR or timing or detonation means.

me myself can not fault anyone for ignorance but this stuff really is not that hard to learn. closed loop feedback based tuning = easy. same thing with the availability of peak tq timing maps for our motors. yay

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

$35 to flip a switch on the wbo2 pump bothers me to no end, so much that I'd never ever give them my business.

please tell them that braineack feel this way.

soviet

iTrader: (10)

To be honest, I don't know what bothers me more $35 to flip a switch @ Mach V or going to York and getting an AFR printout that is no where near what your O2 sensor is reading.

I say, to hell with their sensors. I have my own

Faeflora

iTrader: (2)

I am looking forward to trying your frederick shop.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

true. there's also Moore Automotive in Fairfax. They are nice and dont charge extra for wbo2. I did 5 pulls there for $75, with boost AND wb logging.

soviet

iTrader: (10)

So, fun times were had.

Friday after i got my EBC working I played with it and figured out the duty % for 18-20psi. It was fun. I went out drinking.... aaand my main relay died. Fast forward Saturday night car is back home. Now, I always had "loss of sync" error 39 and it always happened at the worst moment. I just got my MS3x kit so I decided to use parts from it to build an opto-isolator circuit. So I did on Sunday. It worked, but car had slight random misfires. It bothered me but I went to sleep.

Next morning (today) I drive to work and the car pulls like ----. Sounds like one continious misfire in load and AFRs are all over. As I get closer to work it gets worse and worse to the point where the engine sounds like a tractor. At this point dyno is 1hr away. I texted my misfortunes to Faeflora and he, being a boss, suggests checking my coils.

I pull the coil connectors one by one while its running and find a faulty coil. I get sad... then remember I'm running Toyota COPs. 5 minutes later I'm at advance auto, buying a coil for my "2002 Toyota Corolla". Car is running butter smooth, pulls like rape @ 19psi.

I get to dyno place, giddy as ----. They take the car, and, as soon as they get it on the rollers, it starts making a massive rattling noise. 3 seconds later the crank pulley flies from under the engine. All 4 crank pulley bolts - sheared.

I call AAA and get it towed home....
to be continued

viperormiata

iTrader: (24)

I am sad

curly

iTrader: (25)

In for inconel crank studs.

soviet

iTrader: (10)

I'm quite certain I just over-tightened the belt. It seems that with a BP engine, your bolts will either back out and go missing or shear. There is not in-between.

Why did I retightnen my belt? Because an alternator bracket bolt decided to unscrew itself and go on vacation.

In retrospect, should start following torque specs

shuiend

iTrader: (24)

I think it is because you are friends with Failflora. Anyone who has either touched his car or let him use their tools will never have a correctly running miata.

soviet

iTrader: (10)

I was thinking that too.
Faeflora is mostly responsible for my current setup. He convinced me on a lot of things (like 1000cc injectors...)

I just don't get why the pulley would shear on the dyno. I did like five 100mph pulls literally minutes before that. No problem. Get on dyno, bolts fail. Not even loaded on dyno - it happened as they JUST put the car on the rollers. ----!

shuiend

iTrader: (24)

Is there at least enough of the bolts exposed to pull out the old ones? Also have you run over to finishline to pick up brand new ones yet?

Faeflora

iTrader: (2)

This is correct.




I am waiting for your "FML got pulled over and am going to jail for 10 days per mandatory 1 day of jail over 90mph in Fairfax County" txt



Wierd things happen on dyno. I think cars get like, WTF is this roller shi?????