To SSM Ahead of Schedule
09-24-2012, 02:54 PM
#21
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They rub on to the upper shock mount at full compression. and they also rub on the directional/running light wiring harness. I never had them at full lock but I would assume I get the same sway bar to tire contact and the same control arm to wheel contact as 225 RS3s on 15x9s.
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09-24-2012, 03:37 PM
#23
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Oh sorry. I forgot to take the picture while I had it apart. Its was pretty easy. Could I make one with hand tools if I didnt have CNC? Yeah. But it certainly wouldn't look pretty. You would have to buy a metric 5mm counter sink bit for your drill.
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10-05-2012, 08:29 AM
#24
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State of the wing as of wednesday night. Didn't take pictures last night.
The 2nd element foam cores ended up being super fragile and we had to cut almost as many extra as to make 2 wings because they would break just taking them out of the foam board and when sliding them on the tubes. Also the 3/4 inch thick foam is actually like .745, and when you're stacking that on a 60" length that **** adds up.
The 2nd element foam cores ended up being super fragile and we had to cut almost as many extra as to make 2 wings because they would break just taking them out of the foam board and when sliding them on the tubes. Also the 3/4 inch thick foam is actually like .745, and when you're stacking that on a 60" length that **** adds up.
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10-06-2012, 01:19 PM
#25
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More pictures. Found one more of the machining. When your fixture plate is that pretty, you know you're doin things right.
Top element before glassing.
Glassing in progress. I did not buy anywhere near enough resin. The styrafoam soaks this **** up like no one's business. I try to prevent that the best I can because its both expensive and heavy.
The top element didn't come out that great because we tried to do it in 1 piece of glass. This is a bad idea, its nearly impossible to get the glass to stay to the shape. The main plane is going to be done with 4 piece for each layer. Today I'm going to cut the shitty parts off the 2nd element and patch them, then keep working on the main plane, hoping I have enough resin to get 1 layer of glass on both elements. Then I've got the ***** ****** gallon container coming in which should be more than enough to finish. Then sanding, gel coat, anding, sanding, sanding, wax, endplates, mounts.
Top element before glassing.
Glassing in progress. I did not buy anywhere near enough resin. The styrafoam soaks this **** up like no one's business. I try to prevent that the best I can because its both expensive and heavy.
The top element didn't come out that great because we tried to do it in 1 piece of glass. This is a bad idea, its nearly impossible to get the glass to stay to the shape. The main plane is going to be done with 4 piece for each layer. Today I'm going to cut the shitty parts off the 2nd element and patch them, then keep working on the main plane, hoping I have enough resin to get 1 layer of glass on both elements. Then I've got the ***** ****** gallon container coming in which should be more than enough to finish. Then sanding, gel coat, anding, sanding, sanding, wax, endplates, mounts.
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10-24-2012, 10:35 AM
#26
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Getting there.
2nd element needs sanding, And I'm going to put another layer of glass on it because I still dont like how much it can flex. Then sand that one one more time and gel coat. After physically holding the wing over the car its going to be easier to make the mounts that I thought. And its going to look ridiculous.
2nd element needs sanding, And I'm going to put another layer of glass on it because I still dont like how much it can flex. Then sand that one one more time and gel coat. After physically holding the wing over the car its going to be easier to make the mounts that I thought. And its going to look ridiculous.
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11-20-2012, 06:46 PM
#27
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The wing is in my apartment now. It needs sanding and then to get sprayed with gel cote.
I just got off the phone with trackspeed, they finally got in contact with the harness people after months of not hearing from them. They "should be done next week". Thought they are going to come with some extra sub harnesses for extra power and grounds. The engine also isnt done yet. Andrew (savington) should have the engine assembled by Wednesday of next week. Only 3 months behind schedule.
I just got off the phone with trackspeed, they finally got in contact with the harness people after months of not hearing from them. They "should be done next week". Thought they are going to come with some extra sub harnesses for extra power and grounds. The engine also isnt done yet. Andrew (savington) should have the engine assembled by Wednesday of next week. Only 3 months behind schedule.
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12-03-2012, 12:18 PM
#28
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So according to savington my engine has been measured and test fitted but its not likely to be assembled until after the 25hours of thunder hill. And no word on the AEM EMS4 setup, if I dont have it by the time the MS3-pro is released I'm going to seriously consider changing direction with the ecu. Since I didnt have to pay for the engine on the November credit card bills I bought my welder.
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01-02-2013, 02:50 PM
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Better news, the EMS4 is located in a UPS vehicle somewhere between California and here. And I did the 90-93 dash swap and added some heat insulation. Why? Because **** you that's why. But seriously, I have a minimum weight in class that I'll have no problem achieving, and comfort is actually an important performance metric, its a lot easier to concentrate when your feet aren't on fire and its not a million decibels inside the car. I also removed the a/c condenser, because, the rest of the a/c doesnt exist.
Dash Out.
There are too many dashes on the floor.
Carpet out to get all the dirt out of it There was 66 cents under the carpet, and only 1 tiny rust spot under the drivers seat, I just wire brushed it clean and hit it with rustoleum.
Insulated.
New dash. I need to still get a glove compartment and the little metal piece that goes under the steering column.
Parts required for putting a 90-93 dash into a 94-97.
90-93 dash
2 footwell lights and 1 or 2 electrical connectors for them depending on your year.
90-93 tombstone/waterfall/radio surround whatever you want to call it
90-93 gauge hood
90-93 glove box
90-93 metal plate under the steering column
Anything not mentioned, you re-use, including your dash wiring harness
You'll also want to remove the air bag module, and the air bag light from the gauge cluster. And, you will struggle to plug the orange horn connector in on the passengers side behind the glove box because you will no longer have the blue air bag connector there. There is a small tab hiding on the orange connector that is normally depressed by the blue connector when you go to put it in, just depress that with a screw driver as you slide the connector in.
And for the footwell lights, you need to add the wiring in for the drivers side one if you want it to work. No big deal, cut splice, solder, heat shrink. I'm calling solder ok here, because ******* footwell lights are not a critical system.
Dash Out.
There are too many dashes on the floor.
Carpet out to get all the dirt out of it There was 66 cents under the carpet, and only 1 tiny rust spot under the drivers seat, I just wire brushed it clean and hit it with rustoleum.
Insulated.
New dash. I need to still get a glove compartment and the little metal piece that goes under the steering column.
Parts required for putting a 90-93 dash into a 94-97.
90-93 dash
2 footwell lights and 1 or 2 electrical connectors for them depending on your year.
90-93 tombstone/waterfall/radio surround whatever you want to call it
90-93 gauge hood
90-93 glove box
90-93 metal plate under the steering column
Anything not mentioned, you re-use, including your dash wiring harness
You'll also want to remove the air bag module, and the air bag light from the gauge cluster. And, you will struggle to plug the orange horn connector in on the passengers side behind the glove box because you will no longer have the blue air bag connector there. There is a small tab hiding on the orange connector that is normally depressed by the blue connector when you go to put it in, just depress that with a screw driver as you slide the connector in.
And for the footwell lights, you need to add the wiring in for the drivers side one if you want it to work. No big deal, cut splice, solder, heat shrink. I'm calling solder ok here, because ******* footwell lights are not a critical system.
Last edited by Leafy; 01-02-2013 at 03:01 PM.
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01-03-2013, 07:55 PM
#32
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I haven't weighed the car, but I should be close already. Of course I do have another 50-100 pounds of turbo and aero go on. But I still need to lose exhaust weight, seat weight, battery, front fenders. Before the dash work and the steering wheel swap the car was sitting at 2126 without driver and a 1/4 tank. So its less than 66 pounds over weight already. I'm confident I'll be adding ballast for the 2014 season. Its not going to be an all out weight weenie build just yet, the soft top is staying in for now, its not getting control arms, uprights or brakes this year.
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01-03-2013, 09:02 PM
#33
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I'm sorry. But with a Turbo, soft top, dynomat, stock brakes, control arms, radio, speakers etc etc etc there is NO WAY you will get below 2060 and be legal. I have done all that to my car AND more and it is still heavy by 9 lbs
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01-03-2013, 09:05 PM
#34
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I never said it would be under with stock brakes and soft top. Its not going to be under this year, I'm going to be about 120lbs over by my estimate, and I know there's more than 120 to take out.
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01-03-2013, 09:17 PM
#35
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You make it sound so easy. Finding 120lbs in these cars AND being SSM legal isn't easy at all. On my car the first 103lbs was relatively easy...but not cheap the last 17 lbs was A LOT of work. But hey...what do I know.
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01-04-2013, 10:35 AM
#38
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It was 4 pounds of insulation, I weighed it. Thats less than the weight difference between a burns and a normal glass pack. Theres compromise, thats how life works. I want a car I can focus in while I drive, auto-x is very mental, Its hard to focus when your feet are on fire. Yes I could save 2 pounds by pulling the insulation on the passenger side, and I might end up later. I went with this stuff because its really good for thermal insulation, and its easy to remove.
More on the weight thing. The first turbo manifold is going to be sch40 weld els, because I dont want it to break and I dont have $texas$ right now for a 316 Ti stainless manifold with a double slip merge collector. I was worried I'd end up with some 40 pound monstrosity. Even the most ridiculous nest of snakes twin scroll (just in case BW comes out with the TS housing) mani I can come up with only comes out to 17 pounds in solid works not including gussets. And I'm working on something similar, I just keep forgetting to take a few critical measurements of the car to make sure I get the turbo placed exactly where I want it and dont hit the steering column or the block.
And another thing I've been stewing over. The turbo. I look at soviets 6758 torque curve, I see the light of being able to hold 300ftlbs 4k to 8k. From the numbers I've been plugging into my spreadsheets, calculators, and plotting on compressor maps, the 6258 cannot do this, no ******* chance, holding it to 7k should be possible. But that kind of torque isnt useful to me this season since I'll be on a stock 5 speed and will be limiting my torque to 200ftlbs, and it likely wont be useful until I have a good traction control setup. The 6758 looks like it can do it, barely, 300 ftlb at 8k rides the choke line. The 6258, looks to be perfect for 250 ftlb, and at the 300ftlb level I'm at higher efficiencies in the 4-6k rpm range with the 62 wheel rather than the 67 wheel. And the 62 wheel could theoretically hit 300ftlb at 3k rpm, hopefully I'll never need to be going that slow. But transient response is the most important to me, I've auto-x evos/dsms with 16g or 20g turbos and I just couldnt figure out how to drive them, needing to floor it at corner entry so I had full power for corner exit. But driving the stroker miata with a baby turbo, there was no noticeable delay to throttle inputs, thats what I need, hence the reason to go with EFR in the first place. I made a quick model, the inertia difference between the 62 and 67 wheel is about 20-30%. Its around 100g*cm^2 difference, but comparing the inertia to any car sized turbo with an inconel turbine that inertia change is miniscule. So I dont think its going to be a big deal. But I'm still hung up on the choice. I guess the worst that could come out of the 6258 would be that 2 years down the road I buy the 6758, or something better if its come out when/if I want to try to make more power. If I buy the 67 first I'm not sure.
More on the weight thing. The first turbo manifold is going to be sch40 weld els, because I dont want it to break and I dont have $texas$ right now for a 316 Ti stainless manifold with a double slip merge collector. I was worried I'd end up with some 40 pound monstrosity. Even the most ridiculous nest of snakes twin scroll (just in case BW comes out with the TS housing) mani I can come up with only comes out to 17 pounds in solid works not including gussets. And I'm working on something similar, I just keep forgetting to take a few critical measurements of the car to make sure I get the turbo placed exactly where I want it and dont hit the steering column or the block.
And another thing I've been stewing over. The turbo. I look at soviets 6758 torque curve, I see the light of being able to hold 300ftlbs 4k to 8k. From the numbers I've been plugging into my spreadsheets, calculators, and plotting on compressor maps, the 6258 cannot do this, no ******* chance, holding it to 7k should be possible. But that kind of torque isnt useful to me this season since I'll be on a stock 5 speed and will be limiting my torque to 200ftlbs, and it likely wont be useful until I have a good traction control setup. The 6758 looks like it can do it, barely, 300 ftlb at 8k rides the choke line. The 6258, looks to be perfect for 250 ftlb, and at the 300ftlb level I'm at higher efficiencies in the 4-6k rpm range with the 62 wheel rather than the 67 wheel. And the 62 wheel could theoretically hit 300ftlb at 3k rpm, hopefully I'll never need to be going that slow. But transient response is the most important to me, I've auto-x evos/dsms with 16g or 20g turbos and I just couldnt figure out how to drive them, needing to floor it at corner entry so I had full power for corner exit. But driving the stroker miata with a baby turbo, there was no noticeable delay to throttle inputs, thats what I need, hence the reason to go with EFR in the first place. I made a quick model, the inertia difference between the 62 and 67 wheel is about 20-30%. Its around 100g*cm^2 difference, but comparing the inertia to any car sized turbo with an inconel turbine that inertia change is miniscule. So I dont think its going to be a big deal. But I'm still hung up on the choice. I guess the worst that could come out of the 6258 would be that 2 years down the road I buy the 6758, or something better if its come out when/if I want to try to make more power. If I buy the 67 first I'm not sure.
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01-05-2013, 11:42 AM
#40
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Yeah. I'm not sure if Nationals is in the card this year. We will see. I know I'm going to the Jersey Pro, the DC Pro and of course the evo shootout on my home turf. After that, we'll see. MAYBE the Dover tour. But for nationals I'm really just trying figure out vacation time and if I can figure out a way to get the car there. I only have 3 days of vacation time right now and I dont know when I accrue more yet.
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