To SSM Ahead of Schedule - Page 27 - Miata Turbo Forum -Boost cars, acquire cats.

Welcome to Miataturbo.net   Members
 


Build Threads Building a motor? Post the progress here.

Reply
 
 
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 01-19-2016, 12:09 AM   #521
SadFab Sales Lady
iTrader: (5)
 
aidandj's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Beaverton, USA
Posts: 14,786
Total Cats: 930
Default

And a chop up the trunk kit.
aidandj is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-19-2016, 12:27 AM   #522
Elite Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
Leafy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: woosta, ma
Posts: 8,597
Total Cats: 91
Default

There might be a place for the tank that doesnt require that, for the non-racecar types.
Leafy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-19-2016, 07:51 AM   #523
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Hollywood, FL
Posts: 397
Total Cats: 11
Default

Guys remember this has been done before. Turns101 on this site did the swap a few years back for a drift car. While the build thread din't have a lot of detail on the swap I do believe he had a custom wet sump pan made and he used the factory subframe *but* I do believe he relieved it quite a bit for oil pan clearance. Don't quote me on that, Look up the thread. Whatever mod he did it held up with the wet sump. Thing made like 600hp and 450tq at around 7k rpm so oiling system was critical for survival.
hector is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-19-2016, 09:05 AM   #524
Elite Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
Leafy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: woosta, ma
Posts: 8,597
Total Cats: 91
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by hector View Post
Guys remember this has been done before. Turns101 on this site did the swap a few years back for a drift car. While the build thread din't have a lot of detail on the swap I do believe he had a custom wet sump pan made and he used the factory subframe *but* I do believe he relieved it quite a bit for oil pan clearance. Don't quote me on that, Look up the thread. Whatever mod he did it held up with the wet sump. Thing made like 600hp and 450tq at around 7k rpm so oiling system was critical for survival.
I used that thread to know that it would fit. There's no way to keep the steering rack in the stock location, not cut 2 inches of of the fire wall, not have the engine stick 2 inches above the hood, and use a wet sump. My guess is that being a drifter he just moved the steering rack forwards which might actually help steering geometry on a car with extended steering arms.

There's also a road race car locally that has this engine swapped in but they sectioned the fire wall about 6 inches because they had the crank pulley behind the subframe.
Leafy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-19-2016, 05:35 PM   #525
Junior Member
iTrader: (2)
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: albion, mi
Posts: 263
Total Cats: 13
Default

I know you mentioned general dimensions. Any chance at getting a few more detailed dimensions? (L,W,H, crank center, mayhaps longblock weight, ect). I've found some not compelling results from the locost group, and would love you long time if you could grab some.

Full disclosure, this would be for a non-miata based project initially.
glade is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-19-2016, 08:22 PM   #526
Elite Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
Leafy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: woosta, ma
Posts: 8,597
Total Cats: 91
Default

This came today.



And some locust people asked for info on the ranger coolant neck.














Attached Thumbnails
To SSM Ahead of Schedule-80-wgxuwal_ebf76fdef8e2e3901c6e51218cfff1e3563f0da2.jpg   To SSM Ahead of Schedule-80-5f3uscp_5d696ab12f65aa9d0748d058b5694eaf061ac2f2.jpg   To SSM Ahead of Schedule-80-ui83vii_390ab4769a4dcc9bc4f36968f4cee13eb5b57ab9.jpg   To SSM Ahead of Schedule-80-h7xcpxu_6a1ef8dc2db6cfeda8e398a7fe4b437f9558d332.jpg   To SSM Ahead of Schedule-80-u9bz0g6_f20e5b3dbf0d5b7ca771d51bdbfe021a4fe7eabc.jpg  

To SSM Ahead of Schedule-80-cq8hkbv_324a9ca0a4751d4854849a931fc7cc709839f7a5.jpg  
Leafy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-24-2016, 09:10 PM   #527
Elite Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
Leafy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: woosta, ma
Posts: 8,597
Total Cats: 91
Default

Oil pan works better than expected. I think I only need to tweak one of the PS lines on the rack for clearance. Getting that stock oil pump off is a pita though, have to remove the timing chain. I'm also going to have to relocate the brake lines where the cross over on the firewall, too close to the cylinder head and stuff. That was the plan, moving the abs brick to the trunk anyways. Also going to have to go to an NB heater core so its easier to run AN fittings straight out of the firewall to run tight 90 bends to avoid the intake manifold.
Leafy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-25-2016, 08:53 AM   #528
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Hollywood, FL
Posts: 397
Total Cats: 11
Default

So what happens to the wet oil pump? Is there an idler and block off plate installed? Or a shorter chain?
hector is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-25-2016, 08:59 AM   #529
Elite Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
Leafy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: woosta, ma
Posts: 8,597
Total Cats: 91
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by hector View Post
So what happens to the wet oil pump? Is there an idler and block off plate installed? Or a shorter chain?
Just remove the pump and the pump's chain. The pump chain is annoyingly behind the timing chain. No block off needed since the pump passage just goes to the oil filter plate and it will get sealed there by the remote mount filter plate.
Leafy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-25-2016, 08:11 PM   #530
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Hollywood, FL
Posts: 397
Total Cats: 11
Default

Ok cool. What oil pump kit are you going with or are you rolling your own?
hector is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-25-2016, 10:16 PM   #531
Elite Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
Leafy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: woosta, ma
Posts: 8,597
Total Cats: 91
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by hector View Post
Ok cool. What oil pump kit are you going with or are you rolling your own?
Since pace race is the only ones with an exhaust side kit off the shelf, and they didnt get back to me. I'm going to be buying my own pump, most likely from nutter racing. My main issues are going to be figuring out exactly what sized pressure stage I want, and if I can get a pulley that doesnt require ordering from europe (and if said pulley works with the stock crank pulley or if I'll be forced to buy from europe). Using circle track parts or at least small block chevy parts whenever possible seems like a great way to save money while getting bomb proof ****.
Leafy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-26-2016, 03:20 PM   #532
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: NorthWest NJ
Posts: 748
Total Cats: 28
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Leafy View Post
Since pace race is the only ones with an exhaust side kit off the shelf, and they didnt get back to me. I'm going to be buying my own pump, most likely from nutter racing. My main issues are going to be figuring out exactly what sized pressure stage I want, and if I can get a pulley that doesnt require ordering from europe (and if said pulley works with the stock crank pulley or if I'll be forced to buy from europe). Using circle track parts or at least small block chevy parts whenever possible seems like a great way to save money while getting bomb proof ****.
Edit: forgot which thread I was reading, disregard the below. Woops!

The gates multi-rib belts are fairly standard. You can run a 4 rib belt (what is stock for the AC/PS on all miatas) on a pulley for more ribs just fine, as long as the 4-rib is enough for the job at hand, which it should be, since it can run the AC compressor, ps pump and a supercharger. Those together are ~15hp at max RPM and I doubt an oil pump uses anywhere near that.

In short, get a pulley that will work for a gates multy rib belt and you should be able to make it work just fine.
x_25 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-26-2016, 09:36 PM   #533
Elite Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
Leafy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: woosta, ma
Posts: 8,597
Total Cats: 91
Default

Dont think that I didnt seriously consider using a 4 rib belt. I know on the old blown cavalier it was putting about 40hp through a 4 rib belt. At most I can figure a dry sump pump should draw 15hp. But really I just dont want to chance slipping on my oil pump.
Leafy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-31-2016, 03:18 PM   #534
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: SanDiego
Posts: 53
Total Cats: 5
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Leafy View Post
2.5 liter, from a focus. Same block as the 2.3 but bored out and with a longer stoke and the best flowing mzr/duratec head. All the motors are basically the same, this one has the extra mounts on the timing cover to use it in a fwd car. But as I just found out its missing the holes for the Ranger pickup tube supports.

Speaking of which, it doesn't matter because the Ranger pan doesn't work. The bump to clear the oil pump and pickup tube falls directly into the power steering lines. Might work on a manual rack. Looks like I'm back to needing dry sump.
Just a FYI the Focus has never come with a 2.5 Duratec/MZR just the 2.0 and 2.3. Would have to come from a Mazda 3,5,6, or Ford Fusion.
ThunderKunt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-31-2016, 03:24 PM   #535
Elite Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
Leafy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: woosta, ma
Posts: 8,597
Total Cats: 91
Default

You're right.
Leafy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-31-2016, 03:51 PM   #536
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: SanDiego
Posts: 53
Total Cats: 5
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Leafy View Post
I dont think many of the euro guys mess with anything besides the 2.0. The builders up there seem to have settled onto the 2.3 as not having as much potential and they dont have many 2.5s over there. Of course there's a ton of engine builders with turn key 200hp+ N/A 2.0 solutions and a handful with 280hp+ pump gas turn key solutions. Right now the plan is to run the stock 2.5 minus balance shafts for a couple years until I decide what direction I want to go. Mondo sized turbo on a built 2.5, keep the 6758 and go to a 2.0 and different gearing, or shoot for one of those crazy over 300whp n/a builds and remove all the weight.
Its mostly just the availability. 2.0 can be found easily where the 2.3 and 2.5 are harder to find because the cars they came in get taxed more. 2.0 will also rev all day long which is what a lot of people like about them. Its kind of deceiving because the 2.0 feels like it pulls really hard from 4k to redline where the 2.3 and 2.5 fall off a bit but the torque difference is significant.

Either route you choose to go I think its a better choice than trying to use a BP. I would suggest looking into Mountune they have some nice intake manifolds for rwd applications. Race Engines
ThunderKunt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-31-2016, 06:01 PM   #537
Elite Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
Leafy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: woosta, ma
Posts: 8,597
Total Cats: 91
Default

I hadnt seen those guys before, interesting. I had pretty much resigned myself to either ITBs or making my own intake manifold if I found the NC manifold to be insufficient.

I ordered a T5 today, just a normal 90-93 high nickel gear version. If I blow it up I'll just rebuild it into an A5.
Leafy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-01-2016, 03:44 AM   #538
Elite Member
iTrader: (2)
 
Mobius's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 2,776
Total Cats: 205
Default

What is the advantage of removing the balance shafts?
Mobius is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-01-2016, 07:23 AM   #539
Elite Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
Leafy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: woosta, ma
Posts: 8,597
Total Cats: 91
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mobius View Post
What is the advantage of removing the balance shafts?
They weigh almost 20 pounds and spin at twice the crank rpm so it's like doing a light weight flywheel. And they like to explode slice 7k rpms because they're intentionally unbalanced shafts. They also don't physically fit in the miata engine bay.
Leafy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-29-2016, 08:29 PM   #540
Elite Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
Leafy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: woosta, ma
Posts: 8,597
Total Cats: 91
Default

Parts have come in. Bellhousing is in. That clears everything, but the damn thing is off center like 27 thou so I have to get some misalignment dowel pins, not a huge deal, it was expected but its bad enough that best I'm going to see is 6 thou total runout with off the shelf pins since they max out at 21 thou. Which is about a thou more than you really want but I'll deal I guess. Tranny comes in tomorrow so I'll start to be able to do more work again.








Attached Thumbnails
To SSM Ahead of Schedule-80-rz5wlwg_35e986993060127347c091512f930984ab3c7f4a.jpg   To SSM Ahead of Schedule-80-vt9646k_8d09823c36991d22711c534add84e4652f1295d7.jpg   To SSM Ahead of Schedule-80-gpxtkaw_ca4a42353532f63fd9918af49fd5c77f653bc245.jpg  
Leafy is offline   Reply With Quote
 
 
Reply

Related Topics
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
1994 Spec Miata Race Car SM/SM2/SSM For Sale Quinn Cars for sale/trade 6 10-23-2016 08:58 AM
MP62 maintenance Pist0n Supercharger Discussion 3 10-10-2015 05:23 PM
New M62 Miata owner Pist0n Meet and Greet 4 10-01-2015 09:18 PM
WTB HPDE miata - Texas Voltwings Cars for sale/trade 0 09-27-2015 07:40 PM
Noob from Orlando Marcdasharq Meet and Greet 2 09-11-2015 01:21 AM


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 04:22 PM.