Leafy

iTrader: (1)

That was easy. Now I get about 10 timing errors per hour and sync errors just barely flickers between 0 and 1. No audible miss fires.
Black = Ground
White = +12
Brown = Cam sensor
Orange = cam ecu
Purple = crank sensor
green = crank ecu










What a nest.


Now I just need to fix that damn coolant leak.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

**** **** fuckity ****
The ******* water pump still ******* leaks ******* ****. Now its leaking in between the inlet and the pump. The gasket is new, there is a gouge on the inlet so I tired the gasket with a tiny bit of rtv on that side and it still leaked. The inlet is flat enough that I cant fit my 0.003 feeler gauge under it on the glass table. The water pump is the one trackspeed installed.

I did fix the begi leak. It was my fault I didnt notice their gaskets were adhesive on both sides and I left the plastic on one side of both of them. New gaskets fixed that.

I fixed the oil leak, savington only put the nut for the oil cooler was hand tight. Bro must not lift. Torqued it to 30 ftlbs ish. Jeez I hope everything else in this engine is torqued.

Had to fight with my AEM tuner, it was doing percent change the aem pro way, which does not work. I found a sweet script that pushed the space bar every 1000ms so it lets you auto tune. I had to completely re-do the idle controls, it still needs a little work idling as it warms up but it idles mostly fine once its warm. Havent tuned the high rpm stuff yet. If the ******* water pump wont leak tomorrow I'll put the hood on, tune the rest of the cells, put on the aero, and get ready to go to jersey.

Savington

iTrader: (31)

Yeah, sorry about this. None of the three test cars we did before releasing the AEM setups (one '90 w/ VVT swap, one stock '99, one MSM w/ an AF 2871R) had this issue. We're going to make sure that circuit doesn't cause any issues on a test car that doesn't misfire, and then make it standard in every harness. I worked a bit with another one of our customers who has a VVT-swapped '94, and he isolated the +12v noise down to either the alternator or the IAC valve.

Sorry about the oil cooler nut as well - I remember buying a deep-socket specifically for that purpose so I could tighten it because I couldn't find mine after the move to the new shop. In any case, it shouldn't have been loose and I apologize.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

Not a big deal on the nut, I needed to change the oil anyways just took me a while to figure out what the heck was leaking. The circuit should just cause a bit of a delay in the signal. I had to hit the big timing increase button on the timing setup screen to get the timing back.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

I'm still fighting the idle hunt, its annoying. Lock the timing at 10 degrees, unplug the iac It idles solid as a rock. No sort of setting I can do seem to make it idle decent At best I can get it to sit at one idle for like a minute, dip and pules for a bit then go back the the previous idle and repeat. I just hate how the control is setup with only P and D and the weird table of I. Whats worse is that P and D don't behave as expected, oscillates about the same no matter what their values are. I'm sure I'll continue to **** with it all next weekend and maybe get it to work.

But I did fix the coolant leak at the water pump inlet. I just did RTV only, no gasket, and that seems to be holding.

And I put all the aero on, and drove it on the street. Got some priceless looks, including a group of teenagers that came out of the pizza joint, stopped in their tracks and just watched it drive by. Lolz.



Then I hit ~55 and it vibrated back and forth pretty violently. So.








And there's one on the other side as well, there is a backing plate on the inside of both and rubber roofing membrane between the aluminum and the body panels. Thing is ******* solid now.

I had a bear of a time aligning the hood for some reason. Its all like poped up and shitty looking on the passenger side. I dont remember it looking like that when I took it off. Weird.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

I have more pictures. My dad decided to wash it. My mom used a real camera, my mom is bad at pictures.











I'm being told my front supports need to be further apart.

Savington

iTrader: (31)

Send me the map and a log with the idle screen pulled up. A/C cars are a little tough sometimes, but it should be easy to get the car to idle without it.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

I've got no AC, car hasnt had AC in it for over a year. I think part of the issue is that the P value is backwards (IE I thought smaller was less P effect, like normal), I have some strange noise in all of my sensors, and I had the wrong iac frequency, by like 2 orders of magnitude. I'll get you a log thursday night if I don't figure it out quickly after actually reading the AEM manual.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

I am dreadful at pro launches. I pretty much need to launch as soon at the last yellow lights up. AND even though I pulled the front fenders until the metal started to crease, its not even enough for 275 on 15x9. So I'm going to run rs3s for saturday, cut the fenders saturday night and run then hoosiers for sunday.

TNTUBA

iTrader: (1)

Good luck man. Not sure if SSM made a class...but if you don't run the same brand of tire for the whole event you can't win contingency...it might be worth cutting the fenders tonight.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

I'm not going to beat Jake unless he breaks.

TNTUBA

iTrader: (1)

Which is possible, He could cone, DNF, Redlight. There are thousands of variables. Tell him Eric Anderson said "Hi"

TNTUBA

iTrader: (1)

GET OFF THE CONES DUDE!!!!!! And be a little more aggressive on the tree. Looks like you are about 12 seconds behind Jake. 4 of that is cones, and another second is time you are leaving at the lights. If you were just able to clean up your runs and cut better lights you would be in second place...and would win some Mazda money. Get on it and good luck this afternoon.

TNTUBA

iTrader: (1)

Don't give up. SSM is a brutal class. Not sure if you were having trouble with the car or not. looks like the top STS or E-Stock Miata would have been second in SSM.

2ndGearRubber

Builds motor, adds vvt, turbo, areo, suspension, hoosiers.... looses to 1.6L STS car on toyo's.




Those ES/STS cars are really surprisingly fast.

TNTUBA

iTrader: (1)

He's not Turbo'ed yet and I think he was on street tires. And I'm pretty sure this was the car's first Pro Solo ever.

2ndGearRubber

So it's a CSP car? Basically, I'm sure the aero is a no-go in CSP, but it's got CSP motor/suspension? More of a test run, I suppose? Sarcasm redacted Mr. Leafy.

How does such a high spring rate feel on street tires (if you are on them)?

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

Car didn't break and was on the trailer ready to leave within 20 minutes of being released from impound on sunday, I call that a success. This was the first time I'd ever done a pro. My two best times were my last two, and I red lit them. I red lit a 39.6 on the right and a 39.1 on the left. And I knew right after the launch that I red lit and drove what I thought was overly aggressive, the opposite of smooth, and quite pissed off. I guess I just needed to trust that the grip was there. I was on RS3s the whole weekend after some failed fender cutting saturday morning. And Sunday morning I was just going to pull the fenders off and run duct tape fenders and throw hoosiers on but it was brutally cold and I was tired and lazy.

The car as it sat with a better driver and maybe some shock and tire pressure tuning most likely would have made it into the 37s. I had no idea what the car would drive like, never launched from a christmas tree before, I hill started with the e brake a total of once before in my life. Solostorm was pegging me at 1.3g through the first turn after you filter out the spikes from vibration so the car makes some grip even with springs that are probably too stiff for street tires.

I also ran into some failures. Was going to install the skunk TB friday afternoon, got a box that said 99-05 on it, had the correct 99-05 TB and gasket set, came with the NA kit of parts. So that didnt go in, and its the 3rd time I've got a part from a supplier with an error on this build. Then between the morning and afternoon runs on saturday I was fixing the idle of the car a bit and all of a sudden it died, I couldnt get the laptop to connect to the ecu and the fuel pump wouldn't prime. It had done this a few times before at home, but if you just sat with the key off for a minute it would work again, no dice saturday. So I go to pull the ecu out and disconnect the plug from it and the main power wire just comes right out of the connector. Oh ****, someone sucked at crimping at trackspeed. No bother I'll just pop the pin out open it up a tad and re-crimp it. Then the pin breaks in half. Grid 7 cars start to warm up in paddock. I'm pouring over the aem pinout and the stock wiring harness because I know the ecu is wired for A/C manage to figure out that GPIO3 has something to do with AC, cut that and spade crimp connect it to power wire and stick it back in. Car starts, now I almost have no crank errors, and there is a little less noise in the sensor lines than I remember. I'm going to have to fix that later, and part of me wants to buy a bunch of extra pins for that connector and check every single crimp.

I'll have pictures and video later.

*Edit, I weighted in at 2166, 102 pounds over weight. Still thinking I'm going to need ballast once I tick off all the things I want to pull weight out of in a couple years.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

So, warning all videos will induce motion sickness because I need a better phone mount. I blame the poor driving on the car and the state of new jersey.







Here is the ecu harness carnage.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

Parts came back from swain yesterday.