stian

After working for years modifying my 1991 BRG with greddy-kit...

...to the point where there was hardly any greddy-kit left, I came across this black 1992 Miata. The car has been built up from scratch with lots of quality components and custom work. I decided to join the darkside, so now I have both a Miata and a MX5 :-)

The new Miata trackday toy:




Here's the current state of the vehicle:

Engine Block

• 1994 1.8 engine with 2mm overbore
• JE 8.2:1 pistons
• Total seal pistonrings
• Carillo rods
• ARP main studs
• Polished and balanced crank
• Mazdaspeed enginemounts

Head

• Ported and polished
• Stainless steel valves (+1mm intake, +2.5mm exhaust)
• Lightly modified 323 GTR cams (BP26)
• Custom Greddy inlet manifold (Nissan 200sx-based)
• 65mm Nissan Primera GT Throttle body
• HKS adjustable cam pulleys

Forced induction

• Turbonetics T04B/T3 hybrid. .48 A/R turbine with Stage 5 wheel
• HKS external wastegate
• Custom exhaust manifold
• Custom built 3.5' downpipe & exhaust
• Greddy intercooler (huge)
• Blitz BOV

Engine management/fuel/ignition

• Autronic SM2
• Apexi AVC-R boostcontroller
• Walbro GSS? fuelpump
• Nippon 770cc injectors
• Haltech coils & ignition amplifiers

Cooling

• PWR radiator
• Dual Spal fans

Suspension & brakes

• Tein Monoflex coilovers
• Tein Electronic Damping Force Controller
• Strut tower brace
• WP Pro 336mm 6 pot front brakes
• Cusco lower arm brace
• Jackson Racing sway bars

Drivetrain

• RX7 FD gearbox
• ACT Extreme clutch
• Mazdaspeed flywheel
• Mazdaspeed diff mounts
• Stronger and balanced driveshaft
• Torsen diff

Aero/wheels/etc.

• 17" Oz Crono wheels
• Bomex wing
• Racing Beat type 2 front
• PIAA lights
• Blitz oiltemp/boost/exhausttemp/fuelpressure gauges

The car was in it's glory days dynoed to 408rwhp/346lbft @ 25psi. Currently we're at 276rwhp/244lbft @ 16psi, but the plan is to get it back to a stable tune of 350-400whp. The car is currently being taken apart for an overhaul and I will write more in depth later about plans and ideas for next season, but here's what I've summarized so far.


Short term plans:

• Repair turbo & downpipe (missing a piece of turbinewheel - update to follow soon)
• Mount my Zeitronix ZT2 (from the MX5 donorcar)
• M-Tuned Coolant reroute
• Fix leaking BOV (replace)
• General overhaul and checkup

Future plans: (hopefully all done by next spring)

• New fuelsystem (rail/fpr/pump)
• Rollbar & 4-point harness
• Oilcooler with proper ducting
• New turbo (& manifold??) GTX2867R, GTX3071R? BW6258? GT3076R?
• Polybushes all around
• Billett oilpump
• Replace waterpump
• Tranny/diff overhaul
• Superlight 17' wheels with track-tires.
• Improved aero (splitter,spoiler,etc)

b6zecrooks

I want that intake manifoldddddddd

curly

iTrader: (25)

Reroute: win

17" wheels: fail

stian

I see your point, but with 336mm brake disks, that is unfortunately the smallest wheels I will be able to fit...

samulis

This is pure win from start to end.

stian

Here is one of the reasons I am looking for a new turbo:

The second one is that this old Turbonetics beast takes forever to build up boost (it hardly produces boost before 3500rpm), so I am looking for something a bit more responsive but with still room to go after top end power...

Currently I am debating these ones:

• GTX3071R with .63 turbine
• GTX2867R with .63 turbine
• BW EFR6258

Most likely I will end up with the 3071, partly because I see that my fellow norwegians HF & Inglar are doing so well with their 30-setup, and the fact that I can get a T3 house for it with a 5bolt outlet, similar to what I have now. So with a bit of luck it could be almost bolt on...

But I will ofcourse do some more research before I finally decide which one to go with... Attached a couple of overlayed comparisons between the different turbos.


Blue GTX3071, Yellow=GTX2867, Pink=EFR6258, Red=GT3076

curly

iTrader: (25)

I see. Do you already have them? If not, it's a waste, go with 15" wheels and TSE's 11.75" BBK. If you already have them it's understandable, and we'd like some pictures ASAP.

buffon01

iTrader: (9)

^Word. 17" well looks yucky on NA they also perform yucky. 15x10 6uls with good rubber and a 3071 can make things very interesting. Nice car though very clean

stian

Yes, they were already on the car when I bought it, and yes, they are probably overkill, even for 24h races! But I doubt it's worth replacing them with a smaller BBK to be able to fit the 15' 6ULS. The first trackday will give me the answers to that

Mulder

very nice car i build a miata for track day's too .

hustler

iTrader: (6)

The TSE kit features $30 rotor rings and $60 replacement pads, and they fit in 6ULs...I bet you'll balance or save money in the long run considering I'm looking at running 2 sets of pads over ~14 days at the track and I'm still on the first set of rotors. I'm saving at least $240 per season on brake parts over the Corrado kit it replaced. If you factor in say 2 sets of stock pads at $120 each, two sets of front rotors at $60 per pair then I've banked $360 this season, maybe more considering I have not cracked a rotor or done things like baked a set of pads in one day at ECR. I will probably break even on the TSE brakes in two seasons...then there's the lack of maintenence, superior braking, and superior pedal feel.

Doppelgänger

iTrader: (12)

While the huge brakes are cool as ****, trust me when I say you'd be better off with event the "base" Wilwood 11" kit...even happer with a TSE kit.

I was previously running the Brembo GT kit with 315mm rotors. Looked fantastic, worked great..but I honestly like the Willwood 11" kit I replaced it with and now I can get 15" wheels when the budget allows...and slicks for 15" wheels are WAY cheaper than slicks for 17" wheels.


Parking lot quickie by AnonymousNamelss, on Flickr

stian

I already have R888's on 15, and I certainly see the point of high running costs so I will for sure consider this...

How does the TSE brakes handle excessive track-use? No problems with overheating?

curly

iTrader: (25)

The 11" kit is picky about rotors, they're still only $30 for stock corrado rotors, but more than a few brands have been known to crack, and they're very heavy.

The two piece 11" rotor solves most of these issues, unfortunately the replacement rotor rings cost $80 a piece.
FM, Goodwin, 949, and other big miata companies sell 11" kits with varying options for varying prices. TSE was the cheapest, however they no longer sell the 11" kit.

The newer 11.75" kit is where it's at. $250 more than the 11" kit for the initial purchase of the rotor hats at $125 each, but the actual friction ring that you'll be replacing is only $30. Plus the hat fits the spindle properly so you won't need a centering ring like the corrado rotors. And apparently the extra .75" makes all the difference. I have the 11" kit and love it, so that says big things about the BBBK (biggest big brake kit).

Only downside to the 11.75" kit is that it pushes the limit of 15" wheels, only a few have been found to fit. I know my previous enkeis and current Konigs don't fit. 6uls require a small 5mm spacer (no extended studs required).

TSE is the only company selling this kit.

There is a "DIY" 11.75" kit that uses a Mini Cooper radial kit, and has more clearance, but is a little more work and no cheaper in the long run. This kit can be found any number of places online, you'll need to ask around and search to get the specific part numbers, and there's a rough write up floating around somewhere.

hf-mx5t

obviously this guy has also been visiting the garage where inglar and myself work on our mx5's not often 3 owners of 400ish whp mx5 get together in a small country like norway. im not sure if theres any more of us

cool to see your project here aswell Stian.. if you fix the issues we discussed, the car will be fast and fun again..

Savington

iTrader: (31)

Our brakes are MEANT for excessive track use. Add our duct kit and you will never have fade issues, ever. Our turbocharged shop car holds the Miata lap record at Buttonwillow 13CW using our 11.75" kit.

hf-mx5t

at my power levels i have never had brake issues either. heavy track use. your big brakes might be overkill, and for sure not properly matched with the rear brakes with the stock regulator etc as we discussed. The car is a great startingpoint and with some select mods, it will be very fast on a track.. oh.. ditch the crappy street tires, get som R coumpounds. at close to 400whp it is almost pointless driving with anything else.

falcon

iTrader: (13)

Sweet you're from Bergen. I almost went there a month ago so. Perhaps in the spring once it warms up a bit

Faeflora

iTrader: (2)

Nice. Details on intake manifold please?

Also, please go gt35! 500hp or bust!

Mobius

iTrader: (2)

Nice car. More about the intake please.