Superefficient cooling via geographic location
08-31-2015, 05:57 PM
#21
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Mine did the same, except in my case the nut broke loose, unthreaded partway and the eyelet was arcing to the stud slowly melting through it. I cought it about 1/2way through the stud and put a new locknut on; luckily the worn through area is above the nut and not a risk of failure but wow.
there are a few, I think there are ~6-7 on the streets that I know of
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09-22-2015, 12:49 PM
#22
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Got a small package today.
And I'll most likely be going to Florida 2-17. nov. So in case anyone knows of a hardtop for sale or wants to meet up then I'm all ears. Would be fun to meet some members on here and see what they've done to their cars.
And I'll most likely be going to Florida 2-17. nov. So in case anyone knows of a hardtop for sale or wants to meet up then I'm all ears. Would be fun to meet some members on here and see what they've done to their cars.
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12-31-2015, 08:16 AM
#23
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stuff is happening.
I changed the timing belt along with all fluids, deleted the evap canister and started some engine bay cleaning. While I was doing that a friend of mine was working on the rust.
The rust problem starts at that seam about half way up the wheel arch. A drop of sealant in production would've saved us a lot of trouble.
But boy was I happy that the problem hadn't dug any deeper.The insides are CLEAN!
Here we've gotten above the problem and now we'll bring the car to a guy that'll blast it with soda and get rid of all the rust.
Once we're done with this I'll be happy with my car appearance wise and can dive headfirst into the turbo part. I just wanted to stop the rust before it became a bigger problem
I changed the timing belt along with all fluids, deleted the evap canister and started some engine bay cleaning. While I was doing that a friend of mine was working on the rust.
The rust problem starts at that seam about half way up the wheel arch. A drop of sealant in production would've saved us a lot of trouble.
But boy was I happy that the problem hadn't dug any deeper.The insides are CLEAN!
Here we've gotten above the problem and now we'll bring the car to a guy that'll blast it with soda and get rid of all the rust.
Once we're done with this I'll be happy with my car appearance wise and can dive headfirst into the turbo part. I just wanted to stop the rust before it became a bigger problem
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01-09-2016, 03:41 PM
#24
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Found a couple of guys with a mobile sandblaster. We just showed up where they were working, paid them 70bucks and the took care of both sides.
Success!!
Success!!
Last edited by G3ML1NGZ; 01-09-2016 at 07:18 PM.
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01-21-2016, 07:20 PM
#25
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Updates!
Got the cappuccino washer bottle from japan
Got my wideband yesterday and test fitted it in the middle dash vent since I never use those.
The vent cup fit well around the gauge but the trim ring didn't fit around the gauge. So I brought it all to work and used my lunch break to fiddle with it.
Test fit, unsightly gap around the gauge
I cut the back off the cup so the studs of the gauge could protrude from the back of the cup.
Cut and straightened the U-shaped bracket so it would hold the gauge to the cup without protruding from the sides
Then I got our machinist to make the interior diameter of the trim ring match the gauge face
Awww yes, snug fit and held by friction
*sliiiiide..CLICK* god that sound was satisfying
Awww yess, you're tight in there aren't you?
And then I started stripping the engine bay and cleaning up what I could, cutting brackets and removing what I didn't want to keep
And we'll most likely finish this rust nonesense over the weekend
Got the cappuccino washer bottle from japan
Got my wideband yesterday and test fitted it in the middle dash vent since I never use those.
The vent cup fit well around the gauge but the trim ring didn't fit around the gauge. So I brought it all to work and used my lunch break to fiddle with it.
Test fit, unsightly gap around the gauge
I cut the back off the cup so the studs of the gauge could protrude from the back of the cup.
Cut and straightened the U-shaped bracket so it would hold the gauge to the cup without protruding from the sides
Then I got our machinist to make the interior diameter of the trim ring match the gauge face
Awww yes, snug fit and held by friction
*sliiiiide..CLICK* god that sound was satisfying
Awww yess, you're tight in there aren't you?
And then I started stripping the engine bay and cleaning up what I could, cutting brackets and removing what I didn't want to keep
And we'll most likely finish this rust nonesense over the weekend
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04-19-2016, 09:40 PM
#29
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The bolts for the stock license plate bracket broke. I got bored during a night shift and threw this together.
Scrap aluminum plate, surface treated with alodyne for corrosion protection, titanium fasteners because why the hell not. Will paint it black tomorrow
Now I just need to order a stubby plate to throw on there.
Scrap aluminum plate, surface treated with alodyne for corrosion protection, titanium fasteners because why the hell not. Will paint it black tomorrow
Now I just need to order a stubby plate to throw on there.
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04-21-2016, 01:05 PM
#30
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well, I got the dreaded E8 on the MTX-l which means that my wideband sensor is toast. I guess I'll move it further downstream then.
guess the front o2 sensor bung is just too close to the engine for a wideband
guess the front o2 sensor bung is just too close to the engine for a wideband
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04-22-2016, 04:18 PM
#36
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now whatever I do I just get e2. heatsink fits perfect, but the gauge just sweeps through the led's and then throws an e2 code. I'll get another sensor after the weekend
At least I know that the heatsink fits like I hoped
At least I know that the heatsink fits like I hoped
Last edited by G3ML1NGZ; 04-22-2016 at 05:29 PM.
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04-24-2016, 07:25 PM
#37
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well, I'm planning my shopping list before I go to the US to buy the bulk of the turbo stuff.
I have the 99 pistons at 9.5compression. I plan on buying rods but from what I can gather the stock 99 pistons are quite beefy. My question is if I should keep the stock Compression ratio and just upgrade rods.
I have the 99 pistons at 9.5compression. I plan on buying rods but from what I can gather the stock 99 pistons are quite beefy. My question is if I should keep the stock Compression ratio and just upgrade rods.
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04-25-2016, 01:26 PM
#38
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It is possible to make more power by using a lower compression piston unless you are using e85 or race gas because you can run more advanced ignition timing without detonation.
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