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Old 10-27-2016, 05:13 PM
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67 or 62?
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Old 10-27-2016, 05:18 PM
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Originally Posted by psyber_0ptix
If anyone needs to borrow a housing for modification, I have an extra.
Borrow implies return, do you mean sell? 6258 or 6758?

It's probably not something I'm going to screw with until at LEAST March of next year, but I have been on the lookout for another cover to mess with.
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Old 10-27-2016, 05:18 PM
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Originally Posted by aidandj
67 or 62?
Backoff! I asked first! I need to take up space in my garage and never get used for anything!
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Old 10-27-2016, 05:21 PM
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Originally Posted by EO2K
Backoff! I asked first! I need to take up space in my garage and never get used for anything!
Look at the timestamps bro.

Also, you need 62 i need 67. So it will work out.

My housing has a bigass elbow welded on it. Did not want to deal with that if i didnt have to.

Also want to play with modifying.
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Old 10-27-2016, 05:41 PM
  #805  
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Neogenesis inherited my 6258 cover. I have an extra 6758 cover. Technically two since I can't use the side outlet for my intercooler setup (which is why I went forward facing 90°)

It was more shallow than welding an elbow to the outlet.

I may keep one of the covers simply if I need to sell the supercore.
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Old 10-27-2016, 05:44 PM
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will take 6758 if up for grabs. Mine has a giant elbow on it that is a pain in the ***.
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Old 10-27-2016, 06:01 PM
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Originally Posted by aidandj
will take 6758 if up for grabs. Mine has a giant elbow on it that is a pain in the ***.
Will message you
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Old 10-27-2016, 06:11 PM
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Buy cheap aluminum bends; cut as needed; mockup.
Tape the crap out of your mockup and bring the whole thing, compressor housing and all to the dude who welded your intercooler stuff up.
You could even ship it to me and I'll sell it on ebay, or I mean weld it for you and ship it back.
Obviously not the same thing, but I did more or less the same thing:
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Old 10-27-2016, 06:18 PM
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Originally Posted by leboeuf
Buy cheap aluminum bends; cut as needed; mockup.
Tape the crap out of your mockup and bring the whole thing, compressor housing and all to the dude who welded your intercooler stuff up.
You could even ship it to me and I'll sell it on ebay, or I mean weld it for you and ship it back.
Obviously not the same thing, but I did more or less the same thing:
My turbo sits more forward than yours but definitely along the lines if what needs to be done. Your turbo has a flange up front ?
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Old 10-27-2016, 06:52 PM
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Its a weirdo journal bearing gt2860 with sr20 style housings... I stumbled into it, and its actually worked out pretty well.
Earlier I meant that the OD would be 1/2" smaller not 1" hehe
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Old 11-04-2016, 01:13 PM
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What the hell?


An entire stud is missing. Is there a nut behind there? Do I pass a bolt from under?
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Old 11-04-2016, 02:31 PM
  #812  
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no nut, no bolt. make sure threads are not chewed up and replace with the proper (specific to this) stud. Many also put a drop of locktite on it
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Old 11-04-2016, 02:46 PM
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Ordered two new Frankenstein bolts, as well as a new large hard top seal, plus striker plate, plus mount pad.
Time to rebuild this hard top while its off. Luckily it's topless weather for the next week.

I'm just sad my hard top will be flopping around back there on the drive home, it didn't look like there where ANY threads in that hole, maybe just shadow play)
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Old 11-04-2016, 05:56 PM
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Originally Posted by psyber_0ptix
Ordered two new Frankenstein bolts, as well as a new large hard top seal, plus striker plate, plus mount pad.
Time to rebuild this hard top while its off. Luckily it's topless weather for the next week.

I'm just sad my hard top will be flopping around back there on the drive home, it didn't look like there where ANY threads in that hole, maybe just shadow play)
I would grab a set of hardware for the latches while you're at it. The bolts they use are pretty strange in the way that they fit into the latch. I hit 3 Ace Hardware's without luck before finally just buying a fresh set from Mazda.
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Old 11-05-2016, 12:40 PM
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Thanks for the heads up. I ordered the new bolts for the striker bit but come to find out, I have another problem . One of the welded nuts is missing. Could have been because the rubber pad on the bottom of the rear catch was degraded/missing so perhaps vibration and just moisture doing its number on the shallow welds
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Old 11-06-2016, 12:47 AM
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I'd have nightmares living in rust states
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Old 11-06-2016, 03:13 AM
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Originally Posted by 18psi
I'd have nightmares living in rust states
Agreed. I've never seen anything like that anywhere on my car. Seems like such a pain owning old cars in rust states. I'd probably end up just leasing cars lol.
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Old 11-07-2016, 06:29 AM
  #818  
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The oring seemed tired on this bolt and it had been removed once before. I'm just wondering if it loosened enough for water to creep through and settle on that nut. When I get the new hardware, I'll spray primer down there and throw some grease on the frankenflange before tightening down. I wish POR 15 sold a spray.


Using an m8x1.25 bolt, I secured the old Frankenstein bolt and all of the sudden all my hardtop squeak and rattles went away. I thought it was the OG seals deteriorating. Huzzah.


...even though I bought new seals
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Old 11-07-2016, 08:05 AM
  #819  
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Its not as good as por15 "por15", but its what i use for these sort of things.

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Old 11-07-2016, 08:11 AM
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hells yea!
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