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Old 12-20-2013, 04:07 PM   #21
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Minor problem :wink:

What's you plan of attack?
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Old 12-20-2013, 11:14 PM   #22
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Probably shorten by a centimeter amd **** it 45 degrees, I kust have to throw on the a/c compressor to check it doesn't interfere with anything else.

The turbo has been clocked amd I'm figuring out plumbing to the turbo. Pressure sensor will hang from a sandwich plate while the oil port on the side of the block will be a dedicated feed to turbo.

Bspt to npt adapters (and vice versa) have been ordered to facilitate the fittings amd AN lines.

Just gotta place the oil return, drill and find a welder to weld a bung on

Pictures up soon.
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Old 12-22-2013, 01:47 AM   #23
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Why not flip the mixing mani? with that header I'd wanna keep the water as far away as possible.
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Old 12-22-2013, 03:42 AM   #24
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I was thinking about that, but wasn't sure what to do with the return for the heater core.

I just read recently that for those who don't use the heater core one could tap and just plug that hole, but maybe I could get a 180 AN/hose fitting and hook it up somehow
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Old 12-22-2013, 10:12 AM   #25
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I feel like I've posted this a million times, but I clamp a 90* on to the heater core, run it underneath the brake booster, zip tie it to the edge of my master cylinder brace, and down into a "T" in the lower radiator hose. It's a long line, but a single piece that stays away from anything hot, it's never gotten in the way, and has never caused me any issues.

I also like the simplicity of the lower radiator line, just a 90* and a coupler after the T.

Pictures say a 1000 words, but I can't seem to find any.
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Old 01-09-2014, 03:34 AM   #26
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Thinking about suggestions made by 18psi and Curly.....

.....can I just use the heater core as the source for coolant to run through the turbo?

I can run a braided hose from the heater core to the turbo and use hose fittings to adapt it to AN6 to attach to the banjo bolts I already have. Then from the turbo I can do as Curly said, and just T into the coolant inlet hose?
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Old 01-14-2014, 05:32 PM   #27
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I may end up having to sell everything because my school decided to not pay me since I finished my graduate course-load a semester early.

Testing Waters (RI): My entire build
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Old 01-14-2014, 05:38 PM   #28
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Dude.....Don't sell.

There's gotta be a way to get out of the situation without selling this awesome setup
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Old 01-14-2014, 11:44 PM   #29
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I'm seeing how long I can hold out. I NEED to procure a job for graduation before my student loan payments kick in. The income I was expecting this semester would have been my cushion savings until I got a job, but if I take a gamble and it takes longer to find employment, I have to liquidate locked assets.

I am almost tempted to just bite the bullet and finish it. Tune it, enjoy the fruits of labor before selling the whole thing at a loss. It's easier to sell everything at once than to part things out and sit on odds and ends for a year.
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Old 03-17-2014, 04:12 PM   #30
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So, slowly but surely I'm trying to continue with this build.


New:
-Installed a Walbro 190HP fuel pump, swapped for an aluminum radiator with the Flyin' Miata Stage 2 Airflow kit and wired the fans with a relay to run parallel.

-Installed AWR sway brackets, hopefully gaining clearance between the sway bar and A/C compressor on the BP4W

-Mounted/balanced Direzza ZII's on summer wheels


My under tray was trashed and broken in several spots, there was no way for me to mount it back up. I ordered a new one, but driving around, i notice the temps are a bit higher than normal. The fans are running constantly, resulting in a drained battery. I hope the cooling is rectified by the under tray such that the fans don't have to work so hard to cool the radiator, thus saving my puny NA6 alternator until I swap motors. It reads under 11 volts sitting; after a jump start, voltage spikes up to 14.3 volts, but fluctuates between 11.88 and 12.00volts while the fans are running. My gauges, radio and MTX-L go fritz.


I'm waiting for my oil pan to come back with a oil return bung welded to it then I need to find a place to do the actual swap.

Anyone in New England willing to loan me a driveway or garage for a couple days? In and out swap. Motor+6spd all in one go with just a couple merged wires.


I'm tired of snow tires
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Last edited by psyber_0ptix; 03-17-2014 at 04:27 PM.
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Old 03-17-2014, 04:14 PM   #31
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Welcome back Psyber! Looking forward to more updates!
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Old 03-17-2014, 04:28 PM   #32
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Glad to see you are keeping it. I'd like to see this thing making >300whp personally.
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Old 03-17-2014, 04:30 PM   #33
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I can finish the motor for sure, it's practically done. I just need a space to swap it. My current location has no driveway or garage :(
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Old 03-29-2014, 03:33 PM   #34
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The motor is done!

I just have to get a return hose for the turbo, find a pigtail for the cam position sensor, and transfer a sensor from the 1.6L motor during the swap.

Anyone in New England willing to loan out their garage or driveway so I can plop this in?



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Old 03-29-2014, 11:11 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by psyber_0ptix View Post
The motor is done!

I just have to get a return hose for the turbo, find a pigtail for the cam position sensor, and transfer a sensor from the 1.6L motor during the s]
I can cut the connector off my 90-93 harness and ship it if you show me a picture of what you need. Also I believe I have the sensor on the old 1.6 sitting in my garage. Just pay shipping.

Not sure what they look like but just an option for yah.
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Old 03-31-2014, 11:08 AM   #36
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I appreciate the offer!

I need the CMP pigtail since the bp4w uses a sensor by the cam gear. I think I'm going to have to start this off running batch fuel/spark until I can get the plug and then wire fore sequential at a later date.

It will be easier in the interim to get the motor broken in and running since I can just manually enter settings for the 36-1 wheel. According to Brain, I'll have to take a composite log so a code can be developed to support the 36-1 with stock cam gear to utilize sequential.
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Old 04-01-2014, 06:34 PM   #37
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If anyone that follows this thread is knowledgable with wiring between miata's, can you please check out this thread:
Pre-swap wiring questions - BP4W into 92 NA6


I'm hoping to have this all markered before I try to swap this weekend.


I need to ensure that they are connected correctly.

____________________________________

For the Crank/Cam signal
Stock 1.6L CAS:
black w/ light green stripe = Ground
white w/ red stripe = +12V
white = crank signal
yellow w/ blue stripe = cam signal

on the BP4W Crank Sensor:
White w/red stripe = +12v
Black w/blue stripe = ground
Grey w/ Red = Crank signal

on BP4W Cam Sensor:
White w/red stripe = +12v
Black w/blue stripe = ground
Grey w/ Blue = Cam signal

essentially, I can split the power and ground from the stock CAS and wire it into the respective white/red and black wires on the BP4W sensors, then just hook up
[NA6:white to BP4W:grey/red] and
[NA6: yellow/blue to BP4W: grey/blue]


____________________________________

For IACV
just connect the wires as polarity doesn't matter?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe Perez View Post
On the stock '99 harness, the orange wire is positive and the violet / red wire is negative, from the point of view of the IAC valve.

Also, I agree that the valve should be insensitive to polarity, as it's just a simple solenoid.
source: http://forum.miata.net/vb/newreply.p...eply&p=5233397
____________________________________

TPS
NA6 Red = 5v reference
NA6 light green/white = TPS signal
NA6 black/green = Ground

BP4W Light Grn/Red = 5v reference
BP4W Green/Black = TPS signal
BP4W Black/Red = Ground


Quote:
Originally Posted by Braineack View Post
Try this:

Code:
TPS              Function        Harness
GRN/BLK        TPS SIG        GRN/WHT
BLK/RED        GROUND         BLK/GRN
GRN/RED          5vref             RED
I had you reverse the sig and ground.
source: How to wire an analog TPS to MS in a '90-'93 car.
____________________________________


Electronic boost control solenoid

Is there a switched 12v source I could use for the EBC? I am pretty sure I can hijack one of the wires back to the ecu and relocate it to be used for Megasquirts Boost Control function.


I think that's it for the wiring. As I recall the fan switch that was at the front of the block is now obsolete since megasquirt controls the output.


ANY insight or correction to the above would be greatly appreciated

Last edited by psyber_0ptix; 04-02-2014 at 10:59 AM.
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Old 04-03-2014, 06:26 PM   #38
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Motor looks great. I can't wait until I have a complete long block on a stand like that!
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Old 04-03-2014, 07:36 PM   #39
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Yea but the wiring is a nightmare. My pigtails don't match any factory colors and no one seems to have pictures of their configuration readily available
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Old 04-03-2014, 09:53 PM   #40
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Awesome photos. This is going to be absolutely epic.

Any progress on the job front so you can keep the car?
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