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Aidan, I called begi awhile back to talk about wastegate porting and stephanie mentioned putting a cat and or maf back in. Intake + exhaust restriction ftw!!!
OP, glad that porting worked out for you. I solved my 2560 creep with a v band housing and a FAB 9 ewg mani
Last edited by LownSlow616; 12-04-2016 at 09:45 PM.
Aidan, I called begi awhile back to talk about wastegate porting and stephanie mentioned putting a cat and or maf back in. Intake + exhaust restriction ftw!!! 😂
OP, glad that porting worked out for you. I solved my 2560 creep with a v band housing and a FAB 9 ewg mani
Who else but Stephanie and BEGi hahahaha. Everytime I hear the name "BEGi"... the reputation proceeds them.
So I need to do some more searching, but can anyone think off the top of their head, who on here is running a GT2560R on a 1.8 that has shared both spark table and dyno plot?
I'd like to figure out what advance I can run at given boost levels so I know roughly where I can push the car too before I shove the new block in and take it to a mapper. I was sort of imagining running 12 psi but I'm a little unsure how conservative my current table is.
So I need to do some more searching, but can anyone think off the top of their head, who on here is running a GT2560R on a 1.8 that has shared both spark table and dyno plot?
I'd like to figure out what advance I can run at given boost levels so I know roughly where I can push the car too before I shove the new block in and take it to a mapper. I was sort of imagining running 12 psi but I'm a little unsure how conservative my current table is.
Here is my dyno plot and spark table. Spark map is from FM and is untouched. Made 260 at ~13psi. But my hot side components probably flow a little better than yours. I asked Jeremy where I should increase timing if I were to do so and his answer was something along the lines of, "Start by adding 2 degrees in every cell from 8psi on up. Then interpolate the 8psi row down to the 100kpa row."
Here is my dyno plot and spark table. Spark map is from FM and is untouched. Made 260 at ~13psi. But my hot side components probably flow a little better than yours. I asked Jeremy where I should increase timing if I were to do so and his answer was something along the lines of, "Start by adding 2 degrees in every cell from 8psi on up. Then interpolate the 8psi row down to the 100kpa row."
That's great cheers. At least that gives me a reasonable base to start from. I was way way behind after 4500 rpm pretty much everywhere.
Nice work. I really like the gauge plate set up you've got going on.
Cheers!
I need to get another video really, messed around with the spark table last night. Went out and did some tuning and the thing is absolutely flying now. I have to remain fairly sensible because it's winter here, everything is wet and very cold so traction loss in 2nd & 3rd gear seems to keep happening.
I really do need to crack on and build the other engine though, I feel like I want to squeeze everything I can out of the turbo.
Also, when I'm giving it some, I tend to see water temps of up to 95C and oil at 100C. What do you guys think to these? I know there's room for improvement in regards to oil cooler position and radiator ducting but for now until the weather gets a bit bloody nicer I'd like to think these are acceptable.
With ambient temps as they are now they seem a tad high, you're definitely going to run into some temp issues when it come to the 17 degrees north-western summer.
I've got an Rs Aizawa front bumper to fit, and once that's on I'll be moving the oil cooler to behind one of the fog light locations, that'll certainly sort that problem. As for the rad it needs ducting, simple as. I just need to find some inspiration on how to do it, and what materials are best suited. Thankfully the bottom of the FM intercooler has mounting locations so I'm thinking of fixing a sheet between the underside of the front bumper and the intercooler which should overlap at the back to seal up to the rad, then add a slam panel cover. The hardest part is figuring out how to do the sides??
OK, update time... not a lot has happened over the last couple of months.
Grabbed myself a carbon ducktail spoiler and bootlid which I really like.
Then, I decided that it was time I bought myself a nice daily driver so that I can actually get this off the road and rebuild the thing, so I bought this:
2014 Audi A6 Black Edition Multitronic
2.0 TDI Auto
Never thought I'd get excited about an automatic diesel but this thing is lovely to drive, and I don't think it looks to bad either!
So now I've taken the Mx5 off the road I've started planning the rebuild, hopefully in time for summer.
Current plans are:
Engine rebuild - I have a VVT motor sat in the garage, so I'm intending to rebuild that and put some forged rods in with stock pistons (maybe the lower comp ones from my early 1.8?). I haven't decided whether to upgrade to Ms3 and use the VVT head or stick with my Ms2 and run a non-vvt head. Ms3 is looking to be quite expensive.
Bodywork - The whole thing needs respraying, I'm intending to have a go at this myself, I've bought a large ABAC compressor which should be up to the job it's just whether I can create a spray booth in my garage. I'm also going to underseal it whilst the engine is out.
Brakes - Got myself a set of Wilwood dynalite calipers with wilwood discs and a 1" master cylinder that I will be collecting later this week.
Aside from this, that's pretty much it. I'd like to get it on track and to as many shows as possible then. And keep it off the salty winter roads!
So I'll be reading up a lot on people on here who have used forged rods with stock pistons and whether or not to suck up the expense for VVT control.
-Lew
Last edited by LTurner1; 02-13-2017 at 04:44 AM.
Reason: Crazy image sizes
Got them second hand although some of the parts are basically unused. Planning on getting a bias/proportioning valve to help balance things out and also a kit to space out the rear calipers and run bigger discs.
Some more parts have arrived towards the rebuild...
Got myself a Gtx cam cover which I had powder coated black, some IL motorsport adjustable pulleys, and Eagle forged rods. Initially I was just looking to do a rod-only build and keep things sensible, but now I'm planning on just doing a full build and getting it right first time round. So I've been selling off a whole load of accumulated car parts and I've raised a good chunk of cash towards the next set of parts. The only thing I need to do now is get in touch with some engine builders to get some quotes and figure out what spec bearings and pistons I need to order.
I think the rough part list I have is:
Eagle Rods
Wiseco Pistons (8.5 CR)
ARP Head & Main studs
ACL Bearings
Boundary Engineering Oil Pump
ATI Harmonic Dampener / SuperMiata Dampener
Still got quite a few parts to collect, but I know at least one guy who has a box with the oil pump, studs, bearings and a gates timing belt for a good price, the main thing is figuring out how to get hold of the pistons and dampener cheaper... They're probably the two most expensive parts of the list and with import duty/tax importing them to the UK I'll be royally shafted. If anyone has any ideas then please PM me!
To go with this build I definitely want to sort my exhaust, the one I have currently muffles literally all sound and doesn't really make for any enjoyment whatsoever. It was pretty good N/A and loud supercharged but you could probably hear a pin drop next to my car at the moment when it's idling. There's a place that did a mid section for me a couple of miles away so I'm going to see what prices they can give me for either 2.5 or 3 inch cat-back system. Probably not going to have a great deal of silencing in it because the cars no longer a daily and if my neighbors get upset about me using the car once every couple of weekends then they can screw themselves!
I've also got a mate who part owns a body repair place, and seems to think he'd be able to get my car done for a good price so I've also got that to look forward to.
So aside from the engine itself, the other outstanding jobs are:
* Respray car and engine bay
* Fit Wilwood brakes & master cylinder (maybe a bias valve too)
* Underseal the car including wheel wells and behind front quarters and front bumper
* Duct radiator & relocate oil cooler somewhere better
* Figure out what COPs setup to go for - guessing I'm gonna need them if I'm squeezing as much boost as possible from the GT25650R I have(?)
I'm pretty sure I have a shimmed BE VVT pump and the superdamper with 4-tooth trigger laying about somewhere. They might be with my engine builder in Holland still but I'm not sure. Same goes for the ACL bearings and main/head studs.
I'm pretty sure I have a shimmed BE VVT pump and the superdamper with 4-tooth trigger laying about somewhere. They might be with my engine builder in Holland still but I'm not sure. Same goes for the ACL bearings and main/head studs.
Certainly interested.
As I've been desperate to change my exhaust I've been contacting local exhaust builders but I wasn't too keen on the prices they were charging for the most basic setup, and then this came up for sale:
It's the 2.5 inch Flyin Miata turbo exhaust which I figured would be a nice match to my Flyin Miata kit... so I collected that last night and will be fitting over the coming days. The cat itself has been cleared so it's free flowing as it was proving quite a restriction for the previous owner, this is fine for me as I would have been running a decat anyway. Hoping it free's up the exhaust a lot over my current exhaust and also adds a bit of noise too.
12-04-2016, 09:30 PM
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