TorqueZombie

iTrader: (6)

It seems I can't have anything nice. Took the block apart and it seems that is has had a diet of metal shavings. Bought it as a running engine quite a while ago and now find these gems. Are Miata engines made with extra metal? Is there something I'm missing at oil changes like adding metal to it? Maybe there is some secret knowledge that involves feeding an engine bits of other engines souls to gain power and after an engine has eaten 99 engine souls it hunts down a drag queen and slays it?

Metal on the oil pick up



Oil pump





Rod bearings #1 is left #4 is right




Rod cap #2



Rod cap #3



Crank journals in order from #1 to #4

TorqueZombie

iTrader: (6)

Hopefully the crank is okay. Doesn't feel perfect smooth to the finger nail. Pics look much worse than they feel. The whole take it apart, clean it, slap it back together idea is toast. Looks like it'll be a rods only rebuild with some new pistons and a factory overbore. Really disappointed. I'm beginning to believe the wife that this build is cursed.

Efini~FC3S

iTrader: (4)

Looks like the crankshaft could be cleaned up with a polish...but I'm certainly no expert.

TorqueZombie

iTrader: (6)

Does whiskey bring about bad ideas of taking the engine out of mine daily and seeing what it looks like inside. Had a broken rad in it when bought. I've pegged the temp gauge a few times, knock so bad once it sounded like movie theatre pop corn up hill, ran out of oil bad enough to make the oil gauge drop to 0, and was very abused before I had it. Got it on the cheap overseas and other than chowing down on a diet of oil, fuel, and self respect it has survived. I would bet money it doesn't have metal fed through it at least. Unless it was its own.

Side note: Slow and Low is good bang for buck drink

Monk

iTrader: (3)

Drink a little whiskey, disassemble an engine, clean some guns; what could possibly go wrong?
It might be a trick of the light, but some of those journals look like they have some divots. Hopefully, I'm wrong and you can just polish it up.
Those bearings look all kinda fucked up.

Monk

iTrader: (3)

Hey man, you doing alright? Any word on the condition of your crank? (Phrasing totally intentional)

TorqueZombie

iTrader: (6)

Yeah dude, doing okay. Somehow missed that you asked. I lost motivation a bit, and my school semester was racking my brain. Somehow pulled a B out of CalcII and though I was close to failing. School comes first, project second. Sadly I lost focus a bit and my motivation went down. Got really frustrated at the things I can't control. 2 engines I have are full of metal bits, engine builders taking forever, getting screwed over repeatedly, parts coming in not as expected, funds change, etc, etc.... Just got depressed and unmotivated which makes the project go stagnant and starts a self defeating cycle. I have a problem with wanting things done right, and I've never done most of this before. However, my dad retired this year and moved nearby, so I have someone to give me a hand with some stuff and keep me motivated. Now once more unto the breach...

Wife got me mirrors for Xmas


and I buffed them


Also buffed the MSM lights I got awhile ago (I'm getting good)



I made a mock up motor with that block that was full of metal chunks and a spare VVT head. This should help facilitate getting wiring done, and figure out what hoses I need. A 2x4 and a strap to get the block in, ^$#@ using a hoist.




Since every engine I get seems to be full of metal I decided to bite the bullet and pull the engine out of my daily and rebuild its block. It has been smoking and burning oil worse and worse every year. No idea how long it would last. The compression on it is stellar, but I was thinking the valve seals were toast. Just kept thinking this project would get done, so I ignored the daily.

I found a good way to keep the engine from puking coolant everywhere during the pull. Shop vac on suck, open water neck, and open drain **** on radiator. Sucks from water neck to radiator, but not enough flow/power through radiator to get to shop vac. Turn off the vac and the coolant falls out the drain ****. Obviously this is after a normal radiator drain, but repeat until no coolant come from the block. What came out of the engine once it was out and on a stand might have been a tea cup worth.


Up and out


The bores looked pretty good. No real signs of abnormal wear. Pictures came out terrible. The lights in my dad's garage are poor at best. So sorry about that. However, during the flipping over the motor on a stand there was an odd rattle, then a sink in my heart, then bets were taken for what was loose in the engine. Did I drop a nut down there during a timing job? Is this engine full of metal too? Did the engine midget die? Is this where my unicorn horn went? Nope. This



Yay! I've been using this car almost daily for 5yrs, and this has been rattling in there who knows how long. The damage on the crank is very noticeable. Serious grove where the bearing use to be. I'll try to get a better pic.


Bearings.

TorqueZombie

iTrader: (6)

So the plan now is to used the dailies block and the metal flake motors crank to make a rebuilt block. I am still having a built engine made....someday...I was told soon. So I plan on a factory rebuild using 10-1 VVT pistons, new rebuild bearings and etc, VVT head w/ valvejob, low boost, and learn to tune on an engine that runs, but doesn't cost much. I figure FM runs factory engines with boost to about 250hp, so keep it under the 12psi they run. The engine will be put back into the daily once it serves its purpose in the turbo one. That's why I'm thinking 10-1 because that car will be NA for AutoX, daily status, or resale. As for tuning I'll start with factory wastegate and move up from there. Just so tired of not having a running car. Now my daily is dead, and borrowing my folks Jeep again. Driving it with the locker is motivation enough to want my car running.

TorqueZombie

iTrader: (6)

Got a pick of the crank and block damage.

Monk

iTrader: (3)

Good to see an update. You have some shitty luck buddy, but at least you have all the bits to make a whole engine.
I really like those mirrors. What brand?

TorqueZombie

iTrader: (6)

They are Lockhart motorcycle mirrors actually. It took me a lot of digging to find motorcycle mirrors that would rotate enough to look normal on a Miata. Thestalk angle on bikes being so different and all. Well that or they were made for cruisers and chrome lightning bolts or weirder. Link-> I will warn that the screws that hold the stalk to the mirror are made a bit soft, and the plate inside the mirror is not captive. Doable, but requires patience to take apart. It's not required to, yet I was curious and wanted to buff them. Also the plate that holds the ball on the stalk to the bottom of the mirror is a stamped piece. It WILL scratch the crap out of the ball. If anyone goes this route loosen the screws, get the mirror where you want it an tighten. Out the package they were pretty tight and the stalk bolt needed what seemed to be inappropriate amount of force.


The mounting plates are from Jass. Nice guy. I used the 7mm hole ones and had to bore the hole out just a hair to the the little peg bit on the mirror to sit flush. The bottom of the stalk have a raise bit that recesses into the original plates.

I went this route as I dont like the bracket on a bracket on a bracket on a.. (also cost)




I think I may Cerakote my VVT valvecover. No masking. It goes on way thinner than powder coat and masking the VVT solinoid will be a pain. Cerakote should let me get away with not masking and not mess up any clearances.

TorqueZombie

iTrader: (6)

Is this steel bracket really needed? Some brace I guess. Sorting through stuff.


Reason? Cause a pipe burst behind my garage. I guess I left the hose attached. Went out to wash this car and 30sec later water was rushing out my garage. No damage really, but had to replace a pipe and relocate half my garage. Yay.


Stay tuned for the "I don't feel like moving this crap 19 times and storing it" thread.


Airing out a wall like a boss.

Midtenn

iTrader: (15)

Masking the VVT pad is not to bad. I just used some 3M painters tape and a hobby knife. Just rough in the tape and trim to fit with the knife.

TorqueZombie

iTrader: (6)

Yep. Left it at the coaters and decided the cost of Cerakote was more than I'd like. No baller status for me. Powder it is.

TorqueZombie

iTrader: (6)

Crank from the glitter filled block is getting ground. Waiting on the specs to order parts. Looking at Supertech or Wiseco. This engine will be later going into my daily after the whammy motor shows. Place s are to learn to tune on this one. Then be a backup and we are thinking rallycross when we can. So basically NA, not turbo forever. Question is any reason I can't keep the boost low and run 10-1 for a short bit then swap over summer to the low comp motor? I know its not the reccomended thing, just curious on opinions. I'm thinking of getting a cheap OBX or used RB header to run the NB non boosted and then swap the motor and the header to NA. What is required for the NB to NA header length/depth? If I remember the NB header sits lower. Cut reweld to fit?

New temporary engine is VVT head to 94 block on SuperMiata engine mounts. Square top manifold and Skunk2 throttle. All will be swapped later to newer motor. Except the header if I go that route.

Midtenn

iTrader: (15)

I'll have my hands on brand new RB header for a 1.8 NA later today. I could also sell you my used one of the same style and I'll use the new one. Its out of the box and was installed, but was never ran. I think the difference between the NA and NB is the starting location of the cat and angle of the flanges. Also the EGR is in a different spot between the NA and NB. Shoot me a PM and I'll send you my number and we can get together sometime.

TorqueZombie

iTrader: (6)

PM'd, sorry just got a header in.

Small update: '94 block and VVT head are at the machine shop. Just a factory style rebuild and valve job. Really resisted the urge to dump money at it. I realized I just need an engine that runs. Should I have done studs, rods, and oil pump? Yes, but after getting stuffed by an old builder and another built engine in the "process" I held back. So I think I may have all I need here soon. Intake manifold is back from being sand blasted. Coolant hose needs a bracket. Some other odds and ends. It does seem that I am 80% ready to go and hit my spring break next Friday. Shop said he "should" be done by then. Somehow I know I'll be short a gasket.

Also just ordered a Nexus 7, so that's happening apparently.

Mobius

iTrader: (2)

Curly's Shade Tree Garage can build you an engine that runs. I got one in my car now. Recommended! No runs, no leaks, just glorious goodness.

And if somehow he stiffs you, let me know, I will go repossess the keg of beer in his kegerator. Win/win!

Shipping is of course involved. But when you don't know who to trust, shipping costs are irrelevant.

Edit: sorry for your pain, vendor fail sucks ***. Good to see forward progress though!

Midtenn

iTrader: (15)

Got your PM. If you need any help, let me know. I'm wrapping up my rebuild, so a lot of the details are still fresh.

TorqueZombie

iTrader: (6)

You wouldn't happen to have a ring gap filer?