When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I originally had planned to turbo my 1.8 vvt but after factoring all the costs I figured I'll get more performance and reliability from a J32A2 swap for close to the same price if I swap it my self.
No negativity in my thread please, constructive criticism is awesome but I don't want to hear about how I'll never finish my swap. Thanks
why to do this swap.
1. J32A2 are rated for 260hp stock.
2. Less things to wear and fail.
3. A much better platform for mods.
4.A bottom end with a 500-600hp limit.
5.the swap only adds 9lbs. Quoted from Minitek
6.JV6 engines are readily available and cheap.
Bumper off
Radiator out
Good by exhaust
I have already lined up an engine host and sold my 1.8
Engine Hoist secured
Engine is out!
Project status : Purchasing Minitek kit.
Called up minitek and reserved a full kit. I'll be paying on it on the next few months. They are letting me buy the kit in pieces, around $1500 at a time with the entire cost being close to $4k
Sourced a J32A2 for $700 shipped with less then 50k miles.
Minitek's kit seems pretty straightforward. I've done a B12 swap before so it should be pretty similar. The hardest part is probably going to be the plumbing and harness. I'm going to keep my PS and have some AC lines made. I'm also using a stock auto ecu to cut costs.
My aim is for is for 240rwhp ,and my deadline goal is May of next year. This will be a long project that I plan to work on a little at a time.
Predicted pricing
$3950 - JV6 kit clutch, flywheel, exhaust, subframe, trans adapter, oil pan
$0700 - J32A2 engine 50k miles shipped
$0500 - custom Odyssey ecu and wiring harness (modified for miata tach and cluster)
$0400 - misc hoses, belts, spark plugs, Thermostat, oil, rad fluid, PS fluid
______
$5550
-You want a Odyssey wiring harness, they are shorter and easier to wire in.
-Use the stock miata ECU mount for the new ecu for the JV6
-Cut a hole next to your heater core hoses for easy installation of the new harness.
-A 99- 01 TL auto ecu is needed to bypass limp mode and auto sensors.
-The J32A2 is one of the eaiser J swaps but others will work.
-There are 3 current shops that I know of that will modify the wiring harness for the miata gauge cluster.
(New York-RPM Systems , Georgia-MiniTek and I can't remember the last I'll add it later) expect 500 or so for the conversion
-The stock radiator can be used.
-A ring and pinion upgrade should be done to bring first gear back to a more useable range.
-The total weight gained from the swap is about 9lbs
-this is a direct bolt in kit, with the proper tools it should only take a couple of days to remove the existing engine and swap the J32A2.
-Wireing and plumping will generally be the longest part of the sway.
Last edited by Tekgnome; 03-11-2017 at 04:39 PM.
Reason: I
If you did supporting mods to the drive train these engines can easily handle over 500hp. The majority of fourms put the upper limits of the block at 550-600 crank hp.
With nitrous or an M90 supercharger it makes a mean platform.
a $200 ebay M90, and a $500 J32 adapter kit (you can make your self if you have access to a machine shop) with 5-6 psi (stock) of boost will net you around 400rwhp.
Bigger injectors, colder plugs, and 6-10 psi will take you to the 500rwhp mark. All that hp and you don't need to touch the bottom end of the block.
If you choose to leave it stock it will reliably make 240rwhp with out the extra complexity of a turbo or over stressing the block.
I don't think many people can put 200,000 miles on a turbo 1.8l putting out 240-260rwhp with out putting some work in to the bottom end . I'm pretty confident that a stock Honda v6 (J32A2) will make it well over 200k before giving out.
Originally Posted by ryansmoneypit
I feel like it's going to take another 2-3k. Prove us wrong.
That sounds like a challenge, I like it.
I'm expecting some extra but I went over almost everything. I'm currently putting together a check list for the swap.
I plan to share step by step on how the swap goes, pictures, invoices, and unexpected costs.
One of the biggest cost factor will be the engine. If I have to replace gaskets, pump, Ect those add up very quickly.
Just seems like for the cost, there are better engine options. You are talking all this HP, but you still need to come up with drivetrain upgrades to support them. I have always wanted to do a V6 swap on a miata, i think it would be a great combo. However i never felt the J series was the right way to go.
Anyways, i will stop shitting in your thread. So long as it makes you happy, it doesnt matter what i think. Rock on with it and keep us updated!
Just seems like for the cost, there are better engine options. You are talking all this HP, but you still need to come up with drivetrain upgrades to support them. I have always wanted to do a V6 swap on a miata, i think it would be a great combo. However i never felt the J series was the right way to go.
Anyways, i will stop shitting in your thread. So long as it makes you happy, it doesnt matter what i think. Rock on with it and keep us updated!
Please, I'm all for constructive criticism.
What V6 would you havehave swapped?
I plan to keep the stock hp at 240rwhp I don't think I'll have to worry about my drive train. Ive got a 1.8 diff so I doubt I'll hurt it. My 5 speed might start crying if I hook the hell out of it.
FM makes 400hp rated axles and you'll definitely want an Lsd and 6 speed if you supercharge the v6 and plan to make 400+hp. A better drive Shaft or a drive Shaft safety housing might me a good idea.
In my opinion, the only engine swap I would do while keeping the factory drivetrain is the K swap. It's 150 lbs lighter than the J swap, and is still capable of being built enough to break the drivetrain. If I did a V6 it would be an LFX, but that's obviously a lot more money than a J swap.
Either way, any engine swap that makes good power and sounds good is cool. If you can keep it under $7-8 grand and it's reliable, sweet!
In my opinion, the only engine swap I would do while keeping the factory drivetrain is the K swap. It's 150 lbs lighter than the J swap, and is still capable of being built enough to break the drivetrain. If I did a V6 it would be an LFX, but that's obviously a lot more money than a J swap.
Either way, any engine swap that makes good power and sounds good is cool. If you can keep it under $7-8 grand and it's reliable, sweet!
I considered a K swap, but I ultimately decided against it for a couple of reasons. The Swap Kit is more expensive, and I'd have to spend a decent amount of money modifying a K to make the same hp that a stock J32A2 makes.
That and I really really want the sound of a v6.
I like the K series though, in my opinion mazda should have shipped these cars from the factory with a similar engine.
I'm guessing that in reality I'll spend 6k on the swap. I don't think I missed much. I'm not counting mods like suspension, tires, ect
Down the line I could spend $2500 and make 300rwhp pretty easy. AEM ECU+M90+mounting kit+6 speed transmission.
For an additional $2000 on top of that I could put down 450
Axles, drive Shaft, ring and pinion, M90 under drive pully, water meth kit.
I'm not sure I'd like 450hp in my miata, it sound dangerous and more than I'll ever need on a weekend cruise.
I'd be more than happy with 300hp so I might try to make that my goal one day but I'd like to see how a 240rwhp v6 feels first.
Ultimately I have a long journey ahead with a lot of work to do.
So I have a detailed spreadsheet for this swap and pricewise you are looking at least at 7k unless u can weld up a lot of parts yourself. The caveat to this build in my opinion are the following: oil pan is just over 3 in from ground, subframe has a history of breaking in race applications, the intake design is costly unless u cut open your hood, the exhaust headers also have been commonly thrown out and redone.
Additionally you have to move steering rack. A lot of people here will agree that they disagree with that decision. On the facebook page you can buy a pnp harness from a vendor no need to pay a shop to do it. You also need a starter unless that came with your engine. Check the facebook page for internally swap as Paul Weibe i believe is looking to do that.
So I have a detailed spreadsheet for this swap and pricewise you are looking at least at 7k unless u can weld up a lot of parts yourself. The caveat to this build in my opinion are the following: oil pan is just over 3 in from ground, subframe has a history of breaking in race applications, the intake design is costly unless u cut open your hood, the exhaust headers also have been commonly thrown out and redone.
I'm cutting a hole in my hood.
My paints fucked any ways, and I'd rather save the time and money to weld it or have it welded.
I'm buying a JV6 kit from minitek, so the headers will be on them.
I'm also not planning to race it but I'll look in to welding reinforcements to the subframe. I'll question minitek and ask them about the possibility of it failing.
I'd love to see any spreadsheets and any advice on the swap.
Additionally you have to move steering rack. A lot of people here will agree that they disagree with that decision. On the facebook page you can buy a pnp harness from a vendor no need to pay a shop to do it. You also need a starter unless that came with your engine. Check the facebook page for internally swap as Paul Weibe i believe is looking to do that.
Do you have a link to the wiring harness? That would be a huge help! It's basically my only fear with the swap.
The kit I'm buying from minitek comes with a starter.
I'm indifferent with moving the rack , if it has to be done so be it but I thought that the new sub frame from minitek clears it? They don't mention having to move it in there installation pdf?
Do you have a link to the wiring harness? That would be a huge help! It's basically my only fear with the swap.
The kit I'm buying from minitek comes with a starter.
I'm indifferent with moving the rack , if it has to be done so be it but I thought that the new sub frame from minitek clears it? They don't mention having to move it in there installation pdf?
I'll give them a call up later today .
You need to read up on this before you so it. I almost did it, but for the aforementioned reasons I didnt. Also remember you wont be able to do it like a TRUBO where you can install ecu, tune, install injectors, tune, then install turbo, tune. You will have to do all at once and then cross your fingers. I am doing a built engine and turbo for less than your cost. HALF AS MUCH.
You need to read up on this before you so it. I almost did it, but for the aforementioned reasons I didnt. Also remember you wont be able to do it like a TRUBO where you can install ecu, tune, install injectors, tune, then install turbo, tune. You will have to do all at once and then cross your fingers. I am doing a built engine and turbo for less than your cost. HALF AS MUCH.
That's not normal though is it? What are you starting out with? The MT wisdom is that you need 3-4k at the minimum to do things right. Half of the OP's cost would put you in the sub 3k range.
02-21-2017, 08:06 PM
V6 swapped Mx5 Project (to be named)
-1
